I want to learn how to lead climb. I am very proficient at top roping climbs up to 5.10. I know how to belay, set up top rope anchors on outdoor cliffs, and I have a very basic knowledge of the tools used with lead climbing. I have access to a climbing wall that is part of my schools fitness center. The wall has quick links placed on it for lead climbing, but there is no one here that knows how to lead climb. I am asking if it is possible (read not stupid) to be able for me and a few friends to teach ourselves how to lead climb. Does it matter what kind of rope we use, static or dynamic? Do we need any other equipment besides that which is needed for top roping? Is there any information I need to know before I jump on the wall, (GOOD internet sites, books, . . . )?
2007-09-20
17:31:04
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7 answers
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asked by
Jake S
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Sports
➔ Outdoor Recreation
➔ Climbing
dynamic rope only. Lead climbing is vastly different from anything else. Even on a totally bolted route its just plain scarier. You fall so much farther. The reason people get so freaked on lead is you simply arent used to falling well. On indoor walls you never fall far and you never get more than a scrape. On lead you have a high likelihood of pain with a real fall. You therefor tend to over grip over exert over stay and lose momentum. I would stick to 5.6 for a while and do a variety on that level until you have fallen a few times and gotten used to it. Then move up to routes that are more challenging.
2007-09-23 08:48:07
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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Well, it's not reccomended. But indoor sport climbig isn't nearly as involved as trad climbing, or even outdoor sport climbing, so I'd say you can do it with the proper knowledge. You NEED to read up on the theories and techniques before you do it.
Here's the basics:
-only use dynamic rope!!!!! (unless you waqnt to break your back!)
-stand below (and 2 feet aside of) the first bolt while belaying, if you stand too far back and the leader falls, you'll go flying into the wall instead of up in the air
-don't backclip, there's only 2 ways you can do it and one is very wrong, and can result in the rope coming out of the biner when fallen on, which could mean a ground fall. READ!!!
-only clip a bolt that is at your head level or below, reaching up above to clip a bolt may seem less scary, but really you're creating excess slack that puts you in more danger
-if you decide to second (top rope) what your partner has lead, either use the anchors provided or leave 2 bolts clipped, NEVER rely on just one bolt! (this applies mostly for overhangs that cannot be top roped, the result is the seconder cannot complete the last moves because they must leave 2 bolts clipped, but at least they had a crack at that which they had not the courage or skill to lead.
Extra equipment needed: quick draws, and dynamic rope.
Have fun, and always fall trying (while sport climbing). Hang-dogging is lame!
2007-09-21 10:02:12
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answer #2
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answered by MetalMaster4x4 5
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NONONONONO. dont use static, static rope is only for rappelling and rescue. ALWAYS climb with dynamic rope. Static rope will hurt sooooooo bad if you take a fall on it. Lead climbing is fairly simple if we're talking sport climbing and not traditional. Since it's an indoor wall i'll assume sport. lead belaying is a lot different than top rope belaying. Are you use a gri gri or atc? as a leader you'll need enough quickdraws in order to make sure you dont fall, a quick draw will basically become your top rope anchor, untill you set another then so on and so on. sport climbing 101 with chris lindner is a good source. But i dont recommend using books, internet etc, without someone at least watching you. if there's a gym around go there and try to find someone, you'll get hurt real easily. im sure there is someone around. rockclimbing.com is a good site, the forums there are real good check out some vids. but please find someone that knows what they're doing so you don't get hurt. Be careful
2007-09-21 02:27:23
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answer #3
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answered by BrotherGambino 1
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Books can teach you the bottom belay techniques you'll need to lead climb. If all that is set are the anchor points, you'll need some Quick-Draws and some slings. The actual belaying is pretty much the same as top-roping with a bottom belayer. All you are doing is just moving the anchor point up the wall as you go. In a gym or a rock that has a pre-placed sport route, this is a good place to learn the belay technique.
You can use static or dynamic rope...all depends on how much bounce you want when you fall. A lot of gyms are switching to static rope lately.
I strongly suggest that if you are planning to venture out of the gym get some real-life instruction before going Trad. I'm still learning things about nuts, cams, hexs, tri-cams, etc. even after climbing for a number of years.
Have Fun! Stay Safe!
2007-09-21 01:28:36
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answer #4
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answered by Willie D 7
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do not assume that because you can top rope a school's indoor gym's assumed 5.10 that you know what you're doing on a lead, or even on a top roped real wall for that matter. take a class dude. belaying a top rope and a lead are two different things and you have to know the equipment you're using and how to back it up if it fails. go to your local rock gym and get some advice from them, they should be able to teach you or at least point someone out who can.
2007-09-21 23:02:27
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answer #5
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answered by burnttoast97 4
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lead climbing can be done without teacher but you need to practice on artificial wall and with the tools needed cause its more difficult climbing than top rope. much better you can find someone experience on lead climbing for safety reasons... outdoor climbing tools are expensive and need techniques on how to use them on natural cliffs. rope matter depends on how you use it... for lead climbing you use dynamic rope... for more details visit your nearest rock climbing gym in your area for your safety.
2007-09-23 14:56:08
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answer #6
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answered by kaka 1
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I'm putting my 2-cents' worth in addition to a couple of good answers above.
WHAT MORON WOULD USE A STATIC ROPE FOR CLIMBING?
Use only DYNAMIC rope. Static rope would only be appropriate for rappelling, but most climbers still use their dynamic rope for rappelling.
2007-09-21 10:54:37
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answer #7
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answered by Scythian1950 7
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