i need some professionals here:
i was trying to bleed my shimano LX (M585) brake system and downloaded the instructions online. i followed them EXACTLY but im not getting the expected outcome. it feels like the hoses are empty but barely any fluid came out during the bleed process.
what am i doing wrong? i plan to call shimano tomarrow, but want to get some opinions right now.
2007-04-09 15:24:35 · 5 answers · asked by Anonymous in Sports ➔ Cycling
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you followed the directions exactly, you would have gotten the expected result. Really, I'm not trying to be an Ahole. Alex gave a good simplified tutorial for the hydraulic bleed process, so I won't bother.
The first thing i noticed is that you said 'barely any fluid came out during the bleed process'. When you bleed the brakes, if you don't squeeze the lever gently it will shoot across the room and land on your stash of porn videos. If barely any fluid came out, then the hose _is_ pretty much empty. Make sure there is nothing clogging the hose from the reservoir to the cylinder.
To echo another sentiment already stated, hydraulic brakes on a MTB are a bad idea for anyone except professional downhillers, and thats only because they have professional mechanics rebuild the bike after almost every ride. If you have the cash, re-invest in a cable system. Way less of a headache.
2007-04-10 09:47:22 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Right, forget Shimano, etc. and look at this as an ordinary set of discs.
Before bleeding the disk, get your spanner onto the bleed nipple. Place a vinyle tube from the nipple down to a jar that has been partially filled with fluid. Make sure your bike is upright and secure before opening the reserviour. Top up with fluid.
Now, gentley undo the bleed nipple, while squeezing the brake lever, until fluid starts to come out of the pipe. As you near the end of the squeeze, shut off the bleed nipple. Top up again and pump the brake lever about 15 or 20 times.
Repeat the process above until the fluide coming out of the bleed nipple pipes is free of bubbles. Once this occures, top up the reserviour to the marker and then close. Remove pipe and spanner. Pump brakes just to make sure.
The above works for all hydraulic brakes (had to do a roadside strip and top up with a Honda with sticky brakes. That was fun).
Luck.
2007-04-10 00:53:13 · answer #2 · answered by Alice S 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Get a craigslist mechanic. that's in all probability over your head once you're rounding off bolts. You gotta use a penetrating oil and a warmth gun once you are going to handle bolts that rusted or decently torqued. No methods around it without unfavorable the bolts. i don't understand what you're doing (in all probability utilising those dumb 12 factor sockets that around each fastener) yet you gotta learn from what you're doing incorrect. And in case you haven't any longer have been given every physique that may be useful you or a one guy brake bleeder pump, you shouldn't have even tried to try this restore. that's basically negligent to do whilst engaged on brakes; no brakes and the vehicle's shifting and the motive force can kill a pedestrian truly.
2016-10-21 11:56:44 · answer #3 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I have been in the Hydraulic business for 30 years and owned my own Hydraulic repair shop for 9 years now and I have cable disc brakes on my bike for the very reason of the problems you are having. The little bit of better efficiency will never justify the pain in the butt they will eventually be.
2007-04-10 00:18:28 · answer #4 · answered by D'Artagnan 3 · 0⤊ 1⤋
Have you opened the bleed bolt before you injected the new fluid?
2007-04-09 18:32:48 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋