Continuous versus flash lighting for studio work: The 'ALZO' claim?

Question

I found a website for "ALZO" floodlights; this company boasts a new 'cool light' that they claim is better for studio digital photography than flash. However, the prices are outrageous. A three light set up with softboxes for $2,000 to $5,000. Is there any truth to their claim, and if so, are there alternatives to THEIR products? I find it hard to believe they've developed a floodlight that is so superior to any other.

Answer 1

I believe the point Kevin was trying to make is that continuous lighting has to be VERY bright to enable small aperture or high shutter speed at ISO 100... And that while continuous lighting does not limit your shutter in terms of sync speed, it may limit your overall power capabilities. It is much more difficult from a technical and power standpoint to achieve a constant output level than a strobed output level. You're not going to find a cheap option to give constant light at small aperture, fast shutter, and low ISO for a large subject.

Even if you get hot lights that have the power to shoot at f/16, ISO 100, 1/100sec, your model may get a bit squinty, just as he/she would on a sunny day staring at the sun.

Kevin also seems to be referring to the fact that flash duration can be MUCH shorter than shutter duration, allowing a photographer to stop motion with the strobe light in situations in which it would be impossible to do so with the shutter. For instance, my AB1600 at full power has a flash duration of a mere 1/1800sec. Thus, I can stop motion with the flash at that speed rather than being limited by my shutter, which can be rendered almost irrelevant in this case if the flash is powerful enough relative to the ambient light.

So even though the sync limit on most cameras limits the available shutter speed, strobes often offer better motion-stopping options than hotlights.

The only proviso to what Kevin is saying is that studio strobes typically have a shorter duration at full power than at lower power-levels. This is counter-intuitive, but you can see this from the specs of many manufacturers. For instance, my AB1600's flash duration lengthens to 1/900sec at 1/32 power. Strange, but true.

Answer 2

frankly I prefer using continuous lighting simply because what I see is what I capture. with flash you always have to deal with shadows created by the flash and take that into account when getting ready for the shot. But these aren't the only options available for continuous shooting. When you light for shooting a movie you are using continuous lighting... the down side is that the lights tend to generate lots of heat. Not something a model or person getting their family portrait would enjoy.

In fact there are benefits to continuous lighting you wont have with flash... that's the shutter speeds that are available. With a flash you're limited to the fastest speed that the camera can sync to the flash maybe as slow as 1/250 of a second... with coninuous you can go as fast as your cameras shutter... I'm not sure what the first guy is talking about but he doesn't seem to understand the connection between the flash and camera very well... maybe he's trying to sell equipment from B&H.

Back to your question... The company you are looking at is just selling some lights that don't produce the heat that is a problem with other continuous lights... I've no clue if they work as well as but you can certainly get much cheaper continuous lighting than what that company is selling... I've seen other cool lighting for as little as 120 dollars (VU-PRO COOL-4, you can google it if your interested) that included the lights and umbrella...for me I prefer using halogens and just deal with the heat.

Answer 3

Well, I think that the rep from B&H is referring to the techniques of high speed photography. Truth be told, leaf shutters don't have a sync speed, so theoretically you could use any shutter speed you desire, but rarely do camera shutters run upwards of 1/10,000 of a second, which is necessary to stop things like liquids. In any case, a strobe lighting system that can achieve 1/10,000 of a second and above can be utilized in a dark room with your shutter open before the light flashes. Unfortunately, most lighting equipment that's capable of that is fairly expensive. If you don't want to get into the several thousands range, it has to be a qflash or a speedlight, which honestly aren't nearly as effective and very limiting.

Answer 4

Without checking out the product in specif, I suspect that they are talking about HMI lighting, which is of the type used on studio film and video production. Unlike tungsten lights, its color temperature is close to daylight. HMI is not true continuous lighting, but a very rapidly repeating flash. This matching of daylight is one advantage, power efficiency is another, and a less heat imparted to the subject is still another. However, some photographic systems have trouble with the inherent way HMIs function.

Answer 5

Continuous light can not stop action any faster than the setting you have placed on your camera (1/60, 1/500 etc). If you use flash photography you can get stopping speeds at 1/50,000 or faster depending on the flash lighting your are doing and the duration of the flash. The lower the power setting the faster the stopping power.

You can get yourself a complete studio flash outfit for under $500 that should cover most of your basic needs. If you are not trying to light a 18 wheeler indoors you should be fine.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/

Hope this helps,
Kevin

Answer 6

I've shot with many big-name studio products. Most I used (rented) were extremely frustrating to use. The controls were counter-intuitive and it really got in the way of what I wanted to do.

I invested in a set of Alien Bees and I LOVE them. Not only are they a fraction of the price of the big names, but they have better controls, better warranty, and unbelievably good customer service. I've had orders that they got onto the UPS truck literally within minutes of placing the order.

They're $225 to $360 for their traditional design monolights. If you're really considering the packages you listed, and have that kind of a budget, consider getting one of AB's big packages and go to town.

Also buy the book Light: Science and Magic. http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240808193/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195493660&sr=8-1