I am really stumped. I can't figure out why when I press down on one side the other side bows upward. The old sink just slid into place with no problem. I used a level and it appears level. The old sink was the same length and it fits perfectly length wise. The new sink may have a very slight bow to it doesn't appear to be the cause. The old sink was smaller so I had to enlarge the width of the hole. The edging for the screws to secure it are now fitting below the counter top. So I think it should be a large enough hole now.
2007-11-11 13:00:55 · 7 answers · asked by I'm alive .. still 5 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
I think you've already suggested Clues or an answer.
The first thing to check; which you did; suggests it isn't the counter top; hence the next check would be the sink. The fact that you had to enlarge the drop in shouldn't be an issue at all.
Without knowng at all the substance of the sink; IE: Stainless; etc. ...But knowing that "perfect" isn't always a reality in any production; and not knowing the BRAND; OR where it was manufactured; I'd probably just return it for another.
Steven Wolf
2007-11-11 13:11:32 · answer #1 · answered by DIY Doc 7 · 2⤊ 0⤋
I personally would start tightening it down from the center and work my way to the outer edges. A sink is a sink, no secretes on installing. no stripping of anything if the sink fits and you are not high siding at a point because the hole is to small do like I said and put it in the hole after you put your adhesive caulk down and tighten up. Been a plumber for over 30 years nothing has changed that much that if what you are telling us is true you can get it set.
Now one other thing you from your description are talking about either a stainless steel or porcine on steel sink right? You just have to be a little more careful with the porcelain on steel sink because of the coating of porcelain.
2007-11-11 23:49:13 · answer #2 · answered by Ray Y 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Firstly use outdoor varnish on the new cut edge of the countertop, this prevents water entry, Throw away the sealing strip that came with the sink, and use plumbers mastic compound instead. Get a piece of 3/4 scrap plywood for going across the top of the new sink, and place heavy concrete blocks on top the make the sink "sink" into the mastic which will have squeezed out by now. Now tighten all the fittings underneath. I have found that this method seems to work.
2007-11-11 21:58:59 · answer #3 · answered by xenon 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Flush Sink
2016-10-31 13:36:29 · answer #4 · answered by aurie 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
try installing it by applying a downward force at the center of the sink bottom, while you alternately tighten the screws in a circular pattern. Sometimes SS sinks are made of light gauging and tend to bow ever so slightly.
2007-11-11 13:07:48 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 2⤊ 0⤋
Did you use the seal between the sink and worktop?.
2007-11-11 20:06:53 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
There are tricks to all trades.
2007-11-11 20:03:52 · answer #7 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋