How can I make sure that I will be able to personally develop and print film from the camera I buy?

Question

I need to be able to develop my own film and I don't know what key words I should be looking for to make sure I can do that. For example, are all SLRs capable of this? Or all 35 mm cameras? Help is greatly welcomed!

Answer 1

Developing and printing are independent of your camera, although some flim formats are easier to work with than others.

If you want to do your own darkroom work, you should get either a 35mm camera or a camera that uses 120 roll film. You can get supplies for other formats, but I think 135 (35mm) or 120 film are the easiest to work with.

Answer 2

110 and 126 went away because there wasn't a viable market for it. Pros never used either format - they were purely consumer formats. Once Joe Public moves on to the next best thing they stop making it. 35mm and other professional sizes won't go that way because there's a much larger market. They didn't make a 110 or 126 (which is 35mm, just with different holes on the side) format camera for probably the last 15 years - I can still find a 35mm P&S or order a brand new F6. Same goes for medium format and large format. Now for my smartass moment: No we don't buy film for our cameras anymore, we stick a rock inside for the little bird to chisel out an image on a la Flintstones - since that's how the young'uns seem to regard film.

Answer 3

Relax. You should be able to develop your own films from almost ANY 35 mm camera in today market.

In fact, developing has little to do with the type of camera ones can possible use. Only infrared films will request 'special treatment"

Check before you buy:
- What type the photo am I more like to be working with?
- Am I going to be shooting mostly Black & White?
- Does my camera was builded before 1973? If not, then you should no worry about having problems with the barcode.

- Don't over-spend on films. Buy 3-5. Put them in refrigerator if possible into a Zipper bag.

and last but... if are going to be working with any infared film, make sure your camera is okay. You will need a camera and lents equiped with this feasture.

-Other type of films like positve ( slides) and negative I wouldn't worry about.

Answer 4

With the right equipment you can develop any black and white film currently offered. The camera has nothing to do with it.

As someone said, you don't need a darkroom for processing film. You can use a "changing bag" which should be available at your local camera store or on-line.

For processing film you'll need:

A developing tank with a reel for your film format. Stainless steel is best. A tank that holds 2 reels should be your first option. The tank has 2 lids - one that fits over the tank and a small one for adding chemicals. Never remove the larger one until processing is complete.

Chemicals. This is where you need to do some research as different chemicals can produce different results. Read the information printed inside the box your film comes in for the recommended chemicals and times and temperatures. Kodak D-76 is a standard developer. Choose the developer suggested for your film. You will also need Stop Bath and Fixer.

A darkroom thermometer. You have to maintain your chemicals at a constant temperature for best results. If you use them at the wrong temperature you'll ruin your film.

A timer. There are specific developing times required for different films and chemicals. You will ruin your film if you don't follow them. Search on ebay for a GraLab 300 timer. Yes, you can use a regular timer. You'll understand why the GraLab later.

A bottle opener and a pair of scissors. You have to open the film cannister - ONLY inside the changing bag or in complete, total, absolute darkness. You need the scissors to cut a straight edge on the film leader and to cut the film off at the end of the roll.

A film squeege. Keep it in a sealed plastic bag until needed. A speck of dirt lodged on the rubber that contacts the film will ruin the film by scratching it.

Once your film is safely loaded in the developing tank and its lid is secure you can take it out of the changing bag or turn on the lights.

Set your timer and slowly pour your developer into the tank - AFTER checking to make sure its the right temperature. Put the lid back on the tank, start the timer and agitate the tank a few seconds every couple minutes or so. DON'T shake it; a gentle 180 degree rotation of your hand holding the tank is sufficient. You want to make sure that all the surface of the film is exposed to the developer. Once developing is finished you can pour the developer down the drain. Now pour in the Stop Bath. Next, set the timer as recommended for the Fixer.
When the time has elapsed you can safely remove the large lid from the tank. Now you start the wash cycle. Just place the tank under a faucet and let it fill and then overflow the tank. Its a good idea to empty the tank a few times to avoid sediment form the chemicals settling to the bottom. (If you are using a 2 reel tank but only processing 1 roll, the empty spool should be on the bottom. Then you don't really need to empty the tank during the wash cycle.

Now you can remove the film strip and hang it in a dust-free area. Use the squeege to gently remove any water on the film. Allow to dry. Congratulations! You have now processed your own film.

You will also need to store your negatives. This is best done using the plastic negative holder sheets which should be available at your local camera store or on-line. Make sure they are designed for negative storage. They come in 2 sizes: 4 or 6 negatives. Get the ones that hold 6. Then carefully cut your film into strips of 6. You can use a standard 3 ring binder to store your negatives in these.

For printing your B&W negatives you'll need an enlarger. You may find a new one at your camera store or you can buy used. It should come with a 50mm lens (which is what you use with 35mm film) and a negative carrier. You also need 4 trays to accomodate the largest prints you want to make. Now you need Developer for the paper, a Stop Bath, a Fixer and then a tray to wash your prints in. Follow the paper manufacturers' recommendations for choosing these.

The GraLab timer is used to control the enlarger. This is why its best to buy one instead of a common hardware store timer.

B&W printing is done under a Safelight. This is the fun part. I guarantee you will get goosebumps EVERY time you watch a print "come up" in the developing tray.

Use google and search for this book: 'Object & Image: An Introduction To Photography, Third Edition' by George M. Craven.

Now a few words about what enigma92001 had to say:

Yes, film today has a Barcode. This is for those fully automated 35mm cameras so they can select the film speed and then load the film. Most of them are "Point & Shoot" type cameras and are not likely to be used by anyone who intends to process and print their own B&W.

Infrared film must be handled in total darkness. Use your changing bag to remove it from its cannister, load it in the camera, and remove it from the camera. Of course the light seals on the camera have to be in good condition; light leaks will ruin any film. Infrared film also requires its own chemicals.
You need a dark red filter for infrared.
Your lens has to have an infrared focusing mark. Look for a red "R". After focusing, say at 20', you have to align the 20' mark on the lens with the red "R".

Do not be tempted to "save money" by buying cheap film. Stay with Kodak, Ilford or Fuji. Store brand film is of unknown origin and quality. Sure, you may buy 5 rolls and get good results but that sixth roll may be lousy. Why risk it? I buy all my film on ebay. I have 3 containers of film in my refrigerator right now. My local camera store wants $8 for a 36 exposure roll of film; I've bought it for 1/2 that, including shipping, on ebay.

Answer 5

I have developed film from a P&S 35mm camera before, it doesn't make any difference what camera you use it wont make a difference as to whether you can develop the film yourself or not. Not sure why you thought it would!

35mm film DOES NOT need to be developed in a darkroom, all you need as a dark (pitch black) place to put the film in the tank and the rest can be done in daylight.

Answer 6

Whenever you purchase a film camera, you'll automatically have that option, however, in order to actually develop and print your own film, you'll need your own darkroom, and chemicals. This is true whether you use 35mm, 4x6, large format, etc. It's not so much the camera, as it is having the facilities to do so; or at least having access to them.

Answer 7

35mm film has to be developed in a dark room-if you have all of the equipment for something like that then you will be ok-given it is black and white-color film is developed in very expensive machines-the only affordable way to "develop" your own film is with a digital camera- you can print out pictures on your computer.

Answer 8

I'd like to suggest that you read the labels at the back of the cameral you will be buying. I'm pretty sure there's an instruction there and also an 1-800 number too.

Good luck girl!!

Answer 9

It's in your hands. I know of no photography gestapo. Ask before you buy. Do you have the equipment for pesonal handling? Kind of a strange question.