with the I-6 engine. It was brought to my shop for an intermittent no start. What happens is it will start and run all day long, when you shut it off after it has warmed up for say 20 minutes, it will not restart unless it sits for appx. 20-30 minutes. It has no spark when it acts up, there are no codes, it has power to the coil, ignitor, ECU, and the relay appears to be fine. After further checking, it loses signal to the ignitor from the ECU yet the wiring between checks ok. I also, as far as I can tell, have good signal from the pick-up coil in the distributor. I have checked and even added extra grounds with no success. I have replaced the ignition coil, ignitor, and gave it a "known good" ECU. Does anyone else have any good ideas on what could be causing this and what I might need to check? Matches and gas are not an option......yet.
2007-11-02 14:24:45 · 4 answers · asked by metal706 4 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Car Makes ➔ Toyota
It has no codes before, during, or after the concern.
2007-11-02 14:36:34 · update #1
With all the information that is available to me....this system has no resistor wire or ballast resistor. The wiring diagrams I have, the ignitor gets its signal from the ECU on pins 3 and 22. It has no separate crank circuit like our American made vehicles.
2007-11-02 15:12:12 · update #2
The only experience I've had like that was with a GM HEI setup. The solid state module in the distributor opened up when it got hot. But it would quit running and not restart until it cooled down. Does it have a resistor or resistance wire in the coil circuit for starting? The old Fords used a contact in the starter solenoid to short around the resistance wire for starting to provide a full 12 volts to start then dropped it back to 6 volts to run. If it has a circuit like that I'd look at that. Perhaps that circuit is dropping out when it gets hot and since it's only used during starting it will run fine while the engine is hot.
2007-11-02 14:37:49 · answer #1 · answered by mustanger 7 · 0⤊ 1⤋
The magnetic pickup which sends a signal to the ignitor sounds bad.
Heat soak prevents the pickup from sending the correct signal to the ignitor..resulting in no spark until it cools down.
Odd it wont shut off after reaching a certain temp, since most will..but it may get worse after time goes on, and shut down on it's own.
Some vehicles use the magnetic pickup, and some use optical pickups. Toyotas tend to go with the magnetic, but check to make sure.
Usually a Chiltons book will describe a test where you hook a voltmeter to two particular wires from the distributor, and then rotate (the distributor) by hand. The passing of the magnet against the pickup will induce a small amount of voltage in the wires which you can see in an analog voltmeter. There is also an adjustment to set the proper air gap between the pickup and the posts. There will be two sensors usually...one to sense the firing orders, and one to sense engine RPM's.
2007-11-04 04:35:47 · answer #2 · answered by Mechengnr 3 · 1⤊ 1⤋
This sounds like a heat related failure of the electronics. I am not able to tell you which component is doing this, but here are some thoughts for further troubleshooting.
The cool engine starts, runs, warms up and while it is running something is expanding to break contact, or to make contact.
What is necessary for starting that is not necessary for running?
Can one of the wires be heating up and making or breaking contact because it is cracked inside the insulation?
Sorry that I can't be more helpful. Perhaps the wiring schematic for the vehicle will help you isolate the one little silly *ss thing that is screwing up.
2007-11-02 14:40:40 · answer #3 · answered by Schtupa 4 · 0⤊ 1⤋
sounds like your on it by chance did you put it on the tester try that and see what she reads my friend good luck
test it before and after it stops
2007-11-02 14:29:55 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋