Why does my 1987 Oldsmobile Toronado's engine totally quit after going a short distance?

Question

My 1987 Oldsmobile Torornado has a chronic and potentially dangerous problem. It always starts easily but after going a short distance, rarely more than a mile or so, the engine totally quits (along with the entire electrical system). An experienced mechanic looked at the problem and declared that he did not have the answer. I can't determine whether it is a fuel, an electric, or an electronic problem but I'm not driving the short until I solve the problem. Thanking you in advance for your help.

Answer 1

Have you tried a new battery???? That is the first stop. The alternator might not be charging the battery anymore. Get the alternator tested. Otherwise it might be junk!!!

Answer 2

I'm not sure you have worded this question properly. Are you saying the motor stalls and there is no electrical power anymore? There were tons of problems with the sensors and electronic devices with this type of a motor, I am presuming it is a 3.8L code 3 motor. It helps to say what your car is equipped with as it makes a difference. When I say stalling, it just means the motor quits and you can restart it, maybe it will be a hard start but it will run and maybe stall again. If that's the case, have a good look at the crank sensor for it being loose. They changed the type of sensor for this reason. Also you can try to tap on the sensor carefully when the motor is running as this would simulate an intermittent problem. If any of this acts up, replace the sensor. Try tapping on the MAF sensor by the air cleaner, again if the motor farts or coughs replace it. I think you shoud also be checking the condition of the power and ground connections throughout the under hood connectors. These did have a tendency to loosen or corrode. Have a good look at the positive cable down to the starter as some of these would start to short to ground over time. I did have one of these cars that would cut out and I could hear relays clicking when it did this. That one turned out to have shorted supply relays which burned out the power control module inside the car. This was not the PCM that runs the motor, but a module that supplied the other modules with power to avoid voltage spikes to all the electronics inside the car. Be a little more specific with another question and I'll get back to you. Good luck.

Answer 3

Heres a possible theory on the fuel side.I had an Audi which used to do the same,it turned out to be a blocked gas tank breather system! The easy way to diagnose this is drive untill the symptoms appear then open your gas cap you may hear air hissing into the tank.The pump can only draw fuel to a certain point then the vacuum becomes too great and 'overpowers' the pump.This may not account for any electrical probs, but it's worth a try! Good luck!

Answer 4

You just said the entire electrical system quit. Do you mean that? That would be incredibly easy to troubleshoot, if you're serious. I can't imagine how you'd think it was fuel related. I suspect you didn't say exactly what you meant.

Get yourself a volt-ohm meter and a fuel pressure gauge. You can start troubleshooting with that. You'll find the multi-meter is the most useful tool you can have.

Answer 5

If your entire electrical quits at the same time, check your battery cables for any loose connections, especially the ground wire-to-frame connection.

Answer 6

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