Car Dealers/Buying Experts Please Help!!!?

Question

I’ve heard that car dealerships have a two-thousand dollar negotiating window. If I buy a car for twenty-seven thousand I could possibly get it for twenty-five? How is this possible, and is this even true. Of course I’ve heard of negotiating with the dealer, but I never knew I could negotiate this low. Can I add in tax/title/miscellaneous in the price? Also, if I get a twenty-seven thousand dollar loan, and take this to the dealer after negotiating to twenty-five thousand, can I send the remaining two-thousand back to the loan company?

Thanks

Answer 1

I offer $100 over cost...not a penny more, try it

Answer 2

Second question first: yes, if you borrow too much money, you can ask the loan company to 'apply it to the principal' - that is, make the entire size of the loan smaller so you pay less interest.

As to the first question, you're making a lot of assumptions. The make and model of the car play some in the markup from invoice to window sticker. There is a window of huge proportion for markup when you look at the dealer cost for a Corvette, a Lamborghini, a Mercedes 500 SEL, or a Viper.

On the other hand, there is a window of a few hundred dollars (or less) when you start talking Ford Focus, Chevy Cobalt, or Kia Spectra.

So, the answer is, depands on what you're considering buying. A 27,000 car is going to fall into the midsize range, and may have as much as 2,000 from the invoice to the window sticker, but you have to take some things into account: the dealership has to keep the lights on. They have to pay the help. They have to pay for advertising. They have to pay for gasoline (lots of gasoline). They have to pay the commission on the sale to the salesman. And they have to make a profit to stay in business.

I am absolutely positive about one thing: the dealership will not let you take the car and take a loss on the sale. So, offer whatever you want to offer. Bottom line is, you got a good deal if you leave with the car and feel like you got a good deal.

Answer 3

A) Let the dealer do the financing. They can get you the best interest. don't buy frills like sealer packages, and that sort. Get LoJac if you are buying an expensive car. Don't buy a Warrenty on a new car.

B) You should negotiate a price, however it depends on the vehicle you are buying how much profit the dealer makes. Usually you can ask to see the invoice on a vehicle, and most dealers will show you. If not, don't buy at that dealership. If you are really a sharp troop, and can stand the beating, you can go a bit below invoice. Invoice is what the Dealer paid for the car, but doesn't include a bonus if the dealer makes his quota of new cars from the factory.

Roy

Answer 4

Stuart nailed it right on the head.
Depending on the availability of the vehicle in question. The negotiating window is between invoice and MSRP. If the car is in stock, you probably can get it at near invoice, if it's an older unit and the dealership is on a floorplan, you might get it below invoice, if you are on a waiting list for hot vehicle, be prepared to pay MSRP and feel lucky to do so. Afterall, the dealer sets the final price.

Answer 5

There is no set negotatiaing window. The markup varies by make, model, etc. The markup on a Cadillac is considerably more than on a Chevrolet. When buying a new car--think "DEALER COST" The markup from dealer cost as shown as the sticker price can be between 14% and 22%. Look at the sticker price, reduce it by a percentage between 14 and 22% and see if dealer accepts.

Answer 6

The rip-off is less complicated than that. this is a conventional of Ebay scammers and that's based upon a wierd quirk of British banking rules. A financial company cheque is going by way of 2 tiers of authentification as quickly as this is credited to an account: "Sight of" authentification ability that this is seen to be a actual financial company cheque, draft or postal order. If it passes this degree banks can, and do, credit the money to the receiving account. Then there is seller Authentification, meaning the financial company cheque is despatched to the issuing financial company for approval. those scumbags are professionals at fantastically forging financial company cheques and postal orders which will bypass Sight Of authentification, yet for sure it fails seller Authentification. by way of then - normally six weeks after the forged cheque became credited - you have withdrawn the money and despatched the money onto the scamming scum who despatched it to you interior the 1st place. the genuine killer right this is which you're then going to be to blame for the unauthorised and extremely costly overdraft on your account. verify the positive print on the workplace work you signed once you opened the account. the way around this rip-off is basic, too : tell the scammers which you will take their postal order/draft/cheque, yet won't dispatch the products until eventually it has handed seller authentification. you will never hear from them back.