How does the light meter in a SLR 35mm Canon Rebel 2000 work? Is the correct exposure at 0 in manual mode?

Question

I am using Kodak Tmax 100 film for a depth of field project. For example when I set the aperture at widest opening 3.5 for my lens, in manual mode the scale blinks at the 2+ meaning I should increase exposure two stops so i adjust my shutter speed to the next higher speed. Is this right? In aperture priority mode the shutter speed sometimes reaches 1500 sec. I am confused but at the same time I want to learn.

Answer 1

It's actually telling you you're two stops overexposed, but you corrected the right way anyway. Higher shutter speeds decrease exposure, because they let in light for a shorter amount of time. Less time = less light.

Just make sure that, as you go one way with shutter speed, you go the other way with aperture. Wider aperture (smaller number) with faster shutter and smaller aperture with slower shutter. Keep practicing and it will come to you.

Answer 2

Terisu gave a good answer. A "Thumbs Up".

Correct exposure is a product of the relationship of light, ISO, f-stop and shutter speed. Since ISO is a measurement of the sensitivity of our film or sensor, the higher the ISO the more sensitive. The f-stop controls how much light is admitted. At f2 all the light is admitted; at f16 only a tiny amount. Our shutter speed determines how long the film or sensor must be exposed to the light for correct exposure. At f2 our shutter speed will be fast; at f16 very slow.

I like to show the actual relationship since a visual example is usually easier to understand.

This is a purely hypothetical example for illustrative purposes only. Using ISO 100, sunny day:

f2 @ 1/500 sec.
f2.8 @ 1/250 sec.
f4 @ 1/125 sec.
f5.6 @ 1/60 sec.
f8 @ 1/30 sec.
f11 @ 1/15 sec.
f16 @ 1/8 sec.

Each f-stop admits 1/2 as much light as the one before it. As less light is admitted our shutter speed is reduced by 1/2. Since f2.8 admits 1/2 the light of f2, our shutter speed has to be 1/2 as fast to allow the light to expose our film or sensor long enough for correct exposure.

All 7 exposures in our example above are identical. The only discernible differences will be an improvement in image quality from f5.6 to f11 (lenses perform best when stopped down) and an increase in depth of field from f4 to f16 (the smaller the f-stop the greater the depth of field).

Answer 3

Any 35mm SLR camera will work, but you will get the most value out of an older fully manual SLR, like the Pentax K1000. Unfortunately, your lenses from your t3i will probably not work on 35mm since they are most likely EF-S lenses for cropped sensors. They will physically fit and probably shoot, but will vignette or blacken the corners of the frame. You will probably want a camera with a nice fast prime lens since you can't change film ISO and you might be shooting indoors without a flash. I started with a Minolta XG-1 with a 45mm f/2 Rokkor lens and it taught me a lot about photography.

Answer 4

terisu answered you well. i will add a little, depending on what you point the camera at to meter off is important also, point it at white or black and it will meter wrong.......if you have a grey card use it........i do hand readings but thats something i dont share.....unless asked

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