Maintenance & Repairs - August 2007

I've tried to unscrew it but it didn't work

2007-08-18 16:12:36 · 2 answers · asked by Myles G 2

For example: Mix 2 qts, of 5W-30 with 3 qts. of 10W-40. What will be the end result in the viscosity of the mixture. Why would I want to do this> Because I have too many of each. As regards to synthetics, the oil manufacturers stated that it's OK to mix synthetics with pertroleum based oils. After all the semi-synthetics such as the Syntec Blend is such type oil.

2007-08-18 16:11:51 · 8 answers · asked by Don S 5

can a 302 be put in my car and what all would i have to do to put it in and still be safe to drive: no twisting or any other drive line and suspension damage.

2007-08-18 16:09:28 · 4 answers · asked by Mikl 1

For a number of years, the front driver's side power window has not worked. In addition, the right rear window has not worked since we bought it. We bought the car from a dealer with 90,000+ miles on it, and they refused to fix it, instead they just disconnected the power to it, and propped it up since it died while partially down. A mechanic once estimated it to be about $300 to fix one window.

My question is...is replacing the motor as hard as it sounds? Obviously it's quite a pain only having 2 operational windows, so I'd like to fix them myself. But when the dealer refuses to fix it, and it would cost $300 to fix, that says something. Anyone know how difficult it is? Any advice to make it easier? Thanks

2007-08-18 16:06:38 · 3 answers · asked by Brad342 2

i have used maguiars waxes i am looking for high gloss wet look on my car the paint on my car is flawless do u know how to gain that super high gloss wet look WHAT CAN I DO HELP ME

2007-08-18 16:02:23 · 5 answers · asked by Anonymous

OK heres the deal the transmission cooler that is built in radiator went bad, so I bought a after market transmission cooler from the parts store. It is the on one my van calls for but when you read the directions that come with it it says you can use this with your radiator to provide superior cooling for the transmission. I want to hook up just the cooler and I am going to install it all the way in the front on the AC condenser for 100% efficiency like the instructions said. Do you think being that I only use the van to putt around town and do not tow anything EVER that the cooler by itself will be enough cooling power for my transmission??? The van is a Chevy Lumina APV with a 3.1L engine the cooler is 3/4" x 5" x 12-3/4"

2007-08-18 15:59:58 · 5 answers · asked by Kevin S 2

2007-08-18 15:53:37 · 4 answers · asked by iafanotoni 1

its a 96 saturn, its a manual, dual overhead cam 4 cld, when i push in the clutch and the rpms go down the high pitched noise goes to a lower pitch then when i let the clutch out and push the gas it gets higher making it sound like a siren, when i first heard it i thought it was a cop... ne way i just replaced the clutch pressure plate and bearing, and the slave to the clutch.. about 2000 miles ago and its been fine.. as far as funtional and operational theres nothing wrong but ive come to find out that sounds are for a reason and if its making a noise its trying to tell me something... so what is that something..

2007-08-18 15:46:46 · 4 answers · asked by ryan p 1

Mine has gone bad in my 98 civic and I don't have the money to fix it right now. Will it ruin my engine if I don't have it fixed right away?

2007-08-18 15:23:44 · 10 answers · asked by susan_112147 1

Where would be a good place to get an old muscle car to restore? i've been hearing junk yards but are there any other places i might look?

2007-08-18 15:21:17 · 6 answers · asked by Greg G 1

2007-08-18 15:19:18 · 5 answers · asked by K20Z3 1

I have a 1995 Buick Regal and I have a problem with it

well today i was driving and all of a sudden it felt like the transmission just blew. No matter how hard i pushed the gas pedal the car just rolled like at 5 mph. I stopped and I then pulled it to the side. I turned it off and waited like 5 min. Then I turned it on and it drove me a coulple of blocks and i parked. I later in the day put some new transmission fluid in and then after that it drove pretty well. (the fluid was pretty low before i put some in)

It had a history of the transmission "slipping" on me but this is the first time that this happened.

I know the obvious answer is see a mechanic but i wanna know what could possibly be wrong with it and if there is anyway I can fix it myself and how much it would cost because I have to save up some money to payt for this all.

2007-08-18 15:02:29 · 17 answers · asked by erickostonmg 1

I managed to find two valves. The first valve was in the front side closer to the bumper. However, the recharge hose wouldn't fit. On the other hand, when I attached the recharge hose to the nozzle in the back on the passenger side, the pressure readings kept oscillating back and forth between low and high.

Just to note, I had turned on the engine and turned on the cooler to Max A/C like the directions on the can told me.

Thanks

2007-08-18 14:56:49 · 5 answers · asked by Poya G 1

The radiator fan isn't working, we've replaced it and checked the fuses for it, any other ideas?

Also, does the radiator on the taurus self purge air or no? Thanks.

2007-08-18 14:49:43 · 3 answers · asked by inmyheadx2 1

We had a little leak (okay, puddle) in our driveway and we have small children who play there. The car shop is taking care of the car problem, but what is the best way to clean up the puddle in the driveway so that it's both safe for the children to play there and environmentally responsible?

2007-08-18 14:27:04 · 4 answers · asked by abzolut 3

Got a 99 Windstar, the A/C is not very cold and I suspect the Air Coolant is all used up, seen some kits that attach to the A/C unit and refills them anyone ever used them before? and do they work?

2007-08-18 14:26:08 · 7 answers · asked by Anonymous

I it very hard to change the transmission fluid on my jeep? I try to work on everything that I can (oil change, brakes, tires etc.) I have never tried to change transmission oil and am wondering if I should pay someone else or try it myself. I just turned 65,000 miles and believe it is dur. Also is there any thing else that I should check or service at this milage?

2007-08-18 14:14:22 · 4 answers · asked by Helo60 2

2007-08-18 14:01:06 · 4 answers · asked by Anonymous

here are the specifics: it sat in a field for 15 years (or so the owner says); it has surface rust on almost all of it - the rust is solid, though (my pocket knife didn't plunge into the metal as i knocked it on different areas); it is white; has what owner says is a 393 (probably stock); interior has to be TOTALLY redone (from carpet & headliner to dash, gear shifter (his & hers)), guages, seats - everything; body is fairly straight; owner says that the engine turns over; didn't read odometer and it has two flat tires.

What would a person throw into rebuilding this car? Would you start from the ground and go up? Are parts easy to find for antique GTOs?

I hardly think he'll get $10k; I looked on eBay and found a running, fully operable 67 GTO for around $6k (nothing fancy).

Thanks for any tips/advice.

2007-08-18 13:32:37 · 5 answers · asked by tlc289 4

2007-08-18 13:28:12 · 6 answers · asked by Amina R 1

i noticedon my 88 f150 my brake master cyl. was leaking, also noticed i was loosing brake pressure over a few days time, and the brake light came on and the i checked the emergency brake was OFF.i noticed the leak was where the cylinder mounted to the brake booster.so i put a new one on it and it still leaks.why and where is leaking from,even on the new master cylinder.

2007-08-18 13:12:00 · 4 answers · asked by josh_ford_289 1

2007-08-18 12:57:17 · 5 answers · asked by Anonymous

I was going over a bump in the road a few weeks ago and the speedometer started jumping around. Immediately after it went down to about 20km/h but increased slowly with the speed of the car which would have been about 60km/h....
Now when I turn the key into the ON posistion but don't start the engine, the speedometer goes up to about 25km/h and sits there then when I start moving (slowly) it goes up to 60km/h and sits there. When braking, the speedometer needle decreases (a bit later though) back down to about 20km/h. I disconnected a lead (the only lead) at the rear of the gearbox/diff as its a 4wd and the speedo still goes up to 20km/h and sits there.

Anyone got any quick fix for this as i don't want to fork out 500 for a instrument cluster........

2007-08-18 11:35:43 · 3 answers · asked by tb7896 3

I have been searching for such a device all my life and have been DISGUSTED with the junk sold at auto parts stores and home improvement stores.

I am looking for one that can fit to standard zerks and also various sized injection needles, and have enough pump pressure to force grease through very small needles so I can easily slip past the neoprene seals on some bearings to refresh their lubrication.

Your suggestions will be appreciated.

2007-08-18 10:59:57 · 1 answers · asked by Saturn 5 4

One of my car doors is a darker color than the rest of the car. I want to spray paint to door to match. What should I do?

2007-08-18 10:54:07 · 7 answers · asked by Anonymous

Looking for a crank pulley and harmonic balancer for a 86 mazda B2000 pickup. 4 cy, gas engine

2007-08-18 10:53:24 · 5 answers · asked by Bob S 5

how do U flush a radiator in a car??Help asap living in Nevada and it's too hot for the car to be hot too!!! Thanks

2007-08-18 10:52:59 · 2 answers · asked by shdema 3

Ok look heres the problem I need an expert :P
Ok first the battery is draining rapidly. The alternator is good the battery is good. I can jump it it runs then it dies 2 minutes later.So I bust out the multimeter: + to - its 12.0 - to Alternator is 12.0. So then I disconnected the -, ok so - on the battery to the - cable is 11.9. So is there power running on the - cable ?

Next I did this hooked the - back to the battery then I ran the - on the multimeter to the chasi of the car (like the side of it the engine different metal areas) and i'm getting a .1 reading on the multimeter. Some areas it wont do it some it will.

Now the odd thing is the - on the battery to the - cable I was getting 11.8 - 11.9 and now with the - cable hooked to the battery and the multimeter - to the battery and + to a chasi part i'm getting .1?

Sorry if this is hard to understand BUT PLEASE help its driving me nuts!

2007-08-18 10:46:10 · 5 answers · asked by Robi A 1

Standard car battery (PowerVolt - an Interstate Brand). Not deep cycling or gel or anything other than a run of the mill car battery. It has water in cells.

Headlights were left on - for like weeks. I suppose they weren't putting out any light after some number of hours, but the lights were left in the on position.

It is used for off-road activities, and had been left sitting with the lights 'on' for at least a week.

It can be jump-started, though.

The battery is about a year old - if that makes any difference.


The question:

(I know there are no absolutes, but there are 99% likelihoods).

Is the battery most like completely dead / history / toast / past-tense or might it be re-chargeable ?

What are the odds of each, in your estimation ?

Thanks.

2007-08-18 10:30:12 · 9 answers · asked by roland_reardon 2

P235 75R15
WHITEWALL UNDER 3"
TO GO ON CLASSIC GATSBY

2007-08-18 10:14:03 · 5 answers · asked by sofun 4