Not very hard at all....
Remove.....
the oil dipstick and its pipe.
the splashguard under the engine.
Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump. Hang up at the rear. Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.
Removing the oil sump
Slacken off all screws holding the oil sump.
Remove all screw except for four. It is recommended that the four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place.
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the four remaining screws.
Remove the sump.
Cleaning
Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block. Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161 440.
Installing the oil pan
Apply liquid gasket 1161 059–9 to the sump. Use roller 951 1205.
Install
new O-rings.
the oil sump. Secure it loosely with a few screws.
the remaining screws loosely.
Press the sump against the transmission. Tighten the screws (1), (2), (3) and (4) to 3 Nm . First tighten the screws (5) to 25 Nm . Then tighten to 48 Nm .
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm . Start at the transmission and continue forwards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump. Use new O-rings.
Reinstall the pipe on the sub-frame.
Install
a new oil filter.
the oil plug with a new gasket.
the oil dipstick and its pipe. Use a new O-ring.
Note! Check that the O-ring is correctly positioned.
Fill with engine oil. Run the engine to operating temperature.
Check for oil leaks from the oil sump or oil cooler.
Install the splashguard under the engine.
Check the oil level. Top up if required
2007-11-28 09:20:55
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answer #1
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answered by Volvo-Guru 3
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1998 Volvo S70 Sedan
2016-11-07 04:32:53
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answer #2
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answered by ? 4
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i imagine your vehicle will be ok because it would not sound like it boiled over or the engine were given truly warm. do not comprehend how lengthy you drove with the hollow on your pan yet which could be a large element in even in the journey that your engine has been damaged. with reference to the pan, it can be extraordinarily severe priced in case you had to purchase a pan from a Volvo broking service (presented they're nonetheless obtainable). you are able to opt for to check out having the pan repaired by brazing the hollow closed. this can grant you with a pan almost as solid as a sparkling one at far decrease value. Get the pan fastened or replaced, fill up the oil and go from there. basic procedures to ensure if the engine continues to be solid is tocontinual the vehicle and note how issues exercising recurring. Odds are it is going to likely be high quality till you drove it a lengthy time period without oil.
2016-10-25 04:09:26
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answer #3
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answered by ? 4
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better left to the dealer or volvo specialist. special gasket liquid is required cause it doesnt use an actual gasket---see volvo guru's answer for part #. the o-rings are kinda tough to keep in place and if they are pinched or not in right it'll leak. you should use the engine lift to raise the engine a little also. the gasket material is anabolic and is rolled on like paint with a roller.
good luck !!
2007-11-28 15:32:20
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answer #4
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answered by mortons69 3
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They aren't hard to do as long as you get something to scrape off the gasket from the bottom of the engine block, and make sure you have a good clean surface to mate the new oil pan to.
Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Loosely the first pass. Then do a second pass to tighten the bolts to torque specs.
2007-11-28 07:44:23
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answer #5
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answered by hsueh010 7
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Check the price for the pan first before getting to excited to do this job.Secondly yes guru is dead on with his step by step instructions but if your not doing this on a lift and your doing it on the ground your in for a boatload of fun.On the lift its a very simple procedure on the ground yeah welll lets just say dont have the kids around while your doing it.
2007-11-29 14:54:50
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answer #6
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answered by butchdalton 4
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