how to put up backsplash in mobile home.. PLEASE HELP!!!?

Question

I just bought a mobile home and the sheetrock around the bathtub is super soft and has to be replaced! But instead of putting up more sheetrock and it becoming soft agian I wanted to put up a plastic backsplash but I have no idea how to do it. Do I put more sheetrock up and put the backsplash on top of it or what??? Please help!!

Answer 1

If the original sheetrock is damaged enough to be soft, then, yes, it should be replaced.

Typically, in a mobile home, the sheetrock is put on the walls before the tub is installed. If this is a standard tub, like found in most hall baths, there will be some white vinyl trim that runs around the tub itself, and is probably caulked, where the trim meets the wall, and occasionally where the trim overlaps the tub. The tub itself will have a small lip, running around it, with screws that secure the tub to the walls.

Use a utility knife to score the caulk at the trim/wall. This trim is installed, usually, with pin nails, or occasionally, narrow crown staples. A flat putty knife is handy to pry the trim away from the wall, and a pair of slip joint pliers is handy to pull the nails out of the trim afterwards (then you can re-use the trim later after cleaning it up).

Once the trim is removed, you can access the screws holding the tub to the wall. Youve got a choice here... you can pull the tub out, and replace the entire sheetrock, or you can use that utility knife and a drywall saw to cut the sheetrock along the edge of the tub. I would recommend that you go ahead and replace the entire sheetrock.

To pull the tub itself, you will need to unhook the plumbing, and remove the screws that secure it to the wall. The drain can be accessed from under the floor. If you need to remove the sheetrock from around the tub faucet, and shower head, then the handles, shower head, and escutcheon, will need to be removed...but not the actual valves. Now... if this is a 'pedestal' or 'platform' tub...often referred to as a 'garden tub'... you can reach in under the tub, thru an access panel to get to the screws holding it in place... or, again... you have the option of just cutting the sheetrock off at the point where it meets the 'deck', or tub. You might think you don't have enough room to pull the tub out, because the toilet, or sink is in the way.... if you have the standard acrylic tub tho, there is a small trick... that front panel that you step over to get into the tub, is actually a bit flexible.... you can bend it forward just enough to twist the tub up and out of where it sits (its actually pretty light, and easy to lift) Garden tubs usually have enough room around them to be moved around at will, fairly easy.

The sheetrock is glued to the walls, as well as stapled. Throw down a layer of plastic in the tub, to protect it.

For quick and easy tear out of sheetrock.... I will use a utility knife to score a square in the sheetrock, between the studs... then cut an X inside the square. (make TWO squares if this is a wide piece) Use a hammer and strike the center of the X, and the sheet rock will snap along the lines into the wall... a little clean up of the hole, and now you have two handles to help pull the sheetrock off the wall. (put those squares at a comfortable height to work with.... say, about chest high, on whoever is going to pull it off the wall) Score a line across the sheetrock, horizontally, somewhere below waist height, and it will 'fold' itself along that line, making it easier to pull off the wall. Ive done this quite a few times...and you will find that it actually takes longer to get TO the point of pulling the sheetrock off the wall, than it actually does to pull it off, hehehehehe.

Once the old sheetrock is removed (in mobile homes it is usually 3/8" to 1/2" thick) you will need to spend just a few minutes pulling those staples out of the wall studs, and scrape off any excess glue still on the studs. (Most manufactured housing uses an expanding foam type of glue, but some do use construction adhesive). If its the foam type glue, you will find it scrapes off pretty easily with a putty knife. If it is construction adhesive, then a sharp chisel works very nice - safety tip... always keep your hands BEHIND the chisel....one slip, and you can slice open a thumb pretty quickly, hehe)

Wear safety glasses throughout this entire process to keep the flying debris out of your eyes ;)

Ok....now that the old sheetrock is out, and the studs are cleaned up, you are ready to put some new sheetrock up. I would recommend 1/2" sheetrock... with a moisture resistant surface... this is usually called "greenboard" (because the paper on the sheetrock is usually a light green in color) This costs just a bit more than the regular sheetrock, but holds up much better in a humid environment. Trim the sheetrock to fit where it will go. Remember, you will need to cut holes for the plumbing on the piece that installs at the head of the tub. This can be done easily with a small drwyall saw, sometimes called a keyhole saw. A quick and easy way to get the location for these, is to use a piece of cardboard, or kraft paper...cut the holes in this, slip it over the fixtures, and measure down the wall stud to the paper... then transfer that to the sheetrock. =D
If this is a garden tub in a deck, then the plumbing usually comes thru the tub, or up out of the deck, as opposed to being thru the wall.
To glue the sheetrock to the wall, I like to use a construction adhesive... get all the holes cut, and the drywall cut to fit, before actually applying any glue. Use the caulk gun and tubes for it... and just apply a bead of glue to the wall stud itself, then press the sheet rock in place, and you can either shoot a narrow crown staple (air powered) thru it, or even use sheetrock screws. If using staples, then you want to put one in about every foot, down the wall. Sheetrock screws can be spaced farther apart. Really, all you need to do, is secure the sheetrock til the glue sets, and then the glue will hold it.

One note here... while the sheetrock is off the wall... this is a good time to examine the studs... see if any of them need to be replaced, due to bowing, etc. If you need to do that, email me, and I'll be happy to walk you thru it.

ALSO - examine the area for mold and mildew... you may have some if the area has been wet, and stayed wet for any length of time. There are a few products out there that can kill, or encapsulate, the spores. A 50/50 mix of bleach and water will kill mold/mildew, but some folks find that too 'harsh' to work with (my wife is allergic to bleach, for example). There are several methods, as I said, to handle this if there is a problem... and most can be found at your local building supply or hardware store.

After the sheetrock is put up, you want to consider what kind of surface treatment you want to use... since you mention using 'plastic... this is where you would install it. You can find many different kinds of surface materials to use here.... from fiberglass sheets, to acrylic tub surrounds... all fairly easy to install. They just glue to the wall, usually...you can ask for specific installation instructions where you buy them from. You will want to use a 'mastic', contact cement, or other 'spreadable' glue, in most cases. A few of them can be installed using construction adhesive too... just dont apply it in too thick a bead, heheh... or you'll have a lump in the surface. A quick note here -- before starting all this work... measure the distance from your tub to the ceiling.... you may not be able to get a 'tub surround' tall enough to go the whole distance, as some of these kits are made to just be applied without removing the tub first. So you want to know where to put it, if it doesnt run full length. If the sheetrock wasnt soft, then I would have suggest that you just get some sheets of this type of material, or a tub surround, and simply apply it over the existing sheetrock.... since it is soft tho... I strongly recommend replacing it.

Reconnect all the plumbing, put the knobs back on, shower head and escutcheon, etc...

Last step is to replace the trim -- when you removed the trim initially.... it sometimes helps to number it on the backside... and either sketch out its location on a piece of paper, or mark the wall...since you may be tearing out the wall.. .a sketch may make more sense, hehehe. I like to use a pin nailer (also called a brad nailer) to install trim. If you don't own one, you can rent a nailer and compressor for not too much. I also like to use the 'bright white' tub and tile caulk that comes in the squeeze tubes... this matches the color of most of that vinyl trim pretty closely. Apply a small bead of caulk along the edge of the trim, and you can even use it to cover the brad nails, or any small holes in the vinyl trim.
A handy trick when using latex caulks - wet your finger, and then run it along the caulk... this feathers it out nice and smooth... may take a bit of practice to judge how much caulk to use, etc... but is pretty easy. The latex caulk cleans up with soap and water, and cures quickly too. Quick rule of thumb.. I use silicone caulk OUTSIDE the home... acrylic/latex caulk INSIDE the home.

Whew! Long post, lol... feel free to email me if you have any further questions - Ive done a lot of work in manufactured homes.

I could do this entire job in a single day, with time to spare... but Ive had a lot of practice at it. If you are used to doing a lot of projects like this around the home, it is quite easily something you can tackle yourself. A lot of times it is simply knowing how manufactured houses are put together, that makes the difference in how easily the job can be done. I was once called out to a home... the gentleman had taken a weeks vacation to replace his tub -- at the end of the week, he still hadnt managed to pull it out, hehehe...and was at his wit's end, and very frustrated. In 45 minutes I had the old tub out, and the new one installed - lots of practice, hehehe... I told him afterwards...." I should have made that look harder"... lol.

Have Fun =D

Answer 2

Call a local plumber to put it up for you. The cost to pay the plumber is not going to be as much as the aggrevation and labor involved. You could probably get away with hiring a handyman to do it as well.

Basically, the plastic tub surround is plastic and water resistant. It just fits around the tub and slides neatly into place.... in a perfect world.

However... It will need to be fitted and cut to make room for your plumbing fixtures to poke through it. The cutting must be done when the surround is installed because no one knows where your fittings will need to come through.

Then.... you must use a very specific quality adhesive that will withstand constant exposure to moisture and steam. The cheaper ones will hold... temporarily, but over time will start to allow the tub surround to peel and move away from the wall.

This will open your wall up to mold and mildew growth and will look black and green and terrible.

This is why I suggested hiring a plumber.

Have the plumber look at the job. Go with them to pick out a tub surround that you like.... and then let them install it.

This will be quick, neat, and the most cost effective way to go. You want this done right so that you dont get water damage in your home and have to replace walls and floors.

At least find a family member/friend that has done this before and ask them to help you if you do decide to install it yourself.

Answer 3

If it has a plastic shower surround up now you need to remove it. Why is the sheet rock soft would be my concern. Is your shower head or plumbing leaking down the wall? Was it just sheet rock painted with no shower surround on it? If it isn't a leak then you just need to take out the old sheet rock, replace it with new, manufactured for bathrooms, then put up a tub surround. You can get the ones that dont require a backing but they are more expensive and i'm not sure if they are made to fit mobile home shower/tub sizes. Sadly they manufacture most things in mobile homes smaller than normal sizes so its often times a trick getting things to fit right.
Good luck, we bought an newer but not taken care of mobile home and have spent the last year redoing most of it. Its possible with time and patience. I have bought things from the website below. Quick service and good products and pricing.

Answer 4

In almost all cases, the opportunity and problems of drywall are the same for mobile homes as for site built houses. However, in a mobile home, the weight is a concern. If you are replacing wood paneling with sheetrock, you are adding a lot of weight for which the home was not designed. In that situation I would suggest you consider wainscotting or some other lighter weight wall treatment and limit the sheetrock to the top half or 2/3's of the wall.

Answer 5

There are a lot of issues with mobile homes. The variables include the state you live in as well as local ordinance. If it is considered a "mobile home" then the registration and taxation go through the County Treasurers office via the Department of vehicle registration. Same as cars, trucks, and boats. If it is on a lot away from a park and is on a foundation then it is through the county clerks office. You can draw up a Quit Deed and ask your Aunt to sign it, but if she has some reason she doesn't want it out of her name you need to address those concerns. Regardless of who ended up with the trailer you or her they may or may not be an inheritance tax but that would have occurred the first tax season after the death of your Uncle. But I don't think there is such a thing as inheritance tax on a trailer; probably the county would require the new "owner" to pay a sales tax fee for transfer of ownership. You don't indicate how old you are or why its such a bother for your Aunt to have her name on it. Maybe you want to sell it and she doesn't think that is a very good idea??? Regardless, until she is willing to sign it over or take her name off the registration there isn't much you can do.