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The first step is having a place to work in total darkness. Small format rolls however can be handled in a light-proof changing bag. For roll film, you need a developing tank which has a plastic bobbin that fits inside. In total darkness you open the film canister (35mm), then roll the film onto the bobbin. Put the bobbin in the tank and close it. The tank should be light proof, so now you can work in light again. For B/W you add the liquid hypo developer, then light agitation for a time that is determined by your film characteristics and tempurature. This is then stopped by draining and adding water and a stop bath. Once stopped, the tank can be opened and the negative roll hung to dry.

For color film the process is more involved. E6 (ektachorme) can be home developed, but Kodachrome and print film is not recommended. For color you will need constant temperature baths for the tank, and it will need to be hot, so you need a consistant supply of hot water. There are multliple chemical steps involved to develop the color layers separately. Timing and temperature is critical, you will need an accurate immersion thermometer and a stopwatch or timer. Again after the final bath, the tank can be opened an the roll dried. After drying the film is cut and put into plastic slide holders, i like using the PK type.

For larger format cameras, you use sheet film. In this case you will need to work in a light proof room (no safe light allowed) and a series of chemical trays like you would set up when printing film. Remember you will have to control temperature and timing in darkness. It is best to use automatic temp valves and flowing water for color work with the trays sitting in a water bath. You will need a timer that operates by touch and has presets.

Splashing hypo is a lot of fun, but the automatic equipment that a lab uses will give better results.

2007-02-24 14:27:40 · answer #1 · answered by lare 7 · 0 0

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