2007-12-23 23:20:14 · 5 answers · asked by lee b 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Motorcycles
throttle slides move fine.
2007-12-23 23:32:46 · update #1
Could be many problems,
If the plates are not exactly set it the throttle bore they will bind the throttle rod from not coming all the way closed. If you try to reset them be very careful its easy to cross thread or strip the small screws holding the plate to the rod. it may require 2 sets of hands one to hold the throttle open and the other to fasten the screws down. The plates have to be centered on both the rod and in the bore
Check for a throttle ajust or set screw ( to far in or out.)
Make sure you have no kinks in the cable and that the cable moves freely in the sleeve. Proper cable length maybe in issue.
Maybe a vacume leak.
If you can't hear it :
Get a can of cheap starting fluid and spray around all the intake and hose connections. The vacume will suck the fluid in and raise the idle (even more), identifing a leaking area.
Only try this on a cold running engine though (before it heats up the block)
Try plugging your PCV hose going to your intake as well . a faulty PCV will cause a leak through the crank case sometimes.
Any leak behind the mass air flow sensor or map sensor will cause a high idle.
Look around the pedal and linkage connections for binding.
2007-12-23 23:53:25 · answer #1 · answered by "Not today, Zurg!" 6 · 2⤊ 1⤋
Ensure that the cables have some free play ie.they may need to be slackened off a bit ....with the engine off check how far you can twist the grip before the slides begin to open ....It sounds as if the inner cables are too tight......... failing that I would ensure that the balance is Ok and all the vacuum hoses etc are connected correctly. If it is sticking at a constant high RPM this is the likely cause...If it is slow to shut down after acceleration and the idle is very slow to drop back down then it is probably a fault within the carbs rather than the cables. Slacken the adjusters off on both the pull cable and the secondary shutoff cable then gradually increase the tension on each until they "feel right" also as a maybe (ensure the jubilee clips are tight enough) as an airleak will cause highrevving.. best of luck with it.
2007-12-24 12:26:08 · answer #2 · answered by davosharpe 2 · 1⤊ 1⤋
If the carbs came from a crashed bike then strip them and check/reset float heights etc as carbs can unsettle quite easily.
Do you mean not closing as the bike is still revving a lot when it should be idling? if so then it can be as simple as removing and re installing them back. My GT550 used to do it all the while, it only has to be a tad out of seat and it causes an air leak past the engine to carb rubbers....makes it run like its on a fast choke.
PS you also have O rings in the carb to engine rubbers on most bikes, may be an idea to change these as they decay and crumble and don't give a proper seal. A cheapskate way around it is to smear a bit of silicone sealer around the outside of the carbs (the bit that sits in the rubbers)...although use too much and the engine ingests it!
Also the last bikes throttle stops or cable adjusters could have been set way out from whatever wear you have in your cables...you could probably adjust it out at the carb end.
Good luck me ole fruit!
2007-12-24 11:15:55 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Remove the cables and check to see if the throttle will close now.
If no - figure out why not.
If it does close - remove the cables from the hand grip and pull the cables by hand.
If it won't close - kinked cables, or routed wrong.
If it will - something with the hand grip - Put the throttle housing back together without the cables to check it's operation.
2007-12-24 16:46:30 · answer #4 · answered by guardrailjim 7 · 1⤊ 1⤋
check the throttle sliders are in correct it maybe not on the pin or lined up with the grove in the side of throttle slider
2007-12-24 07:26:33 · answer #5 · answered by ROBERT S 3 · 2⤊ 1⤋