Nikon D40 - Sports mode not helping?

Question

It seems like everyday i have a new problem with this camera which is probably mostly cuz i dont know how to fully use it yet but, my problem today is BLURRY PICTURES! I have a 14 month old son and i am finding him incredibly hard to shoot. Today he was running around in the yard in his costume and everytime that he would move (after i had focused the camera by halfway pushing down the shutter, and was ready to push it down fully) i would end up with a blurry picture with and/or colortrails. So, i tried moving the dial to sports mode and I STILL had the same results. [ on my camera when you choose sports mode, it gives you an example of a motion shot caught flawlessly, but this is not the case for me] SO, my question is, if sports mode is intended for motion shots, then why doesnt it work? And if i want to be able to shoot in P-mode so that i have full control over my pictures, then how can i get clear pictures even when my subject is in motion ( like a child playing outside?

I like to think of myself as a pretty good photographer, and I have just recently bought this Nikon D40. I had a Sony f717 and traded it... now i sorta regret it... I am still learning with a "real" dslr but I am dissapointed in the performance of the camera so far. I have 2 websites with examples of my photography (mostly taken with the f717) but i just would like my helpers to see where i am coming from becuz i take my photography very seriously and i am extremely interested in getting help so that i can use this new camera to my best advantage - i would love some feedback good or bad
www.myspace.com/janelle84
www.flutterbynight84.deviantart.com

Answer 1

Based from this and your previous question, I would think that you need a better learning on terminology and basic principles of photography. The manual will be a good start. I know that you've read the manual as you stated before - but this time try to read it slowly, one part of a time and try to master what you've just learn from the manual with your camera.

But to answer your question... let me see.

There are rules in photography that your minimum shutter speed should be 1/focal length of your lenses. That is, if you zoom your lens to 50mm, then you shouldn't go slower than 1/50 seconds especially if you're shooting a moving object.

Since light condition may vary, I know this might not be possible all the time so this is what I do.

If it's daylight and I'm taking pictures outside, then I can freely use the Shutter priority mode (S) and just put my shutter speed on 1/125 and everything will be fine. If I'm using my tele lens, then I would have to increase the speed.

If I'm taking pictures indoor or at night, then I would put my tele lens away, and use the Aperture priority mode (A) and just use the largest aperture possible. Since light condition also varies, I usually would have to use flash except when I'm shooting at a distance, at which I would just approach the subject I want to shoot because flash wouldn't be much of a help on a distance anyway. So basically, if I'm not using flash, I would use A mode, and if I'm using flash, I would generally use the manual mode and pick the largest aperture and shutter speed between 1/30-1/60 depending on what lenses I use.

Also increasing your ISO might help - I think you can safely set your ISO to 400 without noticeable grain/noise.

Answer 2

I remember when I first started using computers. You had to load an entire program into memory and add DATA lines to store information. Then you saved the program. When I got a new computer that used... (What do you call those things??? Oh yeah.) ...floppy disks, you could make the program save the data to disk without rewriting any DATA lines. After using a computer for two years, I could make the thing "stand up and sing." When I got a new computer, I found that my earlier skill set was TOTALLY outmoded and I had to ask for help learning how to use the new technology. Once I had some help, I understood the TOTALLY NEW CONCEPT of using computers and I make out fairly well today.

This is what it is like when you go from a point and shoot camera to an SLR, if you have no prior experience with a film SLR.

Find a friend who can help you, take a class, or get an "aftermarket" guide to learning your camera. There is a lot more going on than simply setting the camera to a mode and pushing the button. Once you have an idea what is being set by choosing a mode, you will be able to apply it better.

For instance (as Mason said), putting the camera in sports mode DEFEATS focus lock and puts you in "continuous focus" mode. You just have to try to track your moving subject to keep him in the focus zone. Sports mode will also try to select the highest shutter speed available, but if you are indoors, that speed won't be very high with the kit lens. Sports mode also defeats the flash. It's meant for sports, which are usually outdoors.

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Congraulations! Your question has brought out the absloute best of this section. If only this entire panel would open a school for photography or form a user group or something... Did anyone else notice this???

Answer 3

Learning a new camera, especially a dSLR is a big learning curve. Don't give up, when you learn the technique and get some photography knowledge under your belt you will be amazed by what you can do with your D40.

You seem to have very little understanding about the technical rudiments of how your camera works and what the settings are and what they do. P is not a manual mode, and does not give you control over your pictures. I would suggest getting a book or two on beginning photography. Get some basic information understood, then make your camera manual your best friend.

There have been some great answers for you, on this question and others. We all want you to succeed with your new camera. The beginning for you will be knowledge, though. YA can't teach you how to operate your camera through questions and answers based on a lack of understanding in general, especially in the technical aspects of making images. So get a couple of books, read and learn, then we can help you more.

Good luck!

Answer 4

I looked at your images. You have an nice eye, but I wouldn't call myself a photographer yet. With a decent sense of composition, which you seem to have, you may reach that point sooner than others, but it is a way down the road for you.

I also read some of your other questions and your camera isn't the problem, your previous camera and your experience with it is. It's also why you're not a photographer. The other camera basically made all the decisions for you, except the subject. If, as you say, you take your photography seriously, then you will have to tackle learning the subject and it's terminology. At this moment, you have no artistic control.

It won't be a matter of getting on Y!A and getting and answer either. You will spend a lot of time and take a lot of pictures learning to make that camera a tool of your personal expression.

Now, about your 'Sports' setting. Your camera is making a fairly complex decision FOR YOU BASED ON THE ASSUMPTIONS OF THE CAMERA DESIGNERS. Where their assumptions don't match the situation, well, you won't get what you expect.

I am going to warn you to calm down at this point, before I tell you that your ignorance is a problem, because people seem to assume that you are telling them that they are stupid. Nothing could be further from the truth. Ignorance is the state of a lack of knowledge, nothing more.

In this instance, as you will find in the future with this camera (or one like it), you ignorance is causing a problem for you. Nikon's designers have assumed that the action you are trying to capture is further away than it would be under the circumstances described by you. The further away a moving subject is, the lower the shutter speed needed to 'freeze' the action. The camera, even though it has distance information to work with, doesn't know where within that space what you are trying to capture is. It's setting to too low a shutter speed. The reason that the others are suggesting using 1/125 or 1/250 of a second is because it works most of the time. However, motion laterally across the sensor plane may require as fast as 1/500 sec to stop the motion.

Set your camera to ISO 400, TV to 1/125, 1/250 or 1/500 sec and give it a shot. The camera will select the aperture for you. As far as focusing goes under these circumstances, Nikon should have something similar to my Canon's AI Servo. From an initial subject selection, it tracks the movement and focusses at the moment of exposure.

At this point, if successful, you will have a well exposed picture of your son frozen in place and suitable for a mother's memories. Every mother should have plenty of those and plenty of them being cute at various ages.

Guard these carefully. In later years you will be able to pull out your album and embarrass your son to no end by showing it to his friends. The mere hint that you will show these pictures to a girl he is interested in and tell the story behind it, will turn him meek and compliant.

As people have already told you, there is only one way to get what you say you want and that is to learn the basics of photography and your camera. You have a good eye (apparently), but that's it. You may be able to get a specific answer to a question like this one, but without being able to understand the why's and whereof's of the answers your future will be a continuing series of questions. You won't be able to see how to apply things to new situations.

DSLR's are the world's worst point and shoot cameras, by the way. The camera you had (maybe still do have) will shoot rings around your D40. The settings like 'Sports', 'Portait', 'Landscape', etc., are for taking snapshots and handing your camera to a friend to take your picture without screwing it up totally. The design philosophy behind the two types of cameras is different.

Here's a way of choosing what you may want to do. If 90% of the time a point and shoot will deliver the type of photograph in terms of exposure and look that you would produce if you knew how, sell your D40 and get one of the compact zooms that are very close to SLR's and have full manual control. There are some very good ones. Their software is designed to make your life easier and you can leisurely progress in learning photography and artistic control while still producing good images.

There you go. One parenting tip and another free opinion. A two fer! How good can it get?

Personally, I hope you pick the more demanding path of applying yourself to really learning photography. The world can always use another good photographer and it could be you.

Vance

Answer 5

This is a prime example of why you should stay away from Scene Modes.

1) Put your camera on Shutter Priority

2) Set the Shutter Speed at 1/250

3) Go to the menu and select AUTO ISO

4) If you are still getting blur, crank the Shutter Speed up to 1/500

5) If you want controlled motion blur, take the speed down to 1/125 or slower and pan the camera along with the subject -- you'll have to be smooth and steady to do this

6) Remember that at low light levels, you may get sensor noise

Hope this helps.

Answer 6

As others have stated, read your owners manual cover to cover, like it was your favorite novel. You have already recieved a lot of great answers, so no need to regurgitate any of it. I'll just add my opinion. Get your exposure mode out of auto and switch to aperture priority. Don't use shutter priority unless you know what the fastest shutter speed that will support your lens' fastest aperture. If you choose a speed faster than your lens will support, the camera will warn you, but still allow you to take improperly exposed images. Move the mode dial to "A". Choose f/5.6 and turn off auto ISO and set it yourself, to 400. On a sunny day, you'll have a shutter speed plenty fast enough to freeze movement. Change your focusing mode to continuous, this will allow the camera to continually focus on whatever focus point you have active which is good for sports. Don't worry, frustration is all part of the learning experience, once you understand what you did wrong, you can often turn things around and produce better shots.

Answer 7

Ok I have to chime in here.

Do you have your LENS set to auto focus. Those buttons can get switched without even noticing. Speaking of lenses which one are you using? And what kind of light are we talking about? Knowing these things would really help. If you dont know the specifics and its just the lens that came with the camera just say kit lens.

If your set to manual focus you would probably know it. The camera wouldnt do much when you pressed the shutter halfway.

When in sports mode, try shooting a burst [just hold down the shutter release], out of a burst of 5, one should be ok.

You say you traded your Sony camera in. To who? Was it a reputable dealer? Is your camera used? I think theres some way of finding out how many shutter releases the camera has made (kind of like an odometer on a car). You should find out how many shots its taken, even if you are assuming it was new when you bought it.

Answer 8

1. You should learn the technical aspects of photography and your camera (composition, shutter speed, rules of thirds, depth of field etc), once you understand these you will be able to create better images.

2. Shoot in "M" (manual mode) because you will have more control over your camera and not the other way around. When you are in one of the "Auto" modes the camera will just read the highlights and shadow areas and try to get you a picture. The camera is not smart enough to know what you are shooting.

3. You can start reading all kinds of books on this subject and get information from the internet. This includes web based classes, manufactures web sites to personal blogs.

4. Take out your camera and manual sit down and go over all the buttons and knobs etc.. this is the best way for you to learn what your camera can do.

5. Start shooting with your camera to get practice and from what you are learning from reading and doing you will get better. Practice does make perfect. Take notes while shooting and then look at your photos on the computer find the best one from that set and see what you did to get the shot and see what you did to get the shot and why you like it more than the others.

6. You can get yourself a job as a photographers assistant (be it payed or free) and learn from that person.

Since you have access to the internet here is a start: Some you have to pay for and some are free.. start with the free stuff of course.

http://www.photonhead.com/beginners/......
http://www.betterphoto.com/home.asp......
http://www.shootsmarter.com/
http://www.webphotoschool.com/

http://www.lexar.com/dp/index.html?cmp=e...

Studio Lighting info
http://www.studiolighting.net/portrait-lighting-styles/

Photoshop classes
http://www.russellbrown.com/
http://inpics.net/pselements.html


Hope this helps,
Kevin

Answer 9

I don't know if you are aware but you have been gifted with answers from the best of the best in this section. You have been given some excellent advise. Try it out.

Dr. Sam also has a very huge point. There is a vast difference in point and shoot and your Nikon. Don't regret, just take the time to use it and become a better photographer. Your point and shoot allowed you to develop an eye and look for composition. Now your Nikon will allow you to learn your craft. You will need to learn lighting and aperture speed and all sorts of fun stuff that will make your head hurt at first but as you learn your instrument you will fall in love with it. I shoot with a Canon D60 and 10D. Rather old cameras as the game goes, 5 and three years out. Would love a 5D but spend my money on lens instead.

Mainly you need to understand that now that you have put your big girl bra on and jumped in the to grown up pool it's time to take the water wings of point and shoot off and learn to swim. Learn to work that wonderful piece of equipment.

Most of these wonderful people here are friends and great photographers in their own rights. They've taken the time to learn the tools of their trade whether professionally or to fulfill a passion. They have all heard me say this many times, it is the cook that creates a fabulous dish, not the pots and pan that cook uses. And as you take the time to learn the ins and outs of your camera you'll start falling in love it and realize it is through you and your skill with a tool and NOT the tool that is making the images. The equipment is important and the better it is the better you can be but it all has to start with you and your willingness to learn and use. You can do it.

Good luck and stick with it. Come back with more solid questions and you will be blessed with this group. They are a wealth of wisdom and knowledge

Answer 10

I think you use the term "photographer" when you are not one. Just because you buy a DSLR/SLr doesn't make you a photographer. Quality produced images is what makes a photographer.

I recommend that you take the good recommendations found here by the pros such as myself here on Yahoo! Answers and apply them. What might also help is knowing your equipment. Without knowing your equipment, you'll never be able to get it to take pictures of any quality. A "photographer" will use the A,S,M modes most of the time. Get away from using the AUTO, P and "green" modes. You lose way too much control.

One last thing - take a photography class or better educate yourself in the basics of photography.