Maintenance & Repairs - June 2007

I have renters who left burn marks from embers from the fireplace on my beautiful oak floor. The burns are into the wood, and not just on the surface. How long would it take for the embers to be on the floor to cause this kind of damage. I would say they were there at least a 30 seconds or longer to do this kind of damage. The renters are saying it happened as soon as the embers landed on the floor. That hard for me to believe.Does anyone have an idea?

2007-06-26 11:53:54 · 2 answers · asked by kim 2

2007-06-26 11:28:34 · 5 answers · asked by Anonymous

I have a solenoid valve just like this http://www.globalspec.com/ImageRepository/ProductAreaImages/2007/4/903/large.jpg and its rated 120 VAC/26VA (3 prongs, one for ground) . I also have a horizontal level switch for liquid like this http://germes-online.com/direct/dbimage/50279527/Level_Switch.jpg with rating 120 VAC/0.28 A (the switch will connect when the water level reach the target) normally open.

How can I wire them so that when the level reached the valve will close and water will not flow into the tank? The switch is inside the tank and the valve connecting the pipe for feed water. Thanks

2007-06-26 10:12:01 · 3 answers · asked by coza b 2

It says there are 2 ways to install it on the outside of the box but only gives instructions on the inside to install it with the down rod. I want it so it is close to the ceiling b/c our ceilings aren't very high.

2007-06-26 10:01:04 · 3 answers · asked by Anonymous

I ordered a patio screen door from Home Depot & can't figure out how to adjust it on the track. The old one had a screw on each side at the bottom & the new does not have this & no instructions. There seems to be screws in side the frame part. One at the bottom & one at the top on each side. How do you adjust these so the screen door will slide properly.

2007-06-26 10:00:49 · 2 answers · asked by J.J. 1

i want seal driveway with a product that will last in cold and hot weather that will give a good lasting life

2007-06-26 09:53:49 · 4 answers · asked by jr_lundy 2

If so, what's the best way to do it?

2007-06-26 09:46:57 · 5 answers · asked by Rosebee 4

2007-06-26 09:14:35 · 4 answers · asked by David R 2

the lawn tractor is a yardman hydrostatic 18 hp. briggs and straton. when starting it I raise the deck but the blades still turn.

2007-06-26 08:30:06 · 2 answers · asked by Freddy W 2

I want to put the condenser for my central air conditioning unit underneath my deck. What is the minimum amount of clearance that I need from the top of the unit to the bottom of the deck?

2007-06-26 08:19:28 · 3 answers · asked by jonyklein 1

how do you prime a water well????...please help

2007-06-26 08:17:41 · 3 answers · asked by Lacie 1

Hi,
I replaced my motor coupler a few weeks ago and since then I've washed about 5 loads of clothing. Well yesterday, the washer stop agitating and spinning again. It doesn't make that awful loud buzzing noise like it did the first time when the motor coupler broke, so I'm wondering now if it's something else that broke. I can hear the motor running, I just haven't taken it apart yet to see if it's the coupler again. Any other causes for the washer not agitating or spinning? I HOPE it's the motor coupler again cuz that's a cheap fix, but since it's not making that buzzing humming noise like the first time it broke, I"m afraid it might be something else :(

2007-06-26 08:14:39 · 5 answers · asked by raccyraccy 1

The tank that holds the water from the dehumidifier is cracked. The whole drain plug is cracked. I checked on getting a new plastic tank but they want $42, which I think is absurd for a cheap plastic tank., Any suggestions? I tried gorrila glue but it was not strong enough. It seemed to hold the water back but when I fiddled with it the whole thing cracked again.

2007-06-26 08:07:47 · 2 answers · asked by J B 2

cement is slanting towards the back of my steps and I want to raise it enough to either level it out or slant it away from the house because rainwater is leaking into the basement.
Too hard for me to break up the old stuff, as I*m not physically able to do that.

2007-06-26 08:05:15 · 6 answers · asked by llittle mama 6

2007-06-26 07:55:29 · 5 answers · asked by Jerry F 1

I know it is possible to have one master key that will unlock 2000 different locks, but is the opposite possible. Can I get a "master lock" made?

2007-06-26 07:51:49 · 8 answers · asked by Christine U 1

Basically, the A/C unit where I live is not working. When it decides to turn on, it will turn on for about 15 seconds, then cut off, then turn on, off, on...for about two minutes. Then it won't work for awhile. Then when it gets too hot inside, it will repeat the above. My question is...do you think this is a thermostat problem (loose wiring connection) or do you think this is a problem with the actual unit or compressor (freezing over)?

2007-06-26 07:45:56 · 5 answers · asked by zzzzzzzzz27 3

2007-06-26 07:34:25 · 4 answers · asked by Anonymous

I have the old belt off but can't figure out how to get the new belt around the clutch.

2007-06-26 07:29:25 · 3 answers · asked by jw 1

Is it legal to do on your own? If not, where can you find someone that would install them without charging a crazy amount like the heating/air companies? Do workers of these companies moonlight to make extra money? Thanks

2007-06-26 07:11:46 · 9 answers · asked by ramswin1 1

Is that right? Can that happen, or am I just being taken?

My house is just under 4 years old, and on Sunday the air wasn't cooling, except at night. It hovered around 83 degrees, then it got hotter during the day.

The repair guy put some more freon in there for "temporary cooling", but I wonder if it just needed freon to begin with and that's why it froze up. He said that the freon will leak out again, and it will get hot again in the next few days or whatever. He said it won't hold a charge until the coil is replaced.

I don't know much about AC's--it is a 3 ton unit.

Should I spend $1500 to have the coil replaced, or should I pay another $65 to have someone else see if the coil truly is bad?

Your opinion is appreciated! :)

2007-06-26 06:41:42 · 7 answers · asked by soylentgreen 2

It is 10 years old. From time to time over the years we notice the food getting warm and discover the fan stopped.
Starting it by hand it will run and then apparently continue to run okay. It seems like it speeds up and slows down, too when you open the door or put the back cover tightly on.
We have cleaned thoroughly under the refrigerator and the entire compressor/fan area. The fan motor is sealed (no oil hole that i could see, anyway) i put a little oil around the shaft.
Is the fan faulty, or is there some other control sensor or something regulating the speed and operation of the fan?
I can easily replace the fan, but if it is controlled by some other electronic part or something thats malfunctioning i'd rather buy a new refrigerator.
What should i do?

2007-06-26 06:17:39 · 6 answers · asked by Lane 4

I believe a brush would drip when painting overhead and am concerned about getting good coverage on the ridged surface. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

2007-06-26 05:55:00 · 4 answers · asked by seashore333 2

Air coming out of vents is 20 degrees lower than outside air. Thermostat set at 71. Temp in house is bouncing between 74 and 75. Outside temp is 90. We've never had problems before this year. Had a freon charge. Turned it on yesterday evening. Temp was 86 in house. Fan outside has been running for 16 hours. Changed filter. Cleaned coils. What could be wrong? Thanks in advance!

2007-06-26 05:39:31 · 7 answers · asked by Tara 1

2007-06-26 04:45:51 · 4 answers · asked by Anonymous

2007-06-26 04:37:32 · 3 answers · asked by bernard c 2

2007-06-26 04:27:20 · 3 answers · asked by fogguider 1

2007-06-26 04:01:15 · 2 answers · asked by sandi 1

2007-06-26 03:45:01 · 3 answers · asked by mgrnovi 2

I just wanted to know if I could use a solution like CLR or Liquid Scale. I used Liquid Scale once in the lines when I moved into the house, but did not want to overdo it too much and end up eating a hole in the line. This was 9 months ago. Would it be safe to try again? I have very low water pressure on the HOT only and can get some rust sediment to come out when I "bang the pipes" at the main line from the hot water heater, with a rubber mallet. I'm afraid that if I do too much I will just cause a break somewhere in the piping where rust has built up and I will have to repipe it all, which would be costly on a number of levels. I do not have a basement or crawl space, so the pipes are in the walls throughout. Any thoughts? Tips? Help... I need some tricks of the trade.

2007-06-26 03:36:24 · 3 answers · asked by iizeddicusrahlii 2