What is growing on my house plants???

Question

All my house plants now have these weird, white bugs on the leaves! It looks like they are emerging from sticky, white, fibrous nests on the leaf. They don't move and they are about 1-2 millimeters in length with an oval body, many legs and two white antennae. What is this and what do I do?!!

Geez! Not one person got it right! I found out that they are "mealybugs". Not an aphid or a fungus or a spider mite. Thanx for trying though.

Answer 1

They are defiantly mealybugs.If your plant is really infested,I'm sorry but your plant will be a lost cause.If you have other plants check them also. If there are a few of them,then swab them with alcohol.You will have to take each one off with a q-tip soaked in alcohol.

Answer 2

It's called spider mite. I've used an alcohol and water mix to rinse the leaves(75% alcohol-25% water). Also wipe the stems and leaves after you rinse. Make sure you separate the infested plants from the others. There are also pesticides on the market that you can use like, diazinon, or sevin, which you can get at home depot, or any stores that sell plant maintenance products.

Answer 3

They definitely are NOT aphids. It may not be an insect at all but a white fungus which hurts the plant. I would go to your local garden shop and describe the symptoms to find the solution.

Answer 4

It sounds like a whitefly infestation to me. They resemble aphids, but they come from white rings of eggs. The problem with them is that they are actually born pregnant! You get rid of them by spraying them with a soapy insecticide. The soap breaks down the waxy coating that makes their eggs stick to the leaf.
http://www.govlink.org/hazwaste/house/images/whitefly.jpg
You want to get rid of it, or else they will take over your leafy plants and suck it dry.

Answer 5

SPIDER MITES: Tetranychus (Tetranychus) spp., including CARMINE SPIDER MITE, T. (T.) cinnabarinus, and TWO-SPOTTED SPIDER MITE, T. (T.) urticae, Tetranychidae

ADULT: The mites are eight-legged,1/32 in. long, round to oval-shaped and range from whitish with spots to dark reddish-brown in color. They are often found in thin webs on the undersurface of leaves.

EGG: The round, white to tan eggs are deposited singly on the undersurface of leaves often beneath webs. Larvae emerge in 3 to 5 d.

IMMATURE STAGES: The larvae are six-legged and translucent. Most of the actual growth of the mite occurs during this stage. The following protonymph and deutonymph stages are eight-legged and begin to look more like adults in shape and color. The mite goes through periods of inactivity between each of these immature stages. It anchors itself to a leaf or webbing while its new cuticle is being produced beneath the old. It then molts and continues activity until ready to go through another inactive molting period.

GENERATION TIME: 8 to 12 d.

DAMAGE: Mites feed by pushing their stylets into the plant tissue, creating tiny ports through which they feed on plant fluids forced through the holes by turgor pressure. Mite feeding damage appears as yellow stippling between veins on the lower leaves. Entire leaves can become yellow and then brown. By the time lower leaves are killed by mites, they are usually common on the upper leaves as well. Large, damaging populations can develop during hot, dry weather. Cool, wet weather retards population growth and they may enter an extended period of quiescence during periods of extremely high humidity. Potential damage is more prevalent in the central and north growing areas of the state during the summer.

Answer 6

i visit't somewhat count number now on condition that I truly were in this interest of amassing decorative flowers on condition that i became 25 and that i'm sixty 2 now. the finest to save are the cactuses of which I truly have 25 diverse kinds, and the bromeliads. They strengthen lower than the solar, lower than area colorations with any type of composted supplies with backyard soil. Then I truly have diverse fortune flowers and diverse palms.

Answer 7

a combo of dirt particles room spray and dust mices grease in the air from cooking and alot of agents combined circle together and land on your plants just wash the leafs with cold water and one drop of dish soap 1gal. h2o-1 drop soap. use a paper towel not rag. It is called crapola

Answer 8

Sounds like aphids to me!

"Aphids are one of the most common pests that can do a considerable amount of damage to all types of indoor and outdoor plants. The book entitled "Burpee: Complete Gardener", published in 1995 by Macmillan, Inc., describes in the following, the characteristics of the aphid. It says aphids are pear-shaped, soft, and they can be varying shades of white, black, red, gray, brown, yellow, or green. Some aphids develop wings and some do not. These tiny pests often feed on the sap of foliage similar to their body color.

Aphids leave behind a sticky, thick substance known as honeydew. This sticky substance can pose a problem when it becomes black and moldy. It covers foliage to the extent of blocking out necessary light which prevents photosynthesis. This excretion can also create a sticky situation when it drops onto automobiles, windows, lawn furniture, and other outdoor items. Ants are attracted to this substance which adds to the problem.

When checking plants for aphid infestation, check plants having tender new growth. Also, aphids adhere to the undersides of foliage and on new flower buds. These are favorite areas for aphids to dine. Besides the damage aphids cause by extracting a plant's juices, some varieties can spread devastating diseases that are harmful to plants. According to the May 1999 issue of the "Plants & Pests" newsletter, published by Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service of Lake County Indiana, in the article entitled "Aphids Appear in the Spring", which was written by Tom Turpin, Purdue Entomologist, a plant infested with aphids may have leaves that are curled up and unhealthy looking. In addition, plant growth may be stunted.

The website article entitled "Aphid", published by the Virginia Cooperative Extension, provides the following information on the life cycle of the aphid. It says aphids are capable of reproducing without mating, so their numbers can be vast. Fertilized aphid eggs remain attached to plant foliage over the winter months. In the spring, wingless female nymphs hatch and bear live young which also reproduce. During the cool months of autumn, male and female aphids are born, and the males fertilize the eggs that will remain dormant over the winter until the process begins all over again.

There are a number of ways to control aphids. The website article entitled "Aphids", written by Lee Townsend, Extension Entomologist, and published by the University of Kentucky, recommends the following ways of controlling aphids. It says plants should be examined on a weekly basis. If aphids are found on only a few small plants, they can be crushed, or infested foliage can be removed. If this method does not work because the infestation is too great, applications of insecticide. insecticidal soap, or summer oils should be considered.

It is important to carefully read label directions to be sure a particular product is safe for the infested foliage. Most insecticidal products must directly contact the aphids in order to kill them. Large trees that are infested may not be able to sufficiently receive treatments because they are too tall for hose-end sprayers. Commercial sprayers work well, but may be impractical due to cost.

A few insecticides that affect the nervous system of the aphid contain chlorpyrifos, malathion, or acephate. Insecticides containing carbaryl are not recommended because they kill favorable insects that prey on aphids. Also, be certain the product you choose is labelled as effective in killing aphids.

Insecticidal soaps and fatty acid salts are quite effective in killing aphids. They kill the aphids by affecting the insect's cell membranes. The only downfall of these products is that they must come in contact with the aphids in order to kill them. In addition, more than one application is often required.

Summer oils work well on a variety of trees and ornamental foliage. These products do however need to come in contact with the aphids in order to be effective. Another drawback is that during hot summer months, foliage may become burned. Summer oils are not recommended for all plants, so be sure to check product labels for recommendations.

Natural remedies are always the best for controlling aphids or any other problem insect. "Burpee: Complete Gardener" recommends controlling aphids with natural predators such as parasitic wasps, green lacewings, ladybugs, and praying mantids. The same book recommends the use of yellow tacky boards to safely trap and kill aphids."

Answer 9

Throw the plant away before you have a major infestation

Answer 10

thats aphids well all i can say is break out the ladybugs so they get rid of it u can get ladybugs at a gardening store