In the process of selecting audio and video equipment, such as a power—or integrated—amplifier, one of the best places to begin is by researching potential products using in-depth reviews from experienced, responsible, and knowledgeable consumer electronics reviewers. These types of resources have the benefit of mixing and matching various combinations of equipment in an attempt to find the greatest synergy. Combine this with the manufacturer's specifications—or better yet independently measured specifications—to further narrow down the field of prospective candidates.
Aside from the obvious low noise and distortion specs, as well as a sufficiently wide frequency response that extends beyond both ends of the audible range while remaining within a very narrow tolerance in amplitude, there are some other key specs that merit careful consideration. These specs include the amplifier's ability to drive difficult loudspeaker loads whose impedance can dip into the 2-Ohm range (such as the B&W 703,) or below. A good amplifier will always be rated for full power output—peak and RMS—at 4 or even 2 Ohms. Note: always be sure to choose an amplifier with sufficient power output that easily meets the loudspeaker manufacturer's minimum recommendations as well as matching the type of audio content you'll be listening to. The output impedance (and/or damping factor) is also important as it provides an indication of how well an amplifier can control the load (i.e., the loudspeaker); all other things being equal the lower the output impedance and/or the higher the damping factor the better. This is particularly beneficial for amplifiers that are used to power subwoofers. (Note: in general vacuum tube amplifiers will have a noticeably worse output impedance and damping factor specification due to the inherent nature of the output (or impedance-matching) transformer.) It is also important to note that the audio signal path in any well-designed amplifier will be totally isolated from the amplifier's protection circuitry.
If you listen to a significant amount of stereo audio then I highly recommend that you start by purchasing a high quality, high performance stereo power amplifier (or separate monoblocks) to power your front left and right channels, presumably the B&W 703s. Beyond this you have the flexibility to mix and match various monoblocks, stereo and/or multichannel amplifiers for the remaining channels of a surround sound system. One obvious benefit to this approach is that if any of the amplifiers fail you will likely have two or more channels of amplification at your disposal rather than risk losing all amplification, which would result whenever a single multichannel amplifier fails or malfunctions and requires service. The downside is that you would need a few more (dedicated) AC outlets within your listening room. (Ideally any good listening room or home theater will have several separate branches of dedicated AC from the distribution panel.)
Once you've narrowed down your list of prospective amplifiers the true test will come when you personally audition each of the amplifiers, preferably with the same brand and model of loudspeakers. The ideal scenario would be the opportunity for you to audition any prospective purchases, such as amplifiers, connected to your own equipment within your own listening room.
Though far from comprehensive I have assembled the short list below containing some of the more well-respected, frequently recommended, high performance brands and models of (mostly stereo) amplifiers. The range of prices for the products listed below varies considerably. Keep in mind that ultimately the “best” amplifier(s) will be those which sound best to you in your own home.
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SOLID STATE AMPLIFICATION
Classé Audio
CA-2200 Stereo Power Amplifier
http://www.classeaudio.com/delta/specs/ca2200.htm
Classé Power Amplifiers
http://www.classeaudio.com/delta/amplifiers-menu.htm
Mark Levinson
Nº 431 Power Amplifier
http://www.marklevinson.com/products/overview.asp?prod=no431
Nº 434 Power Amplifier
http://www.marklevinson.com/products/overview.asp?prod=no434
Simaudio
(Choose any amplifier model that fits your budget.)
http://www.simaudio.com
Moon W-6 Mono Amplifiers
http://www.simaudio.com/moonw6.htm
FM ACOUSTICS
Resolution Series 411-MKII Power Amplifier
http://www.fmacoustics.com/c_dom_fm_411-2.html
Primare Systems
http://www.primare.net/00002/00041/default.asp
http://www.sumikoaudio.net/primare/idx_products.htm
Musical Fidelity
http://www.musicalfidelity.com/products/index.html
Anthem™/Sonic Frontiers International
http://statement.anthemav.com
Halo by Parasound
http://www.parasound.com/halo/
Ayre Acoustics
(V-5xe Power Amplifier)
http://www.ayre.com
Rotel
(Any of their new Class D amplifiers.)
http://www.rotel.com/products/multichannel-power-amplifiers.htm
Channel Islands Audio
D•200 Class D Monoblock Amplifier (pair)
http://www.ciaudio.com/D200.html
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VACCUM TUBE AMPLIFICATION
Cary Audio Design
CAD 120S Stereo Vacuum Tube Power Amplifier
http://www.caryaudio.com/products/classic/CAD120S.html
Balanced Audio Technology
VK-55 Balanced Power Amplifier
http://www.balanced.com/products/amp/Vk-55/index.html
http://www.balanced.com/products/amp/index.html
2007-08-13 16:12:29
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answer #1
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answered by ? 5
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Hi. In the days before HomeTheater choosing a new Amplifier was much easier than a Surround Sound Receiver.You either bought a Stereo Integrated Amplifier or a separate Stereo Preamplifier and Stereo Power Amplifier .Now you have to decide on a Home Theater Receiver with 5,6 ,7 or more built in Power Amplifiers,a built in Preamplifier Processor and Tuner or separate units and of course all the different digital processing and features that are continually upgraded so that as soon as you buy your Receiver it is superseded the next day .If you want one of the best at the moment the Emotiva DMC-1 Pre-Amplifier Processor and the Emotiva MPS1 Multichannel Power Amplifier is a good choice.Of course if you haven't got a good Source to start with no Preamplifier can make up for or improve the signal if it is degraded from the Source.
http://www.ultimateavmag.com/surroundsoundpreampprocessors/805emo/
2007-08-13 12:46:32
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answer #2
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answered by ROBERT P 7
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Sub woofers need RMS which is directly related to voltage.An amplifier will amplify the weak input signal which is similar to voltage into strong signals .Let say your car audio can produce 15x2 or x4 RMS out puts which can run small coils of small speakers . RMS( root mean square) is derived from voltage and resistance inside the speaker wire or connecting wires. If you would like to run a Bass sound . and since subs need more RMS because they have much bigger coils to produce bigger pressures therefor there must be more voltage made by an amplifier. So you don't have an amplifier, this is what you can do. You can set up a pair of 6x9 woofers(not subwoofers) inside a box which is ported and use it with ur existing car audio. Remember, by connecting more speakers you won't get better sound and it will heat up your car audio system. By the way connecting speakers in parallel will make your speaker's resistance in to half and by connecting is serial it will be doubled. This is very important...always keep in mind to calculate the resistance and deffinately polarity of wires. Hope you will enjoy
2016-05-21 03:06:31
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answer #3
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answered by hermine 3
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its a personal preference, but this is what i believe will do an exceptional job. i would give these speakers between 150-200 rms.
NAD M15 Surround Sound Preamplifier
http://nadelectronics.com/products/home_theatre_amplifiers/M15-Surround-Sound-Preamplifier/
NAD M25 7-Channel Amplifier
http://nadelectronics.com/products/home_theatre_amplifiers/M25-7-Channel-Amplifier/
i would try different amplifiers and see what you like best, i will just reccomend some.
2007-08-12 17:20:11
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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Ayre Acoustics V-5xe
2016-11-07 06:00:57
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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look it depend if u ever want to add more speakers
2007-08-12 16:48:57
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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