does anyone know what's involved in preparing a travel trailer for winter storage?

Question

We bought a 5th wheel trailer, and are storing it in an unheated enclosed storage space. We need to know what steps to take to winterize it.

Answer 1

Winterizing your RV is a relatively easy process that most RV'ers can do themselves! It only takes a few minutes if you have all the proper items such as: a water heater by-pass kit installed on your water heater, a water-pump winterizing kit and it's a good idea to have a city water inlet blow-out plug! (You can buy these things at your local RV dealer's parts department.)

Step 1.

Empty and flush out your holding tanks (if you haven't already done this upon completion of your last trip) at your nearest dump station!

Step 2.

Drain your fresh water tank and your water heater (leave the drain plug out of your water heater until spring). Your water heater will drain a little faster if you open a couple of hot water taps in your unit! You shouldn't open the safety valve on your water heater to help drain it because it might not seat properly again and can be an unnecessary expense when you need to replace it in the spring!!!

Step 3.

By-pass your water heater (you don't need to run any antifreeze into this) either by purchasing (if not already installed) a water heater by-pass kit usually about $20.00 to $30.00 or by removing the two water lines on the back (inside your unit) of the water heater and joining them together with a temporary by-pass (usually about $10.00 - $15.00)

Step 4.

It's recommended that you "blow" your water lines out with air pressure (don't exceed more than 40-50 p.s.i) you would do this with a blow-out plug (usually about $3.00 to $5.00). If you don't have an air compressor then you can use your neighborhood service stations air compressor used for filling tires. It's nice to have someone help you here, one of you can hold the air hose on the blow-out plug which you have screwed onto your city water entry (the same place your water hose connects when you have hook-ups at a camp site) and the other to open your faucets, hot and cold one at a time until there's nothing coming out! (Don't forget your toilet!!)

STEP 5

You are now ready to put some RV (non toxic) antifreeze through your RV plumbing system!! Some books or people will tell you to put 6 or 7 gallons of antifreeze into your fresh water tank, I strongly recommend that you do not do this as it is a complete waste of money! 7 gallons of antifreeze would cost you about $30.00 to $40.00, you should only need 2 gallons (maybe 3 for some of the larger units) and most of the time you will have approximately 1/2 of one left over! It is best to disconnect the water line from your fresh water tank at the pump side and use a separate suction line which some rv parts departments have already made up for about $4.00-$6.00, or a pump winterizing kit consisting of a brass three way valve and suction line which stays attached to your pump permanently, about $18.00-$25.00. Stick the suction hose into the jug of antifreeze making sure it goes all the way to the bottom of the jug, with all your taps turned completely off and your water heater by-passed, turn on your water pump and open a water tap (hot or cold) (the farthest one from the pump) And wait until you see the antifreeze come out at a steady flow, turn off that tap then do the next tap and so on until you have done them all, don't forget to flush your toilet until it comes out steady there as well! If your unit has an outside shower don't forget it as well! (Sometime during the process you probably had to switch jugs when the first one ran empty) next poor some antifreeze (you should have some left) down each sink drain and your tub or shower drain (about 1/2 a cup), to ensure your p-traps don't freeze up! Turn your pump switch off and clean up any antifreeze over spray left in your sinks and tub or shower, open all your taps and toilet valve by sticking something in the hole (make sure it doesn't fall into your tank) I find a toilet cleaning brush is the best thing to use! That's it you're done! That wasn't so bad was it? Now remove your batteries for winter storage!

Answer 2

empty the holding tanks put anti freeze down all the drains. blow out the water lines and leave all faucets open and put in rv anti freeze (special pink non toxic anti freeze). make sure you turn the propane tanks off and light the stove to empty the propane lines out. if you trailer has a deep cycle battery for use for power when you are not hooked to a electrical source disconnect it and remove it and take it put it in your basement near the furnace so it will stay warm, if your basement has a concrete floor make sure you put it on a board not on the bare concrete as it will discharge if in contact with the concrete. try to plug up any holes that mice could get in through with plain steel wool ( do not use brillo or sos pads as they are soap and mice love soap). inside put any bedding or pillows etc in plastic bags and seal them tightly to protect from mice. cover all furniture with old sheets to keep clean. put some moth balls out in little containers around to help keep mice away. make sure that you prop refrigerator door open just a little so that mold does not grow in it. and since it is going to be stored inside it might not hurt to leave a few windows open just a crack.

Answer 3

Dump the sanitation tank
Drain and remove all water from lines and tanks
Cover the tires with sun resistant materials
Remove any food, perishables,dirty clothes,sheets
Leave the windows slightly cracked for ventilation.
Lock the 5th wheel
Shut off propane tanks,pilot lights,open the burner knobs to burn off excess propane.
Open water faucets.
Clean the bathroom and toilet.

Answer 4

Empty the holding tanks. Blow out all the water lines. Add RV antifreeze to all sink traps and the toilet. Cover the AC unit so mice don't use it for entry. Make sure any propane tanks are turned off. Pretty much it.

Answer 5

Aw crap, I'm too late. I wanted to say what those other guys said.