What signs should I look for when selecting a dog from the animal shelter to be a good match for my dog?

Question

Should they start playing, should they be neutral, should they be curious? I have a 5 month old lab, so I know I should probably get a dog that is a similar size or will be a similar size at maturity. So, what guidelines should I go by for choosing the best dog?

Answer 1

Good for you for getting a shelter dog!
I would definately not get a smaller dog. The labs at the dog park I take mine too tend to all be aggressive toward the smaller dogs and puppies.
Yours is only 5 months old, so they'll probably be very playful, don't mistake it for fighting!

Answer 2

Well for sure, take your dog to meet prospective candidates after you have narrowed the field if the shelter will alllow it. Talk to the shelter staff about how well a candidate has interacted with other dogs in the shelter, since they are often turned out together to play.

Dogs may sniff each and check each other out - then play. Sometimes they will just be neutral at first which can be OK too. If possible have someone from the shelter with behavioral exprience supervise the session and give you their two cents.

Any growling, raised hackles or stiff legged, stiff tailed stances with hard stares is a bad sign.

Size doesn't matter so much - big and little dogs can get along really well. What does seem to work best is spayed/neutered dogs of the opposite sex. So whatever your dog is, focus on the opposite sex of your dog. A somewhat more mature dog (especially one with some obedience training) will teach your younger dog the ropes and may be a positive influence. If I were you, I'd look for a dog of the opposite sex aged 8 months to 2 years old with good behavior.

I generally agree with Jade above, except on one point. Dogs sometimes act aggressively in kennels when other dogs walk by and it is not necessarily a sign of an aggressive personality - it is called barrier frustration and it can occur when they have been kenneled for relatively long period of time and it is fairly common in shelters (and something we try to reduce). Ask the kennel staff about the dog and its interactions with dogs outside of the kennel. Once the dog is in a home situation, barrier frustration will often subside and not lead to dog aggression problems. Don't discard a dog on this first perception since it may be a false one - a lot of good dogs get passed by because of this.

Answer 3

Remember dogs in a shelter are usually there for a reason. Sometimes it is stupid owners, but often it is because of behavior problems or other issues that made them difficult to live with. A savvy dog person can turn this around in no time for most typical problems. Sometimes rescue organizations offer a better option because these dogs have been pre-screened and often lived with people who can give you more information about the dogs personality. Make sure to have a meet a greet for your dog and make sure they get along.

*Look for a dog that appears comfortable, outgoing and friendly -- even amid the din of the kennel. Try to stay away from extremes on either end of the spectrum.

* Try to find an animal that is interested in all of the people passing by the cage - not just you.

* Be cautious about taking an animal that appears fearful or shy, even if the animal is more outgoing when taken to a private adoption area.

* Any sign of aggression should rule out a dog, instantly.

* There is a common misconception that by taking a "less adoptable" dog, someone else will surely take the "more adoptable" dogs. Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way. There are only so many potential homes to go around. If you take a dog that looks forlorn or fearful, there is a good chance that a normal, healthy, friendly dog will be destroyed.

* Avoid taking an animal based purely on information provided by the original owner and observations by shelter staff. The original owner was unlikely to be truthful about any behaviors that might prevent the dog from being adopted. The shelter worker is unlikely to know more than whether the dog does well in a kennel setting.

* While the glowing reports of the original owner may not be trusted, disparaging remarks are also suspect. Most pet owners are poorly equipped to shape and maintain their dog's behavior. They are often forced to give up the animal due to simple ignorance. When in doubt, take the time to call a trainer or behaviorist to find out what it would take to fix the dog's problem.

* Be willing to walk out the door if you do not find exactly the animal you are looking for. The more time you spend searching for the right dog, the better chance you have of finding him.

Answer 4

When you first introduce them, they'll go up to each other and start sniffing. Then, usually everything's okay as long as one doesn't snap at the other. Next, one dog might try to start playing. You'll know it's a game to the dogs because they'll do a "play bow" where they get down on their elbows and look at the other dog. Sometimes they bark while they're doing this, but it's just cause they want to play. If they play bite and bark but are play bowing, that's a good thing. I would try to choose a dog that plays with your puppy, since he's probably really playful. But if they don't, and they just keep sniffing or don't do much, that's okay, too. You just don't want them fighting.

If you don't find a dog you like at the shelter, you can also try dog rescues, too. Look on petfinder.com, and there are lots of dogs from rescues and shelters. Good luck!

Answer 5

puppies are usually thrilled to see each other! so you shouldn't have a problem

i'd select a puppy which is outgoing and not too shy... one that is happy to see you...

i'd also ask the people whether he is food-aggressive.. or even test him myself...


young dogs are very trainable, and you can find a lot of good, FREE professional dog training websites by doing a yahoo search.

i hope you find a great pup

Answer 6

when my dog died i went to the shelter to pick out another dog a companion for my husky. the next day i took him with me and had the dog i wanted brought outside to see if they got along and to sniff each other out. after the introduction they seemed well attached to each other so i brought the new guy home and they have got along great since. that was 3 yrs ago. take you pup with you and see what the reactions are with the new dog you choose and go from there. good luck with your choice and good for you for saving another dog.

Answer 7

don't get any thing that will be too much smaller than your lab. you want them to be able to get alone when they first meet and one not over powering the other. like for example i have a mastiff and a German Shepard and neither of them bully one another and they both look out for one another. it is kinda like they are brothers but in different breeds of dog?

Answer 8

The way Cesar showed to introduce a new dog is basically introduce the dog to your own dog butt first... I know it sounds funny but it did work..... Possibly even the first little while putting a gate between the two of them... and looking for one close in age to your own dog.

Answer 9

i agree with john n and i gave him a thumbs up for it.
take the pup to the shelter with you.