ka24e, ka24de??

Question

would a ka24e last/good if used for drifitng, or is an sr20/rb25 swap worth doing than keeping the la24e(pls dont say get an sr20 if your just saying it because everyone does it i need reasonable answers) or should i just stick with a 98 240sx with a ka24de? ooh and its going to be turboed

ooh i ment the ka24e for a 89-92 becaus i was thinking of that but then i was asking if i would be okay to rubo it ad if its okay to use for drifting but if its not if i should just stick with a 98 with a ka24de

sorry for the unclear questions and thanks for your feedback guys

im not really looking for high boost and also installing 1 right away, just somewhere around what the motor could take.what do you guys suggest to make a little more power to push the car and can also be used when i get a turbo eventually? my plan is when i get my car im going to work with the suspension 1st and if the car doesnt have the abs/vlsd option from factory im gunna get a vlsd from a 240 or 300zx

Answer 1

Outside of the actual engine question, if you're just learning to drift, don't touch anything. You'll be a better driver in the end. Power is a crutch when it comes to learning drifting. Learn how to shift weight, initiate drifts, hold drifts, maintain speed and angle with low power. Then go for the big power. You'll struggle at first but you'll be glad you did later on.

The other two guys above me are absolutely correct in everything they've said as well.

Answer 2

I am really interested, because you said it is a 98 but has a KA24e. If you know the difference, e is single cam, and de is dual cam. They stopped offering KA24e's in 92. So I don't know how you would have one. And if you plan to turbo it, plan a rebuild. This is my plan as well, but more work and money. The KA block is very strong, but other component are not. Because it was not built to be a turbo car, the pistons and rods will definately need to be changed, along with a few others. You are looking at about a $2000 rebuild, plus the $4000 dollar turbo kit. So this would be more expensive, but has much more torque. I like it, but more money. To quote Eric Hsu from XS Engineering, if you want 200-350 hp get an SR20. If you want 400+ Turbo the KA. Good luck man, hope I answered the question.

Answer 3

JGS KA24E Turbo Kit Starter Package

Includes-
AGP/Turbonetics .50 trim T3/T04E turbo (.63 or .48)
KA24E turbo manifold
JGS400 Wastegate
KA24E downpipe and wg pipe set
T3 mounting studs
JGS KA24E oil feed & return line kit
Turbo cement
EGR Plug
Excellent start for a solid KA24E turbo system!
To complete the exhaust we recommend a 3"SR20DET downpipe, high flow cat (or test pipe), and 3" cat back exhaust. SR20DET intercooler kits can be adapted to this setup with minimum modification. Fueling for this turbo should be at least an upgraded fuel pump, Fuel computer (E-manage, SAFC, DTEC, etc.), Z32 maf, and 550cc injectors. Alternatively a JimWolfTech ECU can be used instead of a fuel computer (for those who want a pre-tuned setup). ~12-15psi (275-300WHP) is about all the stock pistons can stand, be prepared to replace with forged units. Use of our bypass valve plumbed back into the intake before the MAF is recommended.

M-TURBO $1687.49

Answer 4

I agree with The 240SX guy. However 4 cyl drift car? Toyota Corolla SR-5 GT from the 1970'S will blow you away, being much lighter. You can however build a drift specific car and strip it down to the bare car. If you plan to drive this car on roads back and forth to work best to keep a good stock example. Drifting is expensive because it shows up all the weak parts and shreads reat tires.

Answer 5

The only disagreement I have with the prior responses is questioning the use of a 4 cyl in a drift application. S-chassis cars OWN the sport of drifting, and 99% of them are powered by a 4-cyl (typically an SR20DET).

I'd recommend doing some more reading - Here's a couple resources for you:

A forum dedicated to drifting with an S13 / S14:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=147

Engine forums for the SR, KA and RB (in order):
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=138
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=170
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=135

Answer 6

It is best not to add boost to old pistons rings and stock internals. I call it explosive testing. Reliability starts with rebuilding the motor with forged pistons with 7 to 1 compression specially designed camshafts and head and manifold porting. Then enough oil coolers to keep that long stroke motor cool. When your pushing a 140 hp motor to over 200 hp use only premium grade fuel.