Sport Climbing?

Question

Me and a couple of mates are hoping to go to Chamonix for a couple of days of sport climbing (we know too little about Lead, and have none of the requireed equipment). However my dad is very concerned about us going unsupervised (I am 16 turning 17 before the trip) if we are climbing a style we are not used too. Only top roping experience. We are all around 5c to 6a in grades (british - i think you make that 6c -7a in european grades...) at the mo which is pretty good I would say. So anyone got any info on sport climbing and any convincing argument I can use to persuade him!?!? I have gone through the obvious ones, and I respect his concern, but it is a little annoying!

i am thinking of sport climbing, not lead climbing... I can easily get a bit of practise in where I live at local outcrops etc... I am aware that lead climbing would be very stupid considering I know so little about it!

Answer 1

To clarify, sport leading is still considered leading.

Definately learn leading locally before going on a trip.
If the climbs are under 30m, then thats one thing. Learn how to lead safely and go on the trip. Someone should teach you about : why you don't back-clip, gates facing away from direction leader is moving, belayer's stance/ distance from the wall, belaying technique with different devices, clipping techniques, assessing and rigging fixed belay stations/rappel stations, and belaying from above. And you can't learn how to do all that in a gym!

If they are over that height, then you will need additional knowledge. For example, do you know what to do if the leader falls and is injured when he is almost at the end of a full rope length pitch? I didn't think so...Don't get in over your head, which is easy to do when you're young and lacking knowledge. Knowing when to back off is one of the hardest things, and in your case you need to make a judgement call before even taking the trip, let alone climbing. Accidents tend to start with a bad decision, and go south from there

You should hire a guide, and you would still be able to lead (and your dad would like it better). Or maybe consider a top-roping trip, and to scope out bigger climbs you'd like to do next year. That should give you enough time to read, understand and practice the climbing sections in "The Freedom of the Hills". RESPONSIBLE CLIMBERS READ LOTS!!!

Cheers!

Answer 2

I am sorry to say but I agree with your dad. My husband and I climbed for years and if you have never led a route then going an this trip is not a good idea. You really need some experience in doing this before heading off on your own. Is there a gym near you that you can have someone work with you a few times before your trip. You are not an experienced climber if you cannot lead a route and an inexperienced climber is putting himself in danger. I for one would never allow my child to go climbing alone until he/she is more experienced than you. It would not take that long to find someone to show you how to do this properly and instruct you on the proper equipment.

The poster below is correct any route you sport climb has to be led first in order for anyone else to climb it unless you top rope. You only have 3 choices top-rope, learn to lead, or take a more experenced climber with you........I suggest you learn to lead it will give you more freedom in the areas you climb and who you go with. Plus if you take a minute to learn to lead from a more experenced climber that person will have no problem talking with your dad about your abilites thus helping him to let you go on your trip.

Answer 3

That sounds like a wonderful trip to me. I just started sport climbing, but you should know that most of the sport routes are pretty difficult and that someone has to climb up to the first bolt, and the next one, and so on. So the first climb on any route is a lead climb. I learned the hard way which was on the rock and I did some things the hard way--find someone who can tell you how to set up the ropes to make it easier for you when you start.

Answer 4

This is a great question. I actually did downclimb the first couple of times I went and then I found out the correct way. You do it by running a bite of rope through the 2 (hopefully) anchors at the top. You can tie a figure 8 (retraced) in the loop. Then you attach it to you with a locking caribiner, and come down. When you get down untie all the knots (if you don't they get stuck in the anchors--yup personal experience), and then you pull the rope down. Hopefully this makes sense.