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It depends is the proper answer, but to help you I'd suggest you are looking for exposures lasting between around 1/8 second and 1/2 second. So this means using Neutral Density filters in daylight (to reduce the light entering the camera but not change the colour of the scene), or shooting in low light - indoors or at dusk for example.

You will need to counterbalance the shutter speed you use with an appropriate aperture - and this will depend on the brightness of the scene. So choose a low ISO speed first - 50 or 100. Then meter the scene with a narrow aperture (e.g. f22) and determine your correct exposure / aperture and shutter speed combination that way to set up your camera properly... use an ND filter if required, or find somewhere with lower light levels if necessary.

PS I think you were looking for a formula here. You're much better off learning the techniques of metering and exposure than learning 'formulas'. Formulas can be a useful guide but anyone who says use exposure X for a night sky for example is wrong... ! The sky varies it's brightness according to the state of the moon, the time of day and the meteorology.

So the moral is to get your technique right so you can always get a good image - formulas are often misleading and don't help you to analyse situations so you can work them out yourself and get them right every time.

Hope that helps - good luck!

2007-12-25 23:08:20 · answer #1 · answered by The Violator! 6 · 1 0

Depending on how fast your subjects are moving, you can pan blur starting around 1/125th of a second. Most of the time, it's more effective to pan quite a bit slower than that, say at 1/30th or 1/10th of a second, especially if you have a lens or camera with stabilization/vibration reduction. Depending on the time of day or light available, you could need neutral density filters and stop down to f16 or smaller, or if you're on a high school football field at night, you could be shooting at f4 or wider.

For zoom effects, the slower the better - you might be able to get a slight zoom effect at 1/30th of a second, but it's much easier at 1/10th or slower, with the same deal on f-stops as before.

2007-12-26 09:20:30 · answer #2 · answered by Bryan L 6 · 1 0

"Panning" is a technique for creating the impression of speed. It requires practice since it must be one smooth, continuous motion.

Suppose you are watching a 10K race and want to show the speed of the runners. Find a vantage point with a clear view of the runners and the direction they are coming from. With your camera in Manual Mode and the AF turned off, pre-focus at a spot directly in front of you where the runners will pass by. Set your f-stop to f8 or f11. Make sure your shutter speed is one you can easily hand-hold.

Stand with your feet shoulder width apart and turn your upper body in the direction the runners are coming from. Now "follow" the runners in your viewfinder until they are directly in front of you (where you pre-focused) and release the shutter - and keep "following" them. This must be done in one smooth continuous motion and you must hold the camera in one plane. The runners should be in focus and the background will be a blurred streak. This works with cars and bicyclists as well.

You can create some strange effects by zooming in on your subject. For this you'll need a tripod and a slower shutter speed. With your camera on a tripod compose your picture of a flower or motorcycle or whatever you like. Keep your ISO low - 100 - and use Aperture Priority and set the aperture at f8 or f11 so the camera will set a slow shutter speed of 1 or 2 seconds. Use the camer's self-timer and zoom in on your subject while the shutter is open.

You might enjoy a visit to AIRC-Adorama Imaging Resource Center. Just click on SFX Photography for articles on special effects.

2007-12-26 07:17:54 · answer #3 · answered by EDWIN 7 · 2 0

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