What's involved for lifting a '06 Jeep Wrangler?

Question

and what is an optimum lift, 2.5", 3" or 4"?

What lift kit is preferred, and is this a DIY job?

Answer 1

There are a lot of options for lifting your Jeep. It really depends on whether you are lifting it for appearance or off road capability (or both). You will likely get a lot of recommendations and a lot of "my choice is the best". The truth is, there are a lot of good lifts out there. I recommend against any "too good to be true" deals on ebay, and I've heard bad things about ProComp if you actually go offroad. I personally don't like TeraFlex because their springs sagged on my old 98 Wrangler after about a year.

I'll tell you what I chose after doing a lot of homework. I put the following on my 06 Rubicon. I drive medium to somewhat difficult trails, and it's my daily driver. My Jeep is set up for a lot more difficult stuff than I'm willing to take it over. The whole kit cost me under $1000 (another $1100 for tires), I installed it all myself with basic tools. A good floor jack, four jack stands, and a good set of TORX sockets (sizes up through T50) were about the only "exotic" tool I needed.

Old Man Emu 2.5" heavy-duty suspension lift
- springs
- shocks
- rear track bar bracket
- rear bump stop extensions
M.O.R.E. 1" Body lift
- body lift spacer "pucks"
- front grill support blocks
- steering shaft relocation bracket
- transfer case linkage relocation bracket
M.O.R.E. 1" Bombproof motor mounts
JKS Anti-swaybar Quicker Disconnects
33" (287/75/R16) Goodyear MT/Rs

Why I chose this setup:
• With any suspension lift greater than about 3", either the highway drive suffers, or the cost to maintain good road manners goes way way up. For example, a 6" long-arm kit will be a wonderful drive, but run $4000 or more and require major work (cutting and welding on the frame) to install.
• Every review I read raves about Old Man Emu. I now agree, the ride quality is excellent.
• With just about any suspension lift, driveline vibrations become a problem that must be addressed. Options are (1) lower the transfer case, (2) buy a new rear driveshaft that can handle the new, sharper angles, and a slip-yoke eliminator kit if you don't have a Rubicon, or (3) raise the engine along with a body lift. I went with option (3) because it was cheaper than the others, it let me fit 33" tires on the Jeep and fit a 33" spare on the stock carrier, and I'm set up to add a high-clearance transmission skid plate some day if I choose.
• M.O.R.E. body lift includes a steering shaft relocation bracket. Another highly recommended body lift is JKS. I liked M.O.R.E. better; if you choose a JKS body lift, order the steering shaft bracket from M.O.R.E.
• JKS also makes a "budget" motor mount lift. I might choose this if I had it to do over again, simply for price.

Regarding warranty, Jeep is very accommodating of lift kits. Their policy is: if the lift didn't cause the damage, they'll cover it. My brother has a 2" lift on his Wrangler and his transfer case cracked in half on the freeway. Jeep looked and said it was covered!

My discussion here only scratches the surface. If you want more info, please feel free to email me. I've installed lift kits on 4 Wranglers now, and I've learned a few tricks along the way.

Answer 2

there are a number of the right thank you to strengthen a motor vehicle: the main suitable way and the incorrect way. of direction you already know that the main suitable way is in lots of cases extra high priced. such numerous males have lifted automobiles in simple terms to realize that they hate the experience, aggravated on the excessive gasoline intake, loss of power, and destroy areas on a typical foundation. The limitless seems quite dazzling with a strengthen kit. Your speedometer would be off and it rather is quite helpful to alter the front and rear kit ratios. evaluate beefing up the engine and brakes somewhat with the extra suitable height and weight of the tire. opt for a tire that suits your making use of. in case you're offroading under 15% of the time (few human beings do extra suitable than that), pass with an all terrain tire; which will final lots longer than a dirt terrain. join the various off highway magazines. There are some dozen nicely time-honored carry organizations. communicate with pals to confirm what they prefer. endure in innovations there'll be parking garages which you will not extra wholesome decrease than from now on.

Answer 3

You need to remove the coil springs,bump stops and shocks and replace them with new lift kit.It is a do it yourself job if you have some experience with coil springs.You don't want to remove coils if you don't know what you are doing,I got a 3 inch lift installed for less than $200.00 and it was worth it.The lift you want depends on the size tires you want to put under it,remember if you put 33 inch or larger tires you will have to put in new gearing.

Answer 4

Drive to the proper position on the lift, move the arms into position, make sure you will contact the lift points on the frame, and press the power button.

Raise it high enough to get under it to do whatever work you need to do, then take the safety off and lower it back down.

No problem.

Answer 5

some work is involved but not as much as if it was an IFS....nothing a 30 pack wouldn't make easier....4 inches is nice...anything less it's not worth it...nice round number....keep it legal and sturdy....legal is relative though....your taste and where you live.....any big name kits...superlift...etc...don't buy the off the shelf parts....it's DIY if you have the will...it's not particularly hard since you have a solid axle

Answer 6

cant answer your question but i do have a little advise: if you have a warrenty on your vehicle before you lift it check and make sure it does not void your warrenty.. i work in a service dept and i have seen this happen B4