Oil change - system cleaning?

Question

Earlier when I used to get my oil changes done at Jiffy Lube, I was asked a couple of times if I wanted to get a system cleaning treatment. From the way they explained it sounded like they would drain the old oil, fill it with some kind of a cleaning chemical, wait for half an hour, drain it and then fill the new oil. Of course this would drain me off $40... I always declined. Now I have started to do the oil changes myself and was wondering if I can do this "cleaning" myself?

Is it really beneficial to do this? Would you please recommend a couple of chemicals that are available in market for this purpose?

Answer 1

as long as you keep the oil changed on a regular basis doing that is not needed that's more for higher mileage vehicles and older vehicles,use good oil and you can avoid doing this sometimes doing this will cause gaskets and seals to start leaking,so if its not needed i wouldn't do it,just keep the maintenance up really good on it,and you,ll be alright with it,good luck and have a good new year.

Answer 2

I believe Gunk still markets an engine flush you can get at Walmart or any parts store. Comes in a quart can and you add it to a warm engine and run for about 5 minutes at idle before you actually change the oil. Do NOT drive the vehicle with this in it. Basically, I think it's just kerosene and what it does is loosens up deposits within the engine and thins the oil so when you drain it before changing the oil everything comes out. Make sure you use a new filter and quality oil after doing this. If your engine is older and has a lot of junk in it, it might be better to just sit tight and not worry about a cleaner because it will loosen up stuff that may not be completely drained. If you really want to do it, a complete engine flush would be the way to go and then start doing the cleaner additive in the future when you change your oil.

If you really want to do a complete job, get some BG 44K and add that to your fuel tank. That will clean up your entire fuel system and improve your engine's performance. You only need to do it about once a year.

Answer 3

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Fuel system cleanings are over rated, if you use a quality gas and some systems cleaner on a regular basis you should not need it. As for the oil change, consider using the lightest grade of oil recommended by the owners manual. A lot of drivers will go with the heaver grade "for better protection", but often this is at the expense of damage done to the car at start up. The heavier the oil weight the more friction the oil causes, the more friction the lower the MPG's. There is some truth to the claims made by oil makers that their gas will improve mileage if my experience can be used as proof. But some of these gains are not worth the extra expense. So if the car maker gives you a choice of 10-40w or 5-30w go with the 5-30w. Most cars don't run hot enough to need the heavier weight oil. Now your number may be different, just go with the lightest recommended oil weight/s.

Answer 4

You can do this yourself. The next time you change your oil use Havoline Deposit Shield, Quaker State, Valvoline or Brad Penn. Pick up a quart of Rislone also at any auto parts store or Walmart and a NAPA (Wix) oil filter. Pick up a quart of CRC Crankcase Cleaner at NAPA. Rislone is a very high detergent oil additive and will help to clean up your crankcase as you drive. It costs less than $3.00 at Walmart and the quart of CRC cleaner is another $3.00 The CRC crankcase cleaner helps to disolve sludge and varnish prior to draining the oil.

Drive the car till the oil is hot 20 miles will do the trick. Leave the car running while you run it up on plastic ramps or Jack-stands. Slide the large oil drain pan under the car. Turn the motor off and add the quart of crankcase cleaner. Turn the motor back on and let it idle for 1/2 hr. and turn the motor off. Do not drive the car with the cleaner in the motor. Immediately drain the oil and let it drain for another 1/2 hr. After the motor has cooled off chainge the oil filter. When the 1/2 hr. drain period is up put the oil pan bolt back in and pour in the quart of Rislone first. You must not over fill your crankcase. Finish filling it with your selected motor oil to it's recommended total capacity. Using a pencil flashlite monitor inside the valve cover ocassionally. If it's entirely cleaned up all metal pieces will have no black or dark brown sludge or burned black appearance. If the motor has cleaned up within 3,000 miles, drain it and continue using one of the above oils. If it appears the inside of the valve cover is still black repeat the entire procedure at the next oil change.

Keep in mind that synthetic oil has a much better detergent package than conventional oil. If you can possibly spring for Mobil1 of the correct viscosity so much the better.

This plan works. Good luck to ya,

Answer 5

The best product for this by far cam be found at a Mercury boat store under the name "Power Tune" . The active ingredient here is butyl cellosolve. It is also manufactured as "Oil Sludge Remover" by a German Company named Lubro-Moly. (they also make CV joints for most Euro cars). To use it effectively, spray about 1/2 can directly into your crankcase through the oil filler cap. Also, to tell if you have sludge build-up, look at the back of your oil filler cap. Whatever you see here is what the entire inside of your engine will look like, even the oil pump and oil pressure relief valve. Use the rest of the spray to clean out your PCV valve and hoses, and to clean out your throttle body and any vacuum spigots here. Once installed in the engine, drive it briskly but not harshly for 2 days. The foaming action of the chemical will penetrate and clean all the oil galleries in the engine and restore things to like new condition. If you are mechanically inclined or just feel brave, remove your valve cover(s) and spray generously on your valve train. You will be amazed by the cleaning power of the butyl cellosolve!! After you are sure that things are clean, change oil using Mobil One 0W-40, it has the highest accolades and exceeds nearly all car makers requirements. There are other great synthetics out there, but this is easiest to find. I have restored many engines using this product. It is amazing to watch. It will nearly rebuild a carburetor while you watch it. All engines do their best when things are clean, inside and out. Be sure to shampoo your engine bay at least once a year at a do-it-yourself car wash. Be sure to clean the debris between your radiator and A/C condenser. You will get maximum power and efficiency this way. Good Luck!!! E-mail me with the results!!

Answer 6

A lot of mechanics will do a cleaning especially on the 1st oil change. You can use kero/diesel and just rinse it through the system. It is probably not necessary though, as long as you do a break in oil change then keep up with regular maintenance

Answer 7

it can be beneficial in most cases. but if you sty on top of your oil changes you do not need to do it. if you do feel you need to have it done all you have to get is this stuff called engine flush or another called sea foam and you put it in your oil before you do your oil change and let it run for five minutes then you go ahead with your oil change and thats it

the engine flush is 3-5 dollars at your local parts store
the sea foam is 5 -7 also at your local parts store

Answer 8

If u keep the oil changed at regular intervals say 3000 to 4000 miles u will be alright. And use good quality oil, and a good quality filter. If in doubt talk to your mechanic or refer to your owners manual.

Answer 9

Crankcase Cleaner

Answer 10

DIY is ok. not necessarily essential to do, certainly not often. drain, pour in flushing oil, run motor at fast idle for abt 20 min, drain, refill and change filter. Old, tired motors can die doing this, as the gunk in them "holds them together". Do NOT miss/extend oil changes.