trans change?

Question

i have the opertunity to buy a 69 dodge charger but its an auto trans,i never really cared for automatics, is it seriously difficuilt and costly to convert it to manual using the same engine and would it run like genuine manual ?thanx

Answer 1

All of the answers are about the same and pretty accurate. Depending on the model, engine, and condition you could be devaluing your Charger by changing the trans, but then again it's your car and you can do what you wish. If it has no engine and trans when you acquire it, it's open to change. The old Torqueflite transmissions were/are tough and as long as you kept fluid in them, they would work forever. I acquired a '71 Challenger years ago less engine and trans, originally a 318 auto car it became a 383 four speed (from a rolled '70 Challenger R/T), I've had a lot of fun with it but due to knee problems, I'm changing for a 383 and Torqueflite out of a vandalized '71 Chrysler Newport Custom, when finished it will be a 383 Magnum, column shifted automatic. Still like the four speeds but everyday driving now requires me to change to an automatic or have knee surgery down the road. Anyway think about it, Good Luck with it and have fun safely.

Answer 2

Costly, yes; seriously difficult, not on comparison with a 1970 Chevrolet I used to have. The brake and clutch pedals swing on a common shaft for a fulcrum; you'd have to retrofit the clutch release mechanism, incl. the cross-shaft, and most likely either enlarge the existing shifter hole or cut a new one in the transmission tunnel.

As I understand things, the Charger had bucket seats and a console across the lineup; the optional floor shifter for the Torque-Flite 727 was located not far from the spot the Hurst shifter for the New Process four-speed would have occupied. Many racers retrofitted Borg-Warner or Tremec "toploader" gearboxes (orig. built for Ford Motor Co.) due to specific engineering issues with the New Process gearboxes. Richmond Gear has five- and six-speed gearboxes (which ship with a Long Machine & Tool shifter) and bellhousings to fit the application; be sure to get the correct weight flywheel for your engine and a clutch that can handle the engine's torque. Lakewood/Mr. Gasket is a second source for bellhousings, and theirs meet SFI shatter-containment requirements adopted by several racing organizations.

Answer 3

Sure you can do it but you will have to cut the car's floor. I'm not sure if the pedal assembly can be bolted or will have to be welded. Then you'll need the transmission of course, a floor shifter, a different bell housing, maybe a different starter and flywheel (not sure about this) and you'll have to either re-size your driveshaft or get a new one made up.

Then you'll have to think about the rear end ratio you have in there and whether you want to change that from one that was suitable for an auto to one suitable for a stick shift. Automatic differential generally offer more economy but not as much acceleration potential.

I'd imagine $2K-$3K to do this whole thing.

Answer 4

Switching over to manual is not that difficult for that era of vehicle. It does require getting a new/salvaged pedal assembly, though. You need a clutch pedal and all that goes with the clutch assembly. Not a whole lot more to it than that, except for the bell housing and transmission, flywheel, driveline, rear end(optional). Run like a genuine manual? Is there any other way?

Answer 5

Joe is correct - you would need to weld in a different center section for the shifter

I think your best bet here would be to find a donor car and get everything at once - you can then also take pictures on how it goes together - you can also get the shifter hump torched out at the same time

Answer 6

after you get tranny and all related parts 1500 to 3000 dollars it will cost 750 to1000 to have it instaled..motor is not connected [running wise ] to tranny