Ok, so I'm tired of this piece of .... Right now, it's at the garage and even THEY can't figure it out. MAYBE, just MAYBE someone out there can help me. 2001 Blazer LS, 2-dr, 5-spd. So, the main problem is that it's bucking and jerking...on acceleration and deceleration. Dies intermittantly. Check engine light is on. Temperature gauge see-saws. We've replaced and replaced and run scans, to no avail. Codes are P1336 (CKP relearn needed) and MISFIRE.
What's been done:
new distributor
new plugs and wires
new crankshaft sensor
new radiator
new ECM (engine computer)
PASSLOCK has been relearned
CKP has been relearned
fuel pressure is correct
Will run for about 10 good minutes, then starts bucking and jerking again. Then eventually dies, check engine light on for a while, off for a while and fuel gauge takes FOREVER to show correct fuel quantity. You should also know that one time while the jerking was going on, hubby turned off & on going down road and it quit jerk
2007-10-27 13:41:15 · 10 answers · asked by wrckdbike 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
It sounds like a wiring problem because of the many different things happening at the same time. These are some of the hardest problems to repair and you'll need a top notch mechanic to resolve it. Sounds like you have a parts replacer working on it now. I'd take it to a different shop and let someone else have a crack at it>
2007-10-27 15:05:48 · answer #1 · answered by Ron B 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Ok, the best thing going for you right now is that the check engine light is on. That mean that whatever is wrong is tripping a trouble code. This code may not tell them the part that is wrong, but it will give them a clue, it could be a symptom. It takes an experienced technician to truly run down a problem. With your vehicle being a 2001, it is possible that there is nothing physically "wrong" with your vehicle and it is all computer faults. I've seen some problems that were as bad as your or worse, where the tech said it was a bad computer and replaced it, but the car still had the problem, and it turned out that the problem was a broken or bad ground wire. The slightest change in resistance on the right circuit can cause horrible drivablility problems.
To me, it seems that these guys are guessing at what might be wrong. You need to find a shop that can and WILL fully diagnose the problem. Look for a reputable shop, preferable a shop that displays an ASE Certification sign, and tell them what the problem is, after they diagnose the problem and tell you what is wrong, then authorize the repairs, and if it still does not fix it, take it back and tell them their diagnosis was wrong. A reputable shop will make good on their work and find what the problem is the first time, but if they get it wrong, they will fix it right and should be free of charge if you have to take it back.
2007-10-27 14:11:26 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
I'm not sure if this is the same or not but something to look into. Once I found the same symthoms in a S-10 and I couldn't find a problem when I road tested it. I weigh 140lbs, and when someone weighing over 180 drove it, the problem happened. It turned out to be a connector grommet was worn through and the main (sensor) power wire grounded itself to the frame,under the driver's seat, shutting down almost all engine controls. These "grounded out" wires could happen anywhere in the frame.
2007-10-27 14:04:16 · answer #3 · answered by Lab 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I'm not an expert, but if the catalytic converter (exhaust pipe) gets clogged, the car won't accelerate properly and eventually cuts off. It gets progressively worse as the catalytic converter gets more clogged. The catalytic conveter is designed to get clogged. It pulls led (or some other harmful chemical) out of the exhaust, and eventually the led fills the c.c. When the c.c. gets clogged, exhaust can no longer flow through the exhaust pipe -- hence all the problems. Your mechanic should know all of that though.
2007-10-27 13:56:23 · answer #4 · answered by ? 6 · 0⤊ 3⤋
Have the timing belt inspected. If a tooth is worn, or the belt has stretched, crazy things start to happen to the engine.
2007-10-27 13:47:43 · answer #5 · answered by Cecil n 7 · 1⤊ 3⤋
possible egr valve sticking if ok do exhaust back pressure test
2007-10-28 05:45:33 · answer #6 · answered by big d 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
So, u've spent all this money, and nothing is fixed...take it to the dealer, get it looked at by someone who knows it
2007-10-27 15:22:00 · answer #7 · answered by Rick M 2 · 0⤊ 2⤋
I think, and this is just my opinion, you should get a new vehicle. Just a thought.
2007-10-27 13:48:18 · answer #8 · answered by ♥Sara♥ 3 · 0⤊ 3⤋
change temp sensor because its out of range its flooding system
2007-10-27 13:49:15 · answer #9 · answered by goodmother 2 · 0⤊ 3⤋
its a chevy, thats the problem
2007-10-27 13:50:39 · answer #10 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 3⤋