what does clay need to be like perfect top soil? what needs to be put in compost w/ clay to make better dirt?

Question

My dirt is clay. I'm trying to do a compost with it but it doesn't seem to be much better, i'm sure it has more nutrients, but i later heard that clay is already full of nutrients. So what do i need to add to clay dirt, to make it perfect garden dirt? thanks ahead of time,

Answer 1

These are all decent answers- here's my take:

Add composted organics- leaf mold, composted manure, composted bark, potting soil, etc. Organics need to be integrated into the soil (tilled or spaded). Organics help change the structure of the clay particles and keeps them from sticking together. This makes the soil more friable and allows water and air to enter the soil matrix more easily. This is the biggest thing you can do to improve the structure of clay soil.

Additionally, you can add gypsum. Gypsum works on clay electrolytically to make the clay particles break up. It doesn't last forever, so needs to be re-applied periodically. It also adds sulfur and calcium to soils.

Finally, adding coarse sand to clay can alter the structure of the soil. Clay is the very finest particle of dissolved rock. Sand is the largest. By combining the two, the structure of the soil is altered, making the clay particles less likely to stick together. In my opinion, this is the least effective way to condition clay. It takes a lot of sand to make a difference.

Consider combining all three for a quicker improvement. take 2/3 compost and 1/3 coarse sand and mix them together. Add a few pounds of gypsum to the soil and then spread a layer (4" deep) of the sand/compost mixture to your garden bed. Then till or spade it into the clay about 6" deep. The key is integration. The better you mix up the soils, the faster you will see results.

As far as nutrients go, the clay can have a good nutritive value, but generally indigenous soils lack a little. You should probably assume that you'll need to fertilize any planting that you do. Controlled release fertilizers like osmocote and nutricote work well and are easy. They last all season and don't generally need re-application.

Answer 2

It takes time, like years, to break apart the clay, be patient. At least twice a year add organic matter. Adding too much manure can raise the salt level to where the plants die. Really no more than an inch or two of manure twice a year is more than adequate. Even them be careful with the type of manure, chicken is very "hot" or high in nitrogen and will burn plants. Stick with the cow, horse, rabbit and maybe even sheep.

Compost is already partially decomposed and the salts leached out, you can add more than 2 inches each time.

Avoid sand at all cost. Yes, they are greatly different in size but sand is still too small. The clay coats the sand particles making, in a sense, "natural concrete." We experimented with sand on clay for maing putting greens and found the amount of sand needed was in the multiple feet!

If you haven't added gypsum, get a soil sample to the Extension Service office for testing at the state's ag university soil lab. There are some types of clays that you many never tame........well, you can but they are far more difficult to work with. Call the Extension Office to learn how to properly take a soil sample......do a Google to find the office in your county, it's probably faster than going thru the phone book. (Your state) Cooperative Extension Service should get your started.

Answer 3

Clay has the nutrients the plant needs, but it doesn't have the air pockets that they need. Mix in regular dirt and plant compost, no manure because it already has plenty of nutrients. Add anything to give the soil some air pockets that the pants crave.

Answer 4

First add either Lime or Gypsum... plus organic matter like leaves & compost.
If you don't want acid soil, lime 'sweetens' it. Gypsum won't change the soil Ph.
Both improve the soil's ability to drain better & take in more oxygen. You can begin with it Gypsum because it really helps to break up and unlock your clay dirt.

Other things you can add that'll help improve clay soil:
Sheep,horse or cow manure. You don’t need to dig this in- just spread over your soil and rake it in.

Mushroom compost is very good as it is ph neutral. Most plants will react well to it.

Pelletised complete fertilizer – often made up of seaweed concentrate, blood and bone, fish manure, as well as chicken manure. Spread liberally by the handful. This is a great organic method of improving your soil.

Blood and bone – is great because it contains slow release nitrogen, and also phosphorus and calcium. If you use this as your soil improver of choice, be sure to add som potash too. Roughly add 2 cups per bucket of blood an bone mix

Dolomite (limestone) is a wonderful soil conditioner if you have acidic or clayey type of soil. Dolomite limestone is not a fertiliser, rather it's a soil unlocker. Dolomite is composed of calcium and magnesium. It helps break it up. Dolomite is slow acting, and therefore does not react against your manures. Spread it on liberally and dig it in.
http://www.mygarden.net.au/flex/clay_soil_how_to_improve_clay_soil/128/1blood and bone – is
Good luck! Hope this helps.

Answer 5

gypsum helps break down clay soil
compost and manure will greatly help prevent the soil from getting rock hard

you see, clay soil is not really that bad, it contains needed nutrients. problem is that it is too dense "very poor root grouth and the water just seems to run off instead of saturating the soil"

so add organic matter and gypsum
in the mean time just add grass clippings th help prevent your plants "if you have any" from dring up

unit

Answer 6

I add (lots of) soil amendment to my clay. I get it at a garden center for $15 a pick-up truck load. It looks like large sawdust but you can actually grow plants directly in it. I planted my strawberries in it to keep down the weed growth. It is easy to pull the weeds that do grow.