How can a 200' vertical rock face be top roped for rock climbing?

Question

I found a great 200' granite slab up in the mountains, and I want to top rope it for sport climbing. How can I do this? Climbing rope is usually limited to 60 meters.

Or just very carefully splice a couple of ropes together, huh?

Yes, we all know that it can be done in multiple lead pitches, but I'm trying to figure out the best way to make a superlong fun top-roped sports climb. Then you don't waste any time worrying about placement of protection while climbing. See?

john_climbs, you're thinking!

Answer 1

Why set up 2 pitches (as someone suggested) if you're trying to top-rope? Not as much fun!

Tie both ropes together using an overhand knot, backed up by a figure-eight knot (you can use a double fisherman's but will be very tough to get undone). Rappell or hike down to the base.

If you have 3 people, then you're set, just ask the climber to stop in a stable position when the knot comes down to the belayer, and the third person attaches their belay device on the other side of the knot. Then the first belayer can disengage their atc.

Or, if there is space to walk back down the approach, then the belayer can simply begin walking down the hill, and knot never has to be passed at all. To lower the person, walk back up the hill, or ask them to just set up a rappell if the teraain is too difficult.

If there is only one belayer, ask the climber to pause, and then get yourself hands free by tieing off the atc with a mule hitch and an overhand backup (or you could wrap the rope around your leg a bunch of times). Then use a second belay device to attach to the other side of the knot, hold or tie it in the brake position, and undo the mule hitch and disconnect the first belay device. Done. Reverse to lower, or ask climber to set up a rappell.

Or you can belay from the top. Lower the climber to the bottom (don't forget to tie a knot in the end of the rope!!!), and pull in the slack as he/she climbs up. Be prepared to make a simple hauling system in case the climber can't make it up, and it's too far to lower. But it should be ok distance wise.

The 5th option would involve friction hitches (prussic loops)and be more work, and a lot to explain here, but it would be the same technique as passing a knot on rappell or lowering someone.
P.S. if it's not long enough, and you don't have a 70m rope (or 2), then you might consider extending the top anchor with long slings or static rope, although if you're using slings beef them up since they lose a little strength when they are too long.

Enjoy.

Answer 2

OK first go back to REI and get Mountaineering freedom of the Hills. It is the most comprehensive rock climbing and mountaineering book ever. It will explain with detailed pictures and notes how to safely accomplish what you have asked. On the last question about self belay top rope. It can be done but is usually a more advanced technique and use more in emergencies than anything else. I would suggest getting a partner to climb with before you attempt to teach yourself a self belay method. If you really really want to i would look into a self locking belay device, not an ATC. Something like a Petzl GriGri. But your best bet i would highly recommend it.

Answer 3

You can find 70 meter ropes. Using 2 70-meter ropes tied together would be a better bet than 2 60-meter ropes. That's going to be pretty exhausting work for your belayer, though, I'd think. It would make more sense to do it in multiple pitches.

Answer 4

the safest way to do this is by setting several top ropes up scattered on the face, this way having several pitches.. or to save a lot of money and difficulty, learn to sport climb and you'll have to belay up your belayer on a multi pitch climb like that. any questions let me know.

Answer 5

2 60 meter ropes tied together. with stretch it should be plenty long.