Automobile restoration is the process of repairing a car to return it to essentially the same condition that it was in when it left the factory at time of manufacture. It should include not only repair of the parts that can be seen – the body, the trim, the chrome, the wheels, the dash board and accessories and the passenger’s compartment – but the parts that are not necessarily visible or otherwise evident, including the engine and the engine compartment, the trunk, the frame, the driveline, and all ancillary parts like the brakes, accessories, engine cooling system, electrical system, etc. Besides repairs done to correct obvious problems, repairs are also done for cosmetic reasons. For example, even if a wheel is covered by a hub cap and not seen, and is structurally sound, it should have the tire unmounted, then any required repairs such as rust removal, straightening, priming and painting.
A complete auto restoration should include total removal of the body, engine, driveline components and related parts from the car, total disassembly, cleaning and repairing of each of the major parts and its components, replacing broken, damaged or worn parts and complete re-assembly and testing. Each and every part should be thoroughly examined, and either cleaned and repaired, or if repair of the individual part would be too costly, replaced (assuming correct, quality parts are available). All of the parts showing excess wear or damage that were originally painted should be completely stripped of old paint, any rust or rust related damage repaired, dents and ripples removed and then the metal refinished, primed and painted with colors to match the original factory colors. Wooden parts should go through the same meticulous inspection and repair process with regluing, replacement of rotted or termite-damaged wood, sealing and refinishing to match the factory specifications. Chrome and trim may require stripping and repair/refinishing. The frame must be thoroughly cleaned and repaired if necessary. Often sand-blasting of the frame is the most expeditious method of cleaning. The frame should be painted or powder-coated to match the original. An idea of the sort of work that must be undertaken can be viewed here
2007-11-05 07:35:25
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answer #1
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answered by sexysaraxx 4
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Jack the rear end up and set the axle tubes on jack stands so that the tires/wheels are off the ground. The front wheels/tires should be chocked so the car will not roll forward or backwards.
After you do this you can remove the tires/wheels. Then remove the differential cover. Lots of gear oil will pour out so keep a pan under it when loosening the bolts.
Once the cover is off you can rotate the differential around until you see the head of a bolt that is on one side of the differential. Remove this bolt and then the large steel pin that this bolt retains. (The pin separates the two axle tips)
Once this big pin is out you can shove the axles inward slightly and then pull the "c-clips" off the axle tips and this will free the axle(s).
If you want to pull the whole rear end off then you'll have to set the frame of the car on the jack stands and remove the driveshaft and u-bolts that hold the rear end to the springs or a-arms (if it has rear independant suspension). You will also have to remove the emergency brake cables and brake lines, shoes, and hardware.
All of these things are heavy and hard to move around. If the u-bolts are too rusty then you will have to cut them off with a torch or a sawzall or pneumatic grinder/cut off tool.
I had to use a massive 3/4" ratchet set to remove the u-bolts on a 1976 Suburban and I'd rather have cut the u-bolts off and replaced them since it requires a whole lot of sweat and patience.
I'd still prefer to pull the axles out first and then drop the rear end minus the axles. This splits the weight in half and gives you some control over the gear oil.
Gear oil does burn so don't get a torch near it.
Good Luck!
2007-11-05 07:58:35
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answer #2
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answered by CactiJoe 7
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To remove the rear end you start by lifting and supporting the vehicle and then remove the drive shaft, shocks, upper / lower control arms or leaf springs. Unhook the brake flex line from the frame to the top center of the axle and the emergency brake cables. Roll the axle out and then disassemble by removing the tire/wheel and then the brake drums. Remove the diff cover bolts 10 or 12 of them depending on the axle and drain the gear oil. Rotate the carrier till you can remove the 12 point headed 5/16" bolt and then push out the spider gear pin. This will allow you to rotate out the top and bottom spider gears followed by pushing "in" on each axle and removing the "C" clip on the side spiders. Then slide the axle out of the housing. PS you have either a GM 10 bolt or 12 bolt axle and is defined by the # of bolts holding on the rear cover. 12's are stronger but the 10 is cheaper to repair. Go to the parts store and buy a HAYNES manual for your car as it will cover this.
2007-11-05 07:48:18
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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drain rear end take reartires off put car in nuteral remove boltpush in axle remove c clips remove shafts try not to move spider gear
2007-11-05 12:58:55
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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