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Maintenance & Repairs - October 2006

[Selected]: All categories Cars & Transportation Maintenance & Repairs

2006-10-17 16:57:31 · 6 answers · asked by navymom2 2

I unhooked the ABS wire from the pass side rear wheel. It no longer locks up on me, but of course ABS light is still on. Has not locked up since I disconnected it. This side also has a leaking rear brake cylinder. Is that enuf to cause the ABS to go goofy? Or is it a sensor? what can be cleaned or fixed before a new part has to be built. Dealer will scan if I come with ABS light on, but wants $37.50 just to hook up scanner. Of course, I would re-connect terminal wire to rear first. Advise? thanks I have to get this fixed before winter, or I will be sideways alot of the time !!!!

2006-10-17 16:53:32 · 6 answers · asked by mombo323 2

increasing horsepower

2006-10-17 16:51:44 · 2 answers · asked by kevin 1

my 88 chevy 1/2 ton, 2wd, long bed seems to be missing third gear. It will shift normal from first to second but when the rpm's get to where third should be, it just keeps reving up and wont grab. If i get up to about 60-65 in second it will skip third and go to o/d if im lucky. Is this common? Should it be replaced? Does it need tranny fluid to stop this? Or does it need to be drained and filled with new fluid and filter?

2006-10-17 16:47:17 · 3 answers · asked by tony4321_1 1

it seems to been green fluid so i thinkk engine coolant but there is still coolant in the tank..i heard somethin about an overflow tube...could that be it?

2006-10-17 16:16:28 · 10 answers · asked by Dumb Genius 1

I haver checked the transmission fluid, and reset the computer system on the car. Still when I take off from a stop. It doesn't want to shift from 1st gear. And after it does it will shift fine. Also sometimes it will shift perfectly with no problems at all. Think it could be the transmission or what? Any suggestions? BTW its a 97' Olds Cutlass Supreme.

2006-10-17 16:11:35 · 10 answers · asked by Scotty W 2

Never had a problem with my Saturn before but suddenly am having trouble getting the car to shift out of park. I've tried wiggling the gear shift, steering wheel, etc. but have found the only think that works (and it may be a fluke) is pumping the brake a few times. I've been told there is possible a sensor that is going bad. Anyone else had this problem or heard of it?

2006-10-17 15:47:48 · 4 answers · asked by Red 1

I have a '98 Oldsmobile Cutlass...and after I drive for over 30 minutes it starts making this kind of electrical whirring noise and it's driving me crazy...the only way to block it out is to turn up the radio. What is it and how do I fix it...is there anything I can do? It sounds really bad...my friends kinda worry when we're riding around and it starts doing that...they think we're going to breakdown. HELP!!!

2006-10-17 15:43:57 · 4 answers · asked by no one 2

We have a 99 ford escort with about 130,000 miles on it. We do the regualr matinence and use it mainly for our second car..the one to do local errands and the like in. We are hoping to get another 18 to 24 months out of it (so probaly another 10,000 miles if that). We had it checked today at a local garage because we were pretty sure there was an issue with the muffler. We were told that the muffler had come loose where it meets the engine and would need to have that connector (not sure on the exact term) replace at a cost of about $165. However, they said we need to have the exhaust system replaced in the next 6 months and to that gave us an estimate of $770. Neither my husband or I are car people and the person we usually ask about this is out of the country and won't be able to respond for several days. Plus, we aren't sure it is worth sinking that money into the car. Any ideas or thoughts would be helpful!

2006-10-17 15:42:52 · 9 answers · asked by Annie 6

Someone told me they saw an ad for special compound that you buff into the paint to cover or make scratches unnoticable.
Any heard of it?
Thanks.

2006-10-17 15:41:01 · 5 answers · asked by JDH 1

Ok, im bored and already had this done about 3 yrs ago, but am getting opinions, best answer that I see fit will get the dimer points.


Ok, I bring my 2001 chevy silverado in cuz it just stopped and I knew it was a expensive fix. The knock sensor which is under the intake manifold went out, I also got the intake fuel pump fixed and an online fuel filter put on. All this I could do myself but am a painter in middle of summer (NO TIME).
Dealer wants about $1,100-1500.00 to fix, found local mechanic for $740.00. Im not mad about this but when I left after paying cash, I went to my shop went over the bill 3 days later cuz I was showing a buddy on how damned expensive it was.
Now I run pure synthetic oil in my truck and it takes 6.5 quarts at $9.50 a quart and a $6.00 oil filter.
My bill had a quart of oil $2.00 and washer fluid $2.00 neither of which I got the rest of. I just changed my oil 1500 miles ago, oil I run goes 35,000 miles and you change the filter every 5K.

2006-10-17 15:31:15 · 6 answers · asked by retisin2002 4

OK, now i've been doing my own car maintenance for a few years now, thought I had the basics down pat. Difference is, coming up for the first major milestone (ignoring 5000 mile oil change due to "extreme" i.e. intra-urban conditions) since I treated "new" car (and myself) to a dealer service, i've discovered the service book lists a great number of things to look for compared to what i thought was the norm, and it's making my head swim trying to follow down all the columns for all the different models/engines at different mileages...
Roughly what would the experienced spanners out there reccomend I do for a 10000 mile self service? Past oil, filter, airbox, plugs/leads, battery/fluid levels checks, belts, making sure tyres/wheelnuts are OK & a decent scout around the less commonly seen bits of the body?

(esp. how exactly would you check the front disc/rear drum brakes, previously i've just waited til they squealed/juddered... oops :)

Cheers... you'll help keep a guy safe!
MP

2006-10-17 15:24:18 · 4 answers · asked by markp 4

Just tonight, as I was driving home from work, when I put on my right blinker, the light comes on, and the right-facing arrow lights on my dash panel, but neither the front light, back light, or my dash light blink. They still illuminate, and I suppose if I teetered my switch on and off repeatedly when making a right turn, it would seem to blink. It happened just tonight; and on a drive. When the trip started, my right blinker worked. What happened? What broke? Can I buy a replacement at my local Advance Autoparts?
(Think it had anything to do with the rain on the drive?)

2006-10-17 15:23:14 · 11 answers · asked by Anonymous

I noticed about a week ago that my car (1988 BMW 735i) overheats at an idle, but cools very quickly when I hit the accelorator pedal. I dont have to be moving, but when I use the gas pedal it cools within about 10 seconds. I opened the hood, and noticed that the a/c condensor froze up and that belt was not spinning. Thinking that this was my problem, and that it was just slowing the fan, I cut the belt to the a/c condensor. This did not help. Car still overheats at and idle. Today I went to work, and when I got to the parkinglot my car spewed all the coolant, and my windows fogged up. I am thinking that it is the heater core, but was wondering if I was right for one, but also if the two problems were related, and how to fix the first problem. I do not know why the car over heats, but the fan still spins at idle I have checked this. Thank you for any answers or help with my problem.

2006-10-17 15:16:45 · 14 answers · asked by Voodoo 1

well i noguht the compressor i installed it pefrectly and everythign then i went to put air in the tire (it was low) i turned my car off when i put air in the tire and after that i tried turning the car on and all i heard was a click it wasnt the battery becuase we tried jumping it and the battery was good but we noticed wthe click was coming from the lil sillanoid (sp) and is it just that or wat

2006-10-17 15:16:07 · 4 answers · asked by Anonymous

Ok. i have a legacy 1200 watt anp hooked to 2 sony 12's. My questions is why did my amp quit having sound come, out when it will still turn on? Before i smacked the amp a couple times and it would work for about 15 seconds and quit. I did this about three times and gave up. Did i possibly burn out the rca inputs on the amp or something else wrong,. I opend the amp and nothing is burnt or smelled burnt. It can't be a ground because the amp would not turn on without it.

2006-10-17 15:15:29 · 2 answers · asked by tony4321_1 1

My friend has a 2001 Honda prelude. On her way to work this morning the check engine light came on. She took it to a certified honda mechanic / dealership to have it checked out. A few hours later they called her and said it was fixed and she went and got it. They told her " See it all the time. the fuel tank lid was'nt on correctly and it raises heck with the fuel injection." charged her $25.00 for reading her codes and sent her packing. She told me and I was kinda floored that they tried that and that she bought it. My question is; Is there any way possible that the fuel cap would cause that light to come on? I swear this is serious and not a joke it really happened.

2006-10-17 15:10:04 · 10 answers · asked by michael N 1

I know that butter is much better for the finish than wax but I am not sure how often I need to apply it to get maximum protection.

2006-10-17 15:01:06 · 7 answers · asked by Anonymous

2006-10-17 14:28:14 · 7 answers · asked by Steve J 2

2006-10-17 13:51:22 · 5 answers · asked by Phenomenon 1

Background info: 1998 Pontiac Grand Am. When knob is turned from OFF to any other position the A/C or Heat comes on. The fan speed control knob is a separate knob and it does not have it's own OFF setting-just low-to-high variable settings so the turning the airflow position switch from OFF to any other setting causes the air to flow automatically.
The Problem: Turning this system on causes all of the dash indicator lights to come on(Oil,Engine,Brake,etc.). Additionally, the gear shifter will not come out of the Park position. The person who own's the car has been replacing a '20' fuse in the under-the-hood fuse box. The fuse that is being burned and replaced everytime this happens is the center, aft-most fuse-(furthest from the bumber,closest to the driver, middle fuse of 3 fuses on that aft-most row). OBD-II codes showing are: P- 753 & 758(shift solenoid 'A' & 'B' circuit electrical), 740-I have this one covered, 1665-n/a,1676-n/a, & 1860- TCC PWM solenoid CKT electrical. pls help.

2006-10-17 13:50:25 · 1 answers · asked by drapper25 2

which way does the rod for the kickdown transmission linkage that is parallel vertically to the engine, move when engauged at full throttle, up or down?also where can i get the rest of the linkage for the kickdown? the linkage on my engine stops at the top of the engine in the back after it runs up the back of the engine.. it is missing the rest of it that runs parallel to the top and across to hook up to the carb

2006-10-17 13:49:50 · 4 answers · asked by John M 2

Delivering pizza? I doubt it. I know it's fun to have one but what about making $ with it?

2006-10-17 13:23:36 · 6 answers · asked by orchard_littlejoe 2

it just started up a couple days ago and i've only driven it 3 miles since then. so there shouldnt be any horrible damage. i'd rather put the time and money for one piston than not having a car before bootcamp.

2006-10-17 12:50:33 · 6 answers · asked by descarcida 1

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