How do you hook up a Crunch Ground Pounder 1600 Watt Amplifier?

Answer 1

The RCA cables MUST be going up to the deck by themselves, away from the other wires.
You will need a amp ground wire.
REM cable to the deck.
Sub connections.

Answer 2

Crunch 1600 Watt Amp

Answer 3

did not give me much to go on but i'll give it a shot. first decide if your going to use high input or low input. High input is if you hook up your speaker wires too it. or Low input. is the rca type cable from the stereo. hook your speaker wires to the amp. red on red and black on black. or black on (-) and red on (+)
left on left and right on right. USE A FUSE in the power wire. there is a wire or terminal on the amp market ground. or GRND. This is to ground to the Chasis. or NEG batter cable. This is NOT for the speakers wires. you only hook the speaker wires to the stereo NOT the battery. If you see another wire like blue or yellow that says power. this goes to the yellow or blue on the stereo NOT the battery.
if the amp says 4ohm. then you can only use 4ohm speakers or MORE no less if it says.
4 ohm. 6 is ok but 2ohm is NOT ok.
if there is not 4 wire terminals. on the OUTPUT then the NEG (black) (-) goes together. yes the black left and black right. go to the same screw. . then your red wire is left and right.
Do not ground the speakers. to the chasis.
Ground the amp. and the stereo should already be grounded. (black wire) Do not ground the speakers. if you hear a buzzing humming noise. check for a loose wire on the ground to the stereo or amp. you may send questions to [e-mail] I will try to helf further.

Answer 4

Get a good quality set of RCA cables. Normally, a simple pair of shielded RCA's work fine.
Connect a remote turn on lead wire to your "power antenna" or "remote" lead from the head unit. Run the RCA cables, and remote lead, from the head unit, down the middle of the car, or down the opposite side of the car from the power cable. The remote lead will serve as a turn-on for your amp(s). This doesn't have to be very thick wire, 16 gauge is fine. If you have room, you can usually remove the sill plate, and lift the edge of the carpet, and run the cable(s) there, proceeding to the back of the car. Be sure not to put them anywhere they will get crushed by anything. Run all the wires to where the amp will be installed.
Positive Power Cable

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Find a spot to go through the firewall. Look for a plug that's already there. If you find one, you can often make a grommet out of it. If there is none, don't worry. Just find a place to drill, on the same side as the battery, and install a grommet. Run the cable through the firewall, and up to the battery. Don't connect it to the battery till you are all done. Most cars will have grommets large enough to use. Don't worry if there already are factory wires in your grommet, just be careful not to damage them as you run the wire through. One helpful method is to get a long thick probe (an old car antenna mast works great for this). Grind the tip to a point, but don't sharpen it. You can tape your power wire to this probe, and run it through the grommet. If your wire is fairly large compared to the grommet, than you may wish to tape a smaller gauge wire to act as a leader.
Within 6"-18" of the battery, install an in line fuse. For most systems, a 50 or 60 amp fuse is plenty. If it's only a small amp 30 or 40 will do. DO NOT skip this fuse! This one is mandatory! It could stop your car from catching on fire in an accident.
With the wire through the firewall, run the cable to the back of the car, staying on the opposite side of the RCA cables. If you are going to have more than one amp, you want to install a distribution fuse block. Connect the power cable to this fuse block. You then run another cable from the fuse block, to the amps positive (+) terminal.
Be sure to use split loom tubing to protect your power wire under the hood. This is an IASCA requirement. Also, use loom anywhere a wire runs over a rough metal edge. Use wire ties to keep the wire from being drooped over your engine.
This is where most people make mistakes. This is important! First, install a ground cable from the negative post on the battery, to the chassis of the car. If you can reach it, it's best to run it to the firewall, since most cars are a nearly solid sheet of metal from the firewall to the trunk. Make it the same size, or larger than the positive cable. I like to run a 4 gauge or larger to the engine block, AND a 8 gauge or larger to the chassis. Don't be afraid of over kill here. You spent good money on your amps and the rest of your system. Don't skimp on a 2 foot length of cable now. I use 0 gauge cable on my own car to the engine block, and 2 gauge to the chassis. Near the firewall, I also sometimes add a piece of 4 gauge from the block, to the firewall.
Near the amp, install a ground distribution block.
Find a spot as close as possible to this, to connect a ground cable. You can connect it to an existing bolt, or use a self-tapping
screw, or drill, and use a bolt, and nut. If your gonna drill, make sure you don't drill into your gas tank! The main thing is, wherever you do it, make sure you sand off all the paint, and put it right on the bare metal. You can use some Vaseline here to prevent corrosion, and rust.
Now connect the cable from the chassis, to the distribution block.
Run a piece of cable from the distribution block, to the amps negative (-) terminal.
Finishing Up

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Connect the RCA cables to the amp(s). Do not connect them before you have grounded your amplifier, and wait till you connect the battery terminal. Often, the biggest mistake people make is to have their RCA's hooked up the first time their amps get a charge. Since the outer shield of the RCA's are grounded, the amp will try to take some of it's ground through them, damaging the preamp of your radio and amplifier.
Connect your remote lead to the amps remote connection.
Connect your speaker wires to the amp. (That's in a different lesson, but the wires should be run at the same time the amp wiring is done.)
Go back and connect the positive cable to the positive terminal on the battery.
Now, if your amp(s) have gain controls (and most do nowadays) turn them all the way down to the minimum setting. Now turn it just a hair the other way.
If you have built-in crossovers, set them the way you will be using them (hi-pass, low-pass, none, etc.É.). If they are adjustable, put them approximately where you think will be a good starting point.
Turn the key on
Turn on your head unit. Put in a good quality CD, or cassette.
Slowly turn your head unit up to about 80-85% volume. If you hear any distortion, cut it back.
Go back to the amp(s). SLOWLY raise the gain, and LISTEN for distortion. If you reach a point where the volume is louder then you will listen to, before you hear distortion, then stop there. Otherwise, keep going till you hear distortion, and cut it back slightly till it disappears. Remember that volume setting! That is the max. volume you want to play it at.
It’s not a good idea to play the head unit at full volume. That’s where most distortion comes in. It may take you a long time to fine tune your amp(s) gains, and crossovers.
Grab some good CDs (or tapes, if you don’t have CD) and go for a ride. Listen to all types of music, and stop the car, and make adjustments as necessary.
If you have multiple amps, and an equalizer, it will take much longer to get it set the way you want it. But this is the fun part!

Answer 5

you will need to run a set of rca cables from your deck to the sub. ground the sub. run a power cable from the battery to the sub. and run the blue constant wire from the sub to the constant power in your car deck. then you are up and running.
oh hook up the subs to the amp