before and after photos of using a high resolution filter for a digital slr camera?

Question

http://www.shopsunshine.com/images/filterkit_dsn.jpg
such as those^^^ i mean what would the difference be

Answer 1

Antoni's right. Filters can mess things up if they are low quality glass, so maybe that's what the seller means by "high resolution." Interestingly, I did an internet search for "High resolution filter" and the first one I came up with shows the usual UV, Polarizer, and an odd-ball Fluorescent filter. The thing is, they don't mention the filter size - essential for ordering - and these three in the kit cost $299.99! Man, that's got to be some exotic glass. They don't even tell you what brand they are. The place I saw selling them, though, rates a ZERO out of ten at www.resellerratings.com. No surprise.

One eBay seller has the same 3-piece set for $18.99.

The store you link to has about an 8 out of 10 rating: http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Shopsunshine_Sunshine_Electronics_DSN_Digital_Shopping_Network

When I go to their site, and search for "high resolution filter," I only see a brand that I never heard of called Crystal Optics polarizing filters and they cost $34.99, regardless of the size. When I search for brands like Hoya, Tiffen, B+W or Cokin, there are no hits at all. You might prefer to buy your camera supplies at a photo store.

If you want to see with and without a UV filter, check out: http://www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstein/441244796/

Here's my stock answer about filters:

Many people use a skylight or UV filter to protect the front glass of the lens, but you can also buy high quality plano glass filters for that purpose. Whatever you do, at least buy a decent quality filter instead of trying to get off cheap.

Personally, I'd say the first place to start for effects is a polarizing filter. You want a "circular" polarizer.

You might also find a neutral density filter (varying degrees of darkness are available) useful for taking shots of bright subjects at wider apertures or slower speeds.

As far as all the rest, you can do this in Photoshop or Photoshop Elements. Okay, I don't want to argue with anyone about how it's better to use the real filter, but our asker can try a few in Photoshop (etc) "for free" and see which ones will be the most useful before you start spending money on the real thing.

Or, go here http://www.thkphoto.com/products/hoya/index.html and see what you can learn.

Or here http://www.tiffen.com/tiffen_filters.html Tiffen makes a kit to get you started on filters, if you think you want more than one. They include a polarizer, a UV filter and a warming filter. B&H Photo and many other places sell this kit.

Many people use a UV filter simply to protect the front element of their lens from damage. "UV filters absorb ultraviolet rays which often make outdoor photos hazy or indistinct." (from: http://www.thkphoto.com/products/hoya/gf-01.html )

We get this question often enough that I decided to upload a sample to Flickr showing the same subject taken with and without a UV filter. Download the image, cut a small section out of the top half and drag it to the same section in the bottom half and see what you think. The photos were taken about 15 seconds apart in subdued sunlight, so I think the lighting was virtually identical for each. There was no post-processing at all so you can make a fair comparison. I will not comment any further and let you decide for yourself if there is any color shift.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7189769@N04/441244796/

The picture was taken with a Nikon D200 at ISO 100 with the Nikon 18-200 VR lens @ 112 mm at f/5.3.

Buy a name brand like Hoya or Tiffen. Don't get cheap junk to put on the front of your fine lens.

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For what it's worth, I had a skylight filter on my 17-55 lens and I dropped my camera and broke the filter! I decided to replace it with an optically clear piece of glass, sold by Nikon solely as a lens protector. I think the skylight and UV filters are NOT as neutral as everyone says they are and I would like to start out with images as Nikon intended for me to see them.

Answer 2

I don't know where you found the specs "high res". Those images are from this ad:

http://www.shopsunshine.com/item.php?item_id=62

They are basically UV filter, ND filter, and FD filter.

UV filter can be consider almost plain glass just to protect the front of your lens. It would almost make no BEFORE / AFTER difference.

The ND filter are sunglasses. It makes things little bit darker without effecting the color at all. So again if used properly it would make NO difference. Some time (just like your eyes) the brightness is way out of range of the your camera's range. Or you may want to just use wider F stop (to make the background softer). But that is assuming it is a bright day.

The last filter is FD filter. That makes the ugly greenish fluorescent light look more natural. Believe it or not your DSLR already automatically detects fluorescent light and compensate for it. It is completely useless on digital camera.

So get the UV filter to protect the lens not for the effect.
Get the ND filter if you shoot in very bright lights
Forget the FD filter.

Good Luck.

P.S. No such thing as "high res" or "digital" filter. They are either high quality or not. Period.

Answer 3

Wow. How long did it take you to write that Dr. Sam? You must have done a lot of research.

Let me just say, even if you have a two thousand dollar lens, don't put a UV filter on it.

Anyway, as said above, most filters are crap. When businesses try to sell you UV filters, they are doing that because they make more of a profit off of them. When attached to a lens, these UV filters downgrade the image quality. I too used one because I thought it would protect the main element. It did, but at a terrible price of image quality. The ghosting in some of my images were so bad, it was absolutely laughable.
The only filter I would recommend is a good circular polarizing filter. These are very expensive, but well worth the price. Also, a good split ND filter for taking images of high contrast situations.
A website you might consider is: http://www.wolfes.com/eshop/cart.php?target=category&category_id=269 I've done business with them for a long time, and they're great. Aother is http://www.bhphotovideo.com

Answer 4

Pay attention to Antoni and Dr. Sam.

I feel certain that Dr. Sam simply wrote from experience.

There are a lot of companies taking advantage of novice photographers with shoddy products labeled as being "designed for digital cameras".

Yes, I've seen ads for Hoya and Tiffen touting their filters designed for digital cameras. My natural skepticism leads me to think these are marketing ploys but at least you can be assured of good quality filters from them.

Buy only name-brand filters such as Tiffen, B+W, Hoya. I'm sure there are more but I've owned these brands for 36 years. I also have several Minolta branded filters but that's due to my collecting Minolta memorabilia.

I completely disagree with "electros...".

I've used Hoya, B+W, and Tiffen Haze and Skylight filters for years with no image degradation. The Haze filter eliminates the haze seen in landscapes with mountains or hills in the background; the Skylight filter eliminates the "bluish" tint seen in photos taken in open shade and in shaded areas of scenics. There is some debate about whether a Haze filter does it better than a Skylight. The only lens I own that faces the world without a Skylight or Haze filter is my 16mm fisheye.

Answer 5

Wow! The two most common questions asked in this part of Yahoo! Answers in one entry. Repairs cost more than buying new camera. Well, that is if you're going to buy another point-and-shooter. If you know the basics of photography or are willing to learn it, you won't be satisfied unless you get a dSLR. If not, you'll just be paying more to get crappy pictures like before.

Answer 6

filters dont have resolution

goto flickr and search for filters, they look like uv, skylight and
polarizer

all 3 do different things, but wont effect resolution

a

Answer 7

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