How do I fix wobbly half wall?

Question

I am building a wall at the top of our stairs that is connected to one wall. I framed it up with a footer and 16 center studs. It is still really wobbly at the free standing end. I know that the drywall will help a little bit, but I don't think it will help enough. Any ideas as to how I can reinforce it or if I need to tear it down and start over???
Any help would be great!!

Answer 1

1 and 2 have valid suggestions, but you may not want to damage flooring?

You mention drywall will help. If you havent covered the half wall yet, you might try a notched JOINT on the footer and header for the end cap, then use a double end cap, supporting more the interior one with PLATES designed to secure framing, and attach the outer end cap to the inner.

You might also SHAVE the top and bottom of the outer/ end cap, allowing for a 1/4 inch plywood triangle to support at both the horizontal and verticle. I do it for theatrical constrcution all the time,,,flushing that measurement with the studs, footer, and header.

You could skin the framing with a thin sheet of ply, attached, then face that with drywall, and if need be; molding at corners, etc.

Obvious to how sturdy the half wall will be, also depends on whether or not it will become a grip point to pull oneself up to the landing, or held too just as one descends.

Steven Wolf

Answer 2

Building A Half Wall

Answer 3

Since your problem is not racking because one end is secured to a wall, and is movement in the opposite direction (falling into the stairwell), there are two options.
1. Continue free end stud through floor and attach to joists or blocking between joists.
2. Make the free standing end so it isn't anymore. Place a post or couple of studs from floor to ceiling. To secure these, you may need a top plate on the ceiling. In essence, its no longer a half wall, but a wall with a large window in it, but much safer.

Answer 4

Two ways. You can buy some type of L-bracket and attach it the last stud and subfloor with screws. The problem is it will create a hump in the finish floor.

The other way is to cut a bit of the subfloor up at the end, make the last stud of the free end long and block it the floor joists, meaning use some 2x to solidly tie the last stud in the floor joists with screws preferably, and then replace the subfloor. It takes longer, you need to put the last stud in, replace the subfloor, and then build the wall, but the result should be really sturdy.

Answer 5

I had a similar problem.I used screws for the frame construction they are stonger and hold better. The part that butts to the wall I made sure screwed to a stud. The plate I screwed to the floor( in my case i used expansion bolts it was concrete). I put large reinforcing angle brackets in all four corners. When I apllied the skin in my case plywood covered with formica it stopped any racking and was sturdy. Just an example it may not apply in your case but maybe any of these steps might help.

Answer 6

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You need to draft a letter to the landlord outlining the problems. Several of the repair issues are major issues that could certainly void a lease, but the landlord MUST have received notice of the problems and been given the opportunity to fix them. Dog poop - Complain to the landlord. Photograph or video it happening Drug Dealer - Call the police Bikes in the hallway - Complain to the landlord Parties "all the time" with young kids - Call the Police & complain to the landlord Noise at all hours of the day in the hall - Complain to the landlord Pot smokers - Call the Police & complain to the landlord Lit Cigarette Butts - Complain to the landlord Neighbors banging on walls - Complain to the landlord & if it gets bad enough, call the police People banging on door at 5am - Call the Police Landlord taking "forever" to fix things - When you contact him about a problem, give him a deadline to fix it by. If he doesn't fix it by then, find out if your state has "repair & deduct" laws. Stairs, Fire Alarms, and Electrical Problems are major problems that *could* make the place uninhabitable and therefore, you would have grounds to move out.

Answer 7

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Answer 8

Secure it through the floor sheathing to the joists.This is the practice for a railing for outdoor deck @ stair or drop to ground bigger than 2 steps.Compare it to that. Safety is the issue, especially at heights.People have been sued because of failure of this railing or knee-wall.

Start over and make it sturdy!Ask your building department for a detail drawing you can use.