I need help...?

Question

My dog is getting pregnet and I already know everthing cause I did some research but what do I have to do when she is pregnet and before she's pregnet and after she's pregnet... I am asking because I have to make sure that I know everthing before she gets pregnet.. or hurt
Thank you SOOOOO much!

Answer 1

Sara, you need to forget about breeding your dog. You may think you know everything about breeding a dog, but what you have obviously failed to know is that there is already a pet overpopulation problem. Go to petfinder.com and look at all of the dogs that do not have a home, no one to love them. Do you want to add to these statistics? Do you want to be responsible for even MORE dogs in the world, a world that already has too many. Lots of these dogs will NEVER find a loving home, and their chances are greatly reduced when people keep allowing more and more dogs to be born. When you're saying your prayers tonight, say one for all of the animals in the world that do not have what your dog has...a home with a family that loves it...and tomorrow do the only thing that you can do to help these homeless dogs...spay your own dog!

Answer 2

The best website that I have found for informational reference is http://www.debbiejensen.com - this website is packed with everything you need to know. I am a Cocker Spaniel breeder and what I do for nutrition with my dog's are pregnant is to feed them Purina Puppy Chow mixed with raw eggs or evaporated milk. I do this the whole time they are pregnant and while they are nursing. Good Luck!

Answer 3

if she is pregnant feed her well, keep her safe and cozy,
make her a quiet bed or whelping box to have her pups in. when the pups get here, be careful, mama dogs can be agressive. she may bite strangers messing near the pups!!
a mama pit bull attacked a little boy near us who wasnt being watched by his parents.
the dog was chained but had pups. its natural to protect babys.
we do it too.!!
little boy lived but had many surgerys. dog killed. all sad.
once pups are here , feed mom extra food !!!
she will need good shelter and water too.
mama dog will wean pups at 5-6 weeks , find good homes.
then please call your local humane society and have your girl dog spayed.
may cost $25.00 may be free.
they have funds.
be good to your dog. she has feelings too.
you are her mother.
good luck.

Answer 4

You are getting ready to breed your dog?
Is she purebred? There are so many unwanted purebreds and mixed breeds, are you sure you want to bring another litter into this world? PLEASE only consider breeding her if she is purebred and you are breeding to a purebred male of the same type of dog (no puggles, labradoodles, etc).

I only say this, because I am having second thoughts about getting a female Great Dane to breed with our male!

Ok, you plan on being a responsible owner and breed your dog for the better of the breed and not for the profit (by the way, breeding dogs is not very profitable).

Check pedigrees of both dogs (line breeding-breeding father to daughter-should only be done by experienced breeders). Do not breed dogs related by only 2 generations (cousin dogs).

Supplies:
whelping box (kiddy pool works great for this)
towels and sheets (lots of extras)
hemastats (incase cord does not stop bleeding)
sterile thread (soak sewing thread in alochol)
dull scissors (to cut cord shorter if needed)-kid scissors work
heating pad (to keep puppies warm)
nursing bottles and formula-big puppies, use reg baby bottles..rott, pit, etc (incase mom does not take care of them)
watch (pocket or wrist) (to know how long inbetween pups)

That cks out ok, now wait for your dog to come into heat...start her on a good quality puppy food (not a Wal-mart brand.....Bil-jac,science diet, Natural Choice, etc. are good choices)...about 7-8 days after she starts bleeding, introduce her to the male...they may breed, but it is unlikely she will become pregnant...10 days after she starts to bleed, she will be fertile...you can either leave your female with the male for a week (or week and half), or let them breed on day # 10, take her home...back on day #12 and again on day # 14....keep her away from ALL other male until she is out of heat.

63 days later (give or take a day or two) she will go into labor.
Labor starts with her being uncomfortable, then into hard labor (pushing)....the transition between the two could take a while...dogs have a natural instinct when it comes to having babies...no need to coach!...sit with her in her whelping box (or outside if there is not enough room) and just keep quiet! The only reason to intervene is if a puppy gets stuck (if this happens, gently pull with each contraction...if it does not come out after 3 or 4 pushes, pull a little harder...if nothing happens, EMERGANCY trip to hospital)...keep your vets emergancy number handy. The only other reason to intervene is if she is not licking membrane off of the puppy's face. Step in and do that...if she is not taking care of the puppies as they are born, then she probably will not be a good mother.
When she finishes with a pup, ck the cord and make sure it is about 1/2 in or less...if not, tie off with thread and use DULL scissors to cut shorter (this will be hard with the scissors, but it keeps the cord from bleeding...you are mimicing the mother's chewing)...if short, but still bleeding, use hemestates and pinch off...tie with thread...let pup nurse...if does not nurse, put on a towel on heating pad (pad on low to med NOT High)...same with all pups...once all the puppies are born (no pups for over 2 hrs)...ck for a normal bloody discharge (black or green is not a good sign)...if anything other than normal bloody look, take her to a vet! if night time, have a 24 hr clinic's number handy. Make sure all puppies nurse within the first hr of being born! If all goes well, take her and the puppies to the vet for their first ck up! This is crucial...if a puppy or after birth is not delivered, the vet will know and take the approriate steps.

Home from the vet...make sure all puppies are still nursing and are warm...keep out of drafty places...also, make sure they don't get to hot!

Puppies start to open their eyes about 3-4 weeks of age(some sooner, some later)...take what ever puppyfood that mom is on and soak in HOT water (Bil-jac is the best for this)...once you have a mush (you can add puppy formula to this...makes it easier to get puppies eat it), and it is cooled enough for the puppies to eat (still warm), set it in front of them...keep mom out, or she will eat it...you may have to force feed the puppies the first couple of bites... they will eventually get the hang of eating. Feed like this three times a day...let mom clean them up after they get through.

At 6 weeks old, they are ready for the first shots (yes as a responsible owner/breeder you need to give these...if not, don't breed your dog). Do not let the puppies go right after they get the shots. Try to keep the puppies until 7-8 weeks old.

Do you still want to breed your dog?
Good Luck to you!

Answer 5

You can't have done much research then LOl !!!
Hope you find this helpful................
I have assisted many bitches having difficult and normal whelps, and I am often called out in the middle of the night to assist other breeders when their ***** is due to whelp. I assist new and relatively new breeders, during the whole period of the *****'s pregnancy. There are many questions I get asked during this period, the most frequent ones I shall explain in detail below. This is a rough guide, but it should be enough information to help you on your way. I won't go into much detail for now, I will incorporate that all later. On the subject of whelping, there are many very good books on the market.
Assuming your ***** has been successfully mated, the scan has shown that your ***** is carrying healthy normal sized puppies, and you have been advised by whom ever scanned your ***** that the puppies are imminent and every thing appears to be fine. Make sure you have every thing ready, bitches in whelp have no concept of time. To put it correctly it's the puppies that decide when they are due to be born.
Hopefully by now you should have:


A whelping box, Cover the floor with a thick layer of newspaper, don't
bother putting the polyester bedding in until all the pups have been born.
Also introduce your ***** to the whelping box a week before hand so she
can get used to it. (Some bitches will decide that they don't want to have
their puppies in the whelping box so you have been warned.)


Plenty of old clean towels. (I personally find towels to be a bit thick and
rough for newly born pups. I scour the charity shops for second hand
Candlewick bed covers. When I get them home I boil them cut them up
into tea towel size, and hem them. I find that they softer and easier to
use.)


A laundry basket with a towel and hot water bottle, this is so you
have some where to put the puppies in while the ***** is
having her next pup.



Sterile scissors


Antiseptic wipes. These are a god send as they can be used for cleaning
your equipment, hands, whelping box and the ***** when she has finished
whelping.


Plenty of newspapers


Rubbish bags


Watch or clock


Notebook and pen


Glucose mixed with some water and a drop of milk, your ***** may require
an energy boost while she is in whelp, as whelping can takes a lot of
energy out of your *****.


A torch, as I said earlier you never know when or where your
***** decides to have her pups.


The phone number of your vet.


Words of warning for all of you that wear rings, take them off. For two reasons firstly they could scratch either the ***** or the pups. Secondly you may lose them with the rubbish that gets thrown out. I personally don't like going through rubbish especially after a whelping. Those of you with long nails get them cut; I need not have to explain why.
If you have other dogs in the household keep them away from the whelping *****, as their presence could affect the way she responds to her new pups.
Keep all strangers away for exactly the same reason.


Question: How will I tell when she is due?
It is advisable to take the *****'s temperature about a week before
the puppies are due. Your *****'s temperature will drop at least
24 hours before the puppies are born and a pregnant *****'s
temperature is normally lower than the norm. So taking the
temperature a week before hand will give you a new figure as a guideline.
The normal temperature is 101.5 F, a ***** in whelp's temperature is100 F and the temperature when the puppies are due is 99 F, and it can go down to as low as 97 F. Most breeders will take the temperature 3 times a day, for a couple of days before the due date. So they can be prepared.
Because each ***** is different some can show no indication at all that they are about to whelp, some will go through all the motions. I will list all the things that could happen. They can appear to be very restless, - very clingy, - go off their food, -start digging furiously at there bedding. This can last for up to 24 hours.


Question: She is squatting as if she is desperate to empty her self?
Basically she's about to have her first puppy. Make a mental note to the length of time she has been straining. If at all possible try and get her into the whelping box. The first thing you will notice a black fluid
filled bag protruding from her vulva. This is the
water bag. Its main purpose is to lubricate the
passage for the birth of the puppy. Sometimes
this can appear as a gush of water. Quite soon
after this you should see the head of a puppy,
it will be enclosed in a membrane, the ***** will
strain again and this time the rest of the pup
should slide out quickly, followed by the
placenta.
If the ***** doesn't break the bag, you will
have to do it for her. Do this calmly but quickly,
you must tear off the membrane, hold the pup
upside down, wipe the face and nostrils so that
the airways are clean, and drain any fluids from
the lungs. Rub the puppy vigorously with a towel.
You may have to cut off the placenta. Ease, with
your fingers, the blood in the umbilical cord down
towards the puppy. Cut the cord as far away
from the puppy as you can. If the puppy is still
lifeless you need to hold the pup in your hand so
you are supporting its head between your first
two fingers, and the rest of the body in the palm
of your hand. Swing the puppy in a downwards
motion fairly vigorously beside your body. The
puppy should take its first gasp. Rub the puppy
dry. Let the ***** lick the pup. The next thing to
do is to get the pup suckling; the pup may be
reluctant to do this at first. You may need to get
the pups mouth open by placing your thumb and
finger either side of the pups mouth and gently pressing it open, while you do this place the mouth over the teat. While holding the pup in place try and suppress the milk from the teat.
Allow up to 2 hours between pups and normally the first few will come quite quickly. Make sure that you count all the puppies and placentas if you have a placenta missing you will have to inform the vet.
Once all the puppies have been born phone the vet. To explain what has happened, the vet may want to see the ***** and possibly administer an injection of Oxytocin, to make sure that the uterus
contracts down properly and all the
contents have been expelled, this would
include any missing placentas. Now is the
time to tidy everything up the whelping
box etc. wipe the backend of the *****
clean. Put the nice clean polyester bedding
in the box get your ***** back in, place the
pups at the teats. Your ***** may want a
light meal of scrambled eggs with a pinch of
glucose. Make sure that the pups are
nice and warm. Leave mum and pups in peace, as she will need a good rest.
Keep your eye on them but don't make to much fuss.

You’ve done your homework and found a compatible male to complement your *****’s pedigree and physical characteristics; both dogs have passed the appropriate health testing for the breed. She’s in season and it’s time to take her to the veterinarian for a prenatal checkup and to make sure that her vaccinations, medications and worming are up to date. Once you’ve bred her, she should be under veterinarian care for any illnesses and should be kept away from any dogs that might pass viruses to her. Infestations, illnesses or diseases can affect the unborn puppies. Bitches can have miscarriages. If fetal death occurs early in the pregnancy, it is usually undetected and absorbed by the mother’s body. Abortion may result if fetal death occurs later in the pregnancy, and, dependent upon the cause of fetal death, the ***** may carry the remaining fetuses to term. A number of things can cause fetal death, including fetal congenital defects, the physical health of the mother, her uterus and placenta, malnutrition, anything that alters the health of the mother. This can include reproductive tract diseases and illnesses, such as cystic endometrial hyperplasia, adhesions (possibly from previous pregnancies or caesarian-sections), tumours or hormonal imbalances. Diseases known to cause fetal death include Canine Distemper Virus infection, Canine Herpes Virus infection, Toxoplasmosis, Campylobacter infection and Brucellosis (a type of Canine sexually transmitted disease).



You will still need to exercise your *****. As the pregnancy progresses, your walks may get a bit slower. She will require about 30% more supplementary food during the last three to four weeks of her pregnancy. Now is a good time to put her on puppy food specially formulated for the needs of puppies and pregnant or lactating bitches. She may become a bit moody and depressed or she may have no changes at all, other than an increased appetite and thickening around the middle.



As the whelping date nears, she may become restless. The whelping area should be ready so that she can become accustomed to it. You may want to schedule a few days off before the whelping date so that someone is home with her at all times. Some bitches do whelp early and premature puppies are the result. Bitches should never whelp by themselves since trouble can occur and no one wants to come home to find dead puppies and/or a dead *****.



Once whelping begins, be prepared for any problems that may occur. Dystocia is the term associated with difficulty in whelping. While uterine fatigue (inertia), due to length of labour or to lack of physical fitness prior to whelping, is probably the most common cause of dystocia, other factors may also present problems, such as puppies too large for the pelvis or vaginal canine, malpresentation (breech puppies), prolapsed uterus, prolapsed vagina, uterine torsion, or ruptured uterine. You and your veterinarian will need to determine the cause of dystocia. Proper treatment may be either administering drugs (oxytocin) to increase uterine contractions, manual assistance in delivery, or surgery (a caesarian-section).



Once those puppies are all born, there are still dangers to both the puppies and to the *****. Eclampsia is not an extremely common disease, but it is life-threatening. While it is caused by low calcium levels in the blood caused by the demands of lactating, there is evidence that giving the ***** calcium during pregnancy may, in fact, predispose her to this condition. Small dogs are particularly prone to this disease. Signs to watch for during the first three weeks of nursing includes behaviour changes such as restlessness, nervousness or lack of interest in the puppies. Left untreated, the next stage can be excessive salivation, a stiff or wobbly gait, or irritability. Continued lack of treatment may result in fever, inability to stand, muscle spasms, and seizures over the next few minutes to several hours. Death may occur due to hypothermia or respiratory depression. Dogs suffering from eclampsia should be transported immediately to the veterinarian where, if consulted in time, the intravenous administration of calcium can result in rapid improvement. Recurrence can be prevented after such an episode by continuing to give oral calcium throughout the remainder of the lactation period. Calcium should be given upon a veterinarian’s advice only.



Much easier to recognize, mastitis is the infection and/or inflammation of the mammary gland and may include all or just one or several glands. The affected glands become firm and hard, often resembling rocks, are very red, warm to the touch and painful. Milk may possibly be off-colour. Veterinarians are divided in their opinions as to whether nursing from these infected glands may harm the puppies. Treatment includes antibiotics, massage and manual expression of the gland, warm compresses and may also include surgical drainage and flushing.



Puppies need to be kept in a dry, warm environment that is free of drafts. Care must be taken to keep the ***** from stepping or lying upon the puppies and to ensure that each puppy is adequately cared and fed by the *****, particularly during the critical first three weeks. Newborn puppies are also extremely susceptible to other factors, such as disease and stresses such as physical trauma, infections from less than sanitary conditions, heavy parasite load, and congenital diseases.



Because it has been your decision to produce these puppies, it is your responsibility to make sure that they remain as healthy as possible. This means that your life for at least the first week will not be your own and, hopefully, your family will understand the stress and time constraints upon you. For those of you who are parents, think back to those first few months when it seemed as if you would never get any sleep again. Hopefully, you’ll be able to count upon the support of a partner or hire someone to help you care for the puppies during this time. After the puppies are three weeks old, you will need to start teaching them to eat a type of gruel. This results in extra time spent in preparing the food, cleaning bowls, assisting the puppies, and then in cleaning the puppies after so that skin infections do not occur from left-over gruel. This is, of course, on top of the average of a minimum of two hours a day spent in cleaning the puppy pen, exercising and feeding the mother, handling the puppies so that they become used to people, taking the puppies to the veterinarian for a health check, worming and vaccinations, cleaning the house, etc. Over an eight week period of time, this results in a very minimum of 112 hours.



During this period of time, you will also spend time on the telephone with those people who have reserved puppies and people who want information about puppies that you may have available. This can be from fifteen minutes a day to several hours, dependent upon the people. You will also need to budget money to return phone calls that you may miss.



Once the puppies are weaned, from three to six weeks, time should be spent playing with them, cutting their toenails, carefully examining them to help accustom them to having ears, eyes, mouth looked at. Trusted people and children may come to visit the puppies, but only if you know that their dogs, if any, have been completely vaccinated and they are not carriers of any viruses. Necessary to socialize the puppies, this is also an added cost to your time and expenses, since most of us will serve food and beverage of some sort to our friends.