1 - water:
Water that is piped into homes and available on tap. Tap water may need to be treated for chlorine, chloramine, hardness and pH. Cold tap water is usually fine to be used with sliders, though it should be heated by a fully submersible water heater to the preferred temperature. Avoid using warm tap water because it has to travel through a hot water heater. Some pipes may be corroded or have lead soldering which the hot water will dissolve. Impurities and contaminants, including heavy metals and bacteria, also tend to collect and precipitate in the bottom of heaters. This is the same reason why you should not use warm/hot tap water for drinking or cooking.
2 - food:
To ensure proper nutrition, strong growth and a healthy long-lived turtle, feed a varied diet to both adults and juveniles. Just remember that adults eat less animal protein and more vegetable matter. Juveniles must be fed every day; adults can be fed once every two to three days. Do not feed more than they can eat; the excess food will go to waste and foul the water. Feed a combination of the following foods:
Commercial diets (No more than 25% of total diet)
Trout Chow, commercial floating fish, reptile or turtle food (pellets, sticks or tablets).
Animal Protein (No more than 25% of total diet)
Live feeder fish
Plant Matter (50% or more of total diet)
Offer leaves of dark leafy greens such as collard, mustard and dandelion greens. Offer shredded carrots (and carrot tops), squash and green beans. Thawed frozen mixed vegetables may be used occasionally, but care should be taken as some frozen green vegetables develop thiaminase which destroys that all-important B vitamin. Fruit can be offered raw; shred hard fruits like apples and melons, chopping soft fruits such as berries. To help keep their beak in trim, let them gnaw on pieces of cantaloupe with the (well washed) rind still attached. Check out the edible aquatic plants sold at aquarium stores, too. You can drop these into their enclosure for them to free feed upon.
Vitamin Supplements should be added twice a week. Use a good reptile or turtle multivitamin. Turtles must also be supplied with additional calcium; they often enjoy taking bites out of calcium blocks and gnawing on cuttlebone, so always have some available to them.
3 - temp:
If the room the turtle is being kept in is always over 75 F (23.8 C), then you will only need to heat up a basking area, rather than heating up the room, too. Using an incandescent light or spot light, allow the area closest to the light to reach 85-88 F (29.4-31 C).
4 - water temp:
The water temperature must be maintained between 75-86 degrees F (23.8-30 C). If you buy a submersible pre-calibrated heater, test it first and make sure the water is the proper temperature before you put your turtle in the water. Too cold and it won't eat; too hot and you'll cook it.
A RES will need an easily accessible area that is dry and approximately 10 degrees warmer than the water. This is beneficial as it helps prevent shell infections, allows the turtle to absorb UVA and UVB rays (if they are provided) and thermoregulate.
Exposure to a ultraviolet B (UVB)-producing fluorescent light
The water must be at least 1.5 to 2 times your turtle's total length (called carapace length, or CL) in depth, with several extra inches of air space between the surface of the water to the top edge of the tank to prevent escapes. The tank length needs to be at least 4-5 times the CL, and the front-to-back width should be at least 2-3 times the CL. So, for a turtle who is 4" CL, your enclosure water area must be at minimum 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) deep, 16-20 inches (40-51 cm) in length, and 8-12 inches (20-31 cm) in width. As you can see, if you are going to have a land area at one end as well as sufficient water area, you need something much larger than a 10-20 gallon (38-76 liter) tank.
Watch your turtle for any signs of illness: cloudy, closed or swollen eyes; swollen cheeks; open mouth breathing; bubbly mucous around the nose or mouth; runny stools; loss of appetite; listlessness; spots appearing on plastron (bottom shell), carapace or body; soft shell or excessive shedding.
2007-12-21 21:37:00
·
answer #1
·
answered by Elham Doost 2
·
0⤊
0⤋
Here's information about water:
http://redearslider.com/index_water_quality.html
Food:
http://redearslider.com/index_nutrition.html
Temperature / Heat:
http://redearslider.com/index_lighting_basking.html
I have 2 baby red-eared sliders. Basically I just use regular tap water and keep it at room temperature (75-80 degrees). I feed them Reptomin pellets (you can get it at Walmart). I also have fresh plants from Petsmart in their tank. I also feed them meat, like hotdogs. LoL. They love it. Do NOT feed them live feeder fish though. If one of them has a disease or an illness and you put it in the tank, the turtles will get sick too...........
I got a 10-gallon tank at Walmart that came with 2 incandescent light bulbs and a filter.... all for only $25. Good deal. =)
2007-12-21 15:44:02
·
answer #2
·
answered by ( Kelly ) 7
·
0⤊
1⤋
Red-ears are not my favorite pet turtle, I prefer Painted, Mud, and Musk Turtles- smaller and easier to care for as adults.
Turtles like this want three things:
1. Good water- 10 gallons of water per inch of shell length, warmed to 75-80F, and well-filtered. Clean tap water is fine.
2. Good sun- safe, easy to climb basking sites warmed to 90F. Light the tank well, but allow shady places to hide in.
3. Good diet- 1/2 pellets. and 1/2 live or frozen/thawed fish foods- worms, insects, small fish, shrimp, krill, beef heart, etc.
Try http://www.austinsturtlepage.com for more.
2007-12-21 23:06:43
·
answer #3
·
answered by Madkins007 7
·
0⤊
0⤋