i have canon EOS400D. and how to prevent the picture from shaking other than using tripod.?

Question

i have been using modes to take pic now like Av, Tv and stuff because the quality will be better, but the thing is, when i move a little, the picture will be blur because of the shakes. what is the technique to prevent it from shaking other than using tripod. this is because tripod is wayyy to bulky to bring everyway. thanks. please help

Answer 1

Set the camera for a higher ISO setting. You have a range available from 100 ISO to 1600. Do most of your shooting at 400 or so, and you'll be find outdoors. Indoors, use flash or move it up to 800 or 1600. You can improve the pictures in the computer afterwards.

Either that, or choose a mode that selects a shutter speed equal to or above the focal length of the lens. You have several choices in metering.

Program AE (shiftable), Shutter-priority AE, Aperture-priority AE, Auto Depth-of-field AE (non-shiftable), Full auto (Program AE, non-shiftable), Programmed image control modes, Manual exposure (including bulb), E-TTL II autoflash program AE

I'd suggest using Shutter-priority AE, if you're having difficulties with movement.
Eg: 1/125 sec when shooting a 120mm lens.

Learn to hold the camera 'correctly'. Too many beginners hold only the camera body (like holding a book) leaving the full weight of the lens extended out, causing shakes. Use your left hand beneath the lens, always, to support it.

Place your legs apart, one in front and the other behind. This minimizes the movement along the vertical axis.

Take breath and SQUEEZE the shutter button. Too many smash the button, causing vibration.

Trust me, these techniques work as I can't bring a tripod or use a flash when shooting NBA & WNBA games.

If you have any other questions, please ask. I shoot Nikon, but my brother just invested into a Canon system like yours.

Answer 2

read what George wrote very carefully and practice that. Then find things to help you as well. That big ole oak nearby? Lean up against it to steady yourself, Place your camera against a doorframe and shoot , a dining room chair makes a wonderful tripod steady yourself and your camera against whatever is available just remember the size of the tree matters especially in high winds.

Answer 3

Unless you are completely spastic, 1/250 Tv should eliminate camera shake (faster with a long lens).

If this ain't possible, get a monopod.

Today these weigh nothing and are tiny. I fold mine up completely and jam the tip into my belt. Looks moronic but gets me 2 stops extra.

Try it and see.

Answer 4

George has given you a very comprehensive "BEST" answer, so please choose him as the best - but FIRST!!!

In a couple of days, click on the pencil icon under your name and choose "Extend Expiration" for your question. This will add 5 days to the time the question stays on the boards. I put a star on this question so that more people might see it, just for his answer. If you wait until next Thursday or Friday, you can come back and choose his as the best answer. After the details he provided you, I think he deserves that courtesy.

And now for something completely different...

There is a different way to approach your problem, but it's not free. When you shop for lenses in the future, look for "IS" or image stabilization. Here's my stock answer on that subject.

This technology is known as "image stabilization," "vibration reduction," "shake reduction," "optical stabilization," and "anti-shake" by the various manufacturers. It is "for real" and makes a visible difference most of the time. If you are using an average point and shoot camera without a monstrous zoom lens, you will see the difference in lower light situations where the camera will be using about 1/60th of a second or lower.

If you are using a telephoto lens, the effect will be noticeable at roughly anything slower than the inverse of the focal length, which used to be our standard for deciding when you should use a tripod. If it's a 200 mm lens, you will see the benefit of "IS" or "VR" at speeds of 1/200 or slower. If it's a 500 mm lens, you will see the benefit of "IS" or "VR" at speeds of 1/500 or slower. Actually, you will notice a difference at slower speeds than this, but I'd say that this threshold is where it can be called a distinct advantage. Macro shooting benefits from "IS/VR" also, because any movement will be greatly magnified when you are working at extreme close range with high magnification. Also, I feel that "IS/VR" helps if you are using a point and shoot camera at arm's length as you compose in the LCD monitor. It is much harder to hold the camera still with your arms out in front of you. "VR/IS" would be helpful there, even with the shorter focal lengths.

Please understand that "VR" or "IS" (etc) will NOT stop motion in a moving subject. You need to use a high shutter speed and/or pan along with the subject in order to do that. VR is only to minimize the effects of camera movement to give you a better chance at getting a clear picture. It won't work miracles there, either. You have to at least TRY to hold still. You can't go down a bumpy road in speeding car and expect to get great shots.

This is a composite I made to demonstrate "vibration reduction," which is also called "image stabilization" and "shake reduction" by various camera and lens manufacturers. For the best results, you should click on "All Sizes" and then "Original" before making your comparisons. I tried to remain consistent for all three shots, but I guess as clouds move in and out, things varied by an f-stop or so. I do not think that depth of field is an issue in this test, though. I did not move my feet at all during the test, so the point of view is identical. All three images were made using 1/60th of a second, which I consider to be the low shutter speed for hand-holding a 60 mm lens. I made a reference shot with my 60 mm Nikon macro lens, since I know this to be a fairly sharp lens. I tried to hold as still as I could, but I did not use a tripod. I then made two more exposures with the Nikon 18-200 VR lens, set at 62 mm. I was trying to match the 60 mm lens, but I did it by just remembering some landmarks and zooming to match. As I used the VR lens, however, I did my best to actually "vibrate" the camera by inducing a tremor in my hands as if I was shivering in the cold. I took one photo with the help of VR and one without. It was extremely odd to look through the lens as I shook my hands.

Since the VR was working, even though I knew I was shaking the camera, the image appeared steady in the viewfinder! Okay, compare the shots for yourself. You won't see too much difference in the top two, but the effect of vibration reduction is very obvious when you see how the picture comes out when "VR" is turned off.

Nikon D200 - ISO 100 - Nikon 60 mm Macro and Nikon 18-200 VR with and without VR

http://www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstein/511455669/

I realized that the first VR demo (above) may not be a "real world" demo, as I was TRYING to shake during the exposure. Who does that? I was originally trying to answer a question for someone who had a problem with severe tremors, so I was trying to induce tremors in my own hands. Well, I should ask, "Who does that on purpose?"

So in this pair, I was trying to hold still for both shots. The white balance is different, as I am trying to learn about that, but I realized that the first shot I took had the "VR" turned off. Everything else is the same, because I didn't move and the shots were made less than 30 seconds apart. The exposures were the same for both shots. I did not do ANY post-processing at all, as that would defeat the purpose of the demo.

Nikon D200 - ISO 100 - Nikon 70-300 VR @ 240 mm with and without VR

http://www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstein/755244335/

For a detailed, yet easy to understand explanation, see:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/image-stabilization.htm

Answer 5

Fuma and George gave great advice. There is also something called a monopod that can be used.

Answer 6

hmm...i think u must buy another camera..

i think that okay for me..