vertical plane shutter?

Question

when using flash with a camera that works with a vertically travelling plane shutter, should a shutter speed of about 1/60 be used? Any help would be great!

Answer 1

i like this question and i hope the big guns jump in

on shutter dial theres proberly (camera would help) a number like 60 thats a different colour from the rest - this is the maximum sync speed dont exceed that

if that dont do it for you post more info

lets see who puts down look in the manual.....yeah like you have it and havent looked aready

a

Answer 2

For any focal plane shutter, the maximum flash sync speed is the top speed at which the lead shutter is completely open before the following shutter begins to move. This means that the whole film or sensor area is exposed when the flash operates.

At higher shutter speeds, the lead and following shutters form a slit that travels across the film or sensor, and if the flash operates, only the part of the film behind the slit at that moment in time will be exposed to the flash. The remainder of the film or sensor area will only be exposed to the ambient light, giving a bright strip through the image.

Cameras with horizontal travel cloth shutters were limited to 1/60s sync speeds. Those with vertical travel metal shutters could achieve higher sync speeds. By the early 1980s, Nikon had achieved a flash sync speed of 1/250s on the FM2n and FA models. I am not aware of any focal plane shutter camera with a higher sync speed.

If you are in a manual mode, the top flash sync speed is marked in a different colour on the shutter speed dial. For other modes, many cameras will limit the shutter speed when a flash is mounted and it is fully charged and ready.

Answer 3

In general vertical shutters can sync at a slightly higher speed than horizontal shutters (because, if the image area is a rectangle, they have a shorter distance to travel and, thus can stay fully open at a slightly higher speed). Most would sync at about 1/125 second. New flash & shutter technologies are changing this and some cameras with Focal Plane shutters can now sync at even higher speeds but it depends on the specific camera & flash models. Some flashes now have a longer duration and it is therefore possible for the flash to fire long enough for an exposure at even higher shutter speeds with this type of unit.

If you want specific information, search the web with the Camera & Flash Make, Model Numbers and the words "flash synchronization".

Or email me and I will try to help.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: When electronic flashe units ("stobes") were first introduced the technology did not exist to produce a burst of illumination that was longer than a few thousandths of a second. This created a problem because traditionl flash bulbs burned significantly longer than that and could fully expose an image even if the shutter was a focal plane shutter. Focal plane shutters differ significantly from leaf shutters. At high shutter speeds focal plane shutters leading & trailing curtains move so rapidly and are so close together that the film/sensor is never fully revealed at any one instant, thus the synchronization problem. For most electronic flashes to work with a focal plane shutter both curtains had to be clear of the image area when the flash fired. Today at least one manufacturer makes a flash with a longer duration (or perhaps very high speed repeating) flash that can overcome this problem by exposing the film/sensor with even illumination during the entire shutter cycle. This is a significant accomplishment because it allows photgraphers to have much greater control over exposure when using "fill" flash.

Answer 4

To be sure, run a test.
Shutter speeds drift with time. Even though you set a specific speed, older cameras can sometimes find a speed of their own. With the flash attached, shoot in a low light environment. Try several speeds starting with 1/30. Note when your negative starts showing a defined black (underexposed) quadrant. That is where your speed is too fast. You can use cheap film and have the lab "Process Only" to keep testing costs down. When your negative is evenly exposed, that is where acceptable sync speeds will start. You may want to try some really slow speeds (maybe on a tripod) to get a better ambient balance so that your subject doesn't look like it is floating in a sea of black. This slower speed will allow more background room light to record onto the film.

Answer 5

If you are still striving to improve you are vertical and you're trying to get both hands over the edge, set Vert Shock to the test, an application you will believe it is here https://tr.im/Kvelo  and give it a try, you'll be taken aback of how fast you may become an animal hopper in the event that you teach the right way.
This system will not allow you to jump thousands of instances since Vert Shock was made and used by actual elite stage basketball players.
As it pertains down to it, in the event that you really want to leap higher, you just discovered the most effective process in the world to accomplish so. Any other way could only be described as a waste of time.

Answer 6

The type of shutter doesn't matter - it's the flach synch speed for your camera that is important. Best thing to do is to check the manual but 1/60th sounds very slow - common enough thirty years ago but something nearer 1/125th would suit most cameras these days.

Answer 7

Your camera manual should tell you at what speed flash is synchronised. These days it should be a little faster than 1/60 - more like 1/125.