Please hurry I am in the middle of this...stock 350 intake bolt tightening sequence?

Question

Please, if your going to answer...know what you are talking about. Thanks for the help

Answer 1

I own a shop, and build race engines. There is not enough information for anyone to give you the correct answer. The reason is; What intake do you have, aluminum, Vortec, or what? What heads do you have? Stock, aftermarket aluminum, or what? The sequence varies from one to the other, and for ANYONE to give you the answer is NOT right. Ask the question again and be specific about what it is you are doing, and what parts you are using. I know you are in a hurry, but getting in a hurry fills up junkyards with engines that weren't put together correctly.
If you have a stock cast iron intake, and stock cast iron heads, then starting in the middle and working your way out in a criss-cross order will be correct. Anything else and you risk warping the intake, and/or pulling the threads right out of the heads. If done wrong you will have a leaking cooling system, and may wonder where your coolant keeps going to.
I would just like to add: Some intakes don't have inside bolts, and only have a total of 8 bolts. These are 2 bolts on each corner, and are made of aluminum. Tighten these wrong, and you'll be buying a new intake.
Glad to help out, good Luck!!!

Answer 2

First clean threads on all oil and sealer material and apply a thick sealer to threads and then snug all bolts. Then using a torque wrench, tighten the four inner bolts to about 20 ft/lbs in a cross over way first. Cross over means one on one side and then tighten one on the other side but kitty corner style. Then move to the next outer layer and do the same with crossover style. Finally finish with crossover style the outermost bolts. Usually the final torque is 35 ft/lbs, so do the same procedure again. Once completed, go back and assure the bolts are at 35 ft/lbs. Most times you will have to make several passes before they are all at 35 ft/lbs. Good luck.

Answer 3

DO NOT START THE ENGINE !!!! Go to an auto store and by a magnet on a stick.Some are flexible and some are telescopic.There is another tool that has 3 claws that close around the bolt and is plunger activated.My mechanic once dropped a small bolt and thought it was lost on the floor.He was wrong.He called me and told me what happened and that he would have my car for 2-3 more days.He replaced all 6 pistons.

Answer 4

Start in the middle,either side. Work your way in an X pattern side to side working towards the corners.Gm does have an exact sequence but I suspect it is not critical.The intake gets the hottest in the middle where the exhaust crosses over and this is the area where the intake might warp. That is why we tighten the center first. the alternating side to side towards the ends tightens the manifold uniformly.
Hope that helped
Mike

Answer 5

Start from the center and work you way out in a criss-Cross fashion. You need to tighten the bolts in three stages to reach the recomened torque spec. (If I remember correctly it's 65 Ftlb, then 75 Ft lb and then 80 Ft lb. start with the 4 inner bolts and work you way to the outer bolts.

Mad Tony is correct. Sorry about that...

Answer 6

Without having a service manual in front of me,

Torque in stages, such as 45...90...180...to whatever your torque specs are...

Picture the upper right corner (looking over the intake) then the lower left, upper left to the lower right, then working in to the same pattern with any "inside" bolts.
The same pattern for the head sequence.

Answer 7

edit : the above is head bolts

85 on vortec - 11 ft/lbs start on your left. inner front, back inner right,,back inner left,front inner right.
left back,right back,,left front, right front

early stuff non vortec 30ft lbs

edit : the below is head bolts and wrong

Answer 8

start at opposing corners and work your way in