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I am about to buy a house in which the previous owner laid ceramic tyle in a laundry room. I'd like to keep the tile, but when he laid it, he didn't stop at the rear door. He kept laying all the way through the doorway and to the outside step. He didn't install a threshold with weatherstripping. He instead hung the wrong kind of door, and it has a gap that both hot air and water can get in through. I plan on installing pre-hung insulated steel doors and need to remove the tile in the doorway so I can get the pre-hung door and frame to fit. Any suggestions?

2007-08-05 06:13:47 · 3 answers · asked by nolaphoto1 2 in Home & Garden Decorating & Remodeling

3 answers

First get a hand grout removal blade (looks like single edge razor blade with tungsten carbide grit on edge). Scrape out the grouting on the outside tiles and the ones that go under the door. That keeps tiles from cracking during the next step.

Next put a flat blade under the outermost tile and bang on it until the tile is loosened. Repeat until you have gone through all of the outside tiles and the ones just under the door. Scrape off any cement or glue stuck to their bottom side. Now that all of those are off you are ready for final step.

Measure how close to the door you want the tiles to end. Transfer that mark onto a tile so you can cut it. Either buy or rent a tile cutter and cut the tile along the line you made. If you have a problem on the first few cuts then you could use some of the extra ones from outside till you get them cut neatly. Now refasten those tiles along the door edge with thin set cement or adhesive. When that is dry apply grout that matches the original grout and you are done.

2007-08-05 06:31:06 · answer #1 · answered by Rich Z 7 · 1 1

A 4 1/2 grinder will accept a blade that will cut through the tile so you can install the pre-hung door. Measure and add 1/2 inch to insure you get enough room to install the door. After the installation you can add a piece of (shoe) or quarter round to cover the small gap.

Silicone, white lightning,liquid nails or some type of adhesive sealant should be used.

2007-08-05 06:38:38 · answer #2 · answered by russbillen 4 · 1 0

can't you find any larger sized tiles? Sounds like we're down to the joists. Make sure they're ok, replace as necessary. May as well install some solid blocking while you're down there. screw or ring shank nail in place, every 4 feet. Use 3/4 subfloor. construction adhesive, then ring shank nails. Nail according to schedule-what is it 6 in the field and 8 on the edges? read up. Choose a tilebacker. I prefer denshield. follow the instructions. laminate to subfloor with mortar, use roofing nails or screws every 8 inches, stagger joints, don't put a joint on a subfloor joint. tape joints and fill with mortar. Decide how you want your tile. you can dry lay them if you like. Perhaps you can break a few of those 16" monsters if you handle them enough times. Aren't there any 30" tile in your area? Better get a 1" x 1" notched trowel, like you're going to lay flagstone. Snap some lines if you like. Once you mortar over them, you won't be able to find them anymore. But everyone should try this at least once. Pull a line from a nail to a nail and keep it up off the floor by a 1/4 or 1/2 inch with a piece of plywood. Lay off this line to begin with. Use spacers and you'll find it difficult to screw up. Lay all your tile up against a wall and see if they are all the same size first. You will need mortar to set the tile in, and you should grout afterwards. When choosing grout, choose between black, midnight black, raven, and charcoal. Or go outside and get some of your local dirt and mix it with some animal **** and some bacon grease and red wine and try to match this color. Better yet, use epoxy grout. If you put it on your 16" tile, you should be able to apply it with a tuck pointing trowel. Keep some slippers in your entry closet and offer them to any women who say that your floor looks cold.

2016-05-19 04:37:35 · answer #3 · answered by darby 3 · 0 0

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