What's your op on driving piton's ? Would you trust em if you found them on your route ?

Question

I've got this block of granite thats been calling out to me since I first saw it, and upon closer inspection, I found some anchors. Personally I don't drive pit's, but it's smooth, tall and there are no cracks, just friction and smear. It can be top roped, but I can't talk anyone into climbing it. Any thoughts ?

Thanks in advance,

Damn it, two great answers. Looks like another one going to vote.

Yes they are pitons, and yes they look old.

Someone put in a lot of work getting them in, so I'm not sure if I'm comfortable hauling them out.

It's almost 3mi. off a well used trail, I found it bushwacking to overlook I wanted a photo from, so it's not frequently climbed, and it's about 35ft high. Not tall enough to scream 'Don't climb me w/ out protection', but tall enough to ruin your day if you made a mistake... but it's calling me, you probably understand...

Oh, it's a boulder or we call em glacial erratic's

Answer 1

Top rope it if you can. Driving a piton into rock than can otherwise be climbed is vandalism in my book. Sorry and I'm not trying to be rude. I understand everyone has different ethics.
If the anchors were good (I'm assuming the anchors you refer to are pitons and not bolts) how are you going to climb it with out another person anyway? (are you using a self belay device?)
I have encountered pitons on pitches before that I just didn't trust. look for any visable rust or cracks. Give it a test with your hand. If you can fit a micro nut in the fissue the piton was driven into try that (even though those things scare the piss out of me).

IMHO, top rope is safer. If it is part of a developed crag or area where drilling bolts is legal and accepted, then perhaps you might want to consider pulling the pitons and bolting the climb. I hate to see it done, but if it encourages people to clip into them instead of driving new pitons hten perhaps it would be the lesser of two evils?

Answer 2

Man, pitons are so retro. Either top rope it, or establish some bolted climbs. But first ask yourself if this hunk of granite is already a popular spot, readily accessible. If so, be conservative about putting up bolts, or perhaps even check with the climbing community about having some put up. And please do the rest of us a favor, pull out the old pitons. The holes they leave behind can make great finger holds.

If this hunk is in the middle of nowhere, not in a private or protected area, and people hardly know about it, go for it.

Addendum: If the pitons look old and rusty, they're unsafe. Old pitons are far less reliable than even old bolts. Pull 'em out.

If the rock is 3 MILES from the trail, go ahead and put up the bolts. And call the rock, "J-Man's Block", it's all yours. Very FEW established rock climbing spots are more than a mile from the trail.

Answer 3

Why are you asking about trusting old pitons(which I wouldn't) when you're saying you can't get anyone to climb it with you. And I wouldn't go bouldering anything More than 3 m without someone to spot me. If it's more than that, which I'm guessing it is if it's got pitons in it, you'd be mad to go trying it three miles from a road by yourself. Either you're one of those hard bastard nuts free soloers(who wouldn't ask this question) or you're an amature who doesn't know what's above them who just wants to hop on the rock and be Sylvester Stalone.