how do i add a new thread in beadwork?

Question

i usually do not need to add a new thread but i saw some doing that and i wanna know. i don't find any tutorial on that.

Answer 1

It does depend on what kind of beads, what kind of bead work and what kind of string you use.

If you use string which is easy to knot you can just tie the knot. If your string is hard to knot, as most clear string, you need to make a very strong and therefor big knot.
A normal knot might be hidden in a bead, or at the back of the beads if there is a front and back to the work.
But if you have to tie a big knot the only way to hide it is at the back of the work, and most bead work does not have a back that will not be shown.
In that case you might tie a smaller knot, add a few beads, and tie a second smaller knot, hoping the knots will not show.

For knots you can use:
This is one you can use in all string:
http://www.animatedknots.com/doublefishermansscouting/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
This one in the double version will do in normal string:
http://www.animatedknots.com/sheetbendscouting/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

And the knots on this page will work in the most difficult string:
http://www.animatedknots.com/indexfishing.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
You see that there are loops, connection knots and knots to add findings (in the examples they are hooks, happens on a fishing knots page.)

I hope this is enough info for you.

Answer 2

What sort of bead work, big beads or wee counted work?

With wee counted work dangle earrings, some avoid at least one knot by noting how much thread is needed for the item and cutting that length to begin -- and beginning in the middle of that. The endings should be worked into the dangly bits, not the upper area.

Some routinely begin a second thread with the dangly bit area, again doing all of the ending in the dangly bits. The basic is "Cut the thread long-enough that it's not necessary to add new in the upper area."

There are different methods for bead work which must be flexible, bead work which may be lined, and bead work that's visible-both-sides but not flexible. If lined, you can knot in the middle of a row on the back more tidily than at the edge of a row. Any knot may be stabilized with wax or glue. Wax is traditional. Some glues haven't been around long enough to be considered to be time-tested. Wax or glue can also stabilize *without* knots.

Ending and adding new spun thread (not mono-filament), use a sharp needle and run through the previous row on loom-work or similar and pierce the old thread at least once, perhaps mid-row, pierce the new thread with the old thread, then run the old thread through the next row, then follow the old with the new, pierce the old thread at least once more, perhaps mid-row, and continue with the new thread only. the edge with both may be boosted with a bit of wax or with glue. Glue will *not* hold on waxed thread. You can wax the entire length of both edges without harm as a final operation. Trim the ends after all else is done. Ends will always be inches away from the cross-piercing areas.

I've seen super-glue used on close-cut knots work its way loose within a year after an item's completion. It was beautiful and convenient and then poof! over half a parking lot.