How to: Tile you Kitchen floor?

Question

My husband and I are going to try tiling the kitchen floor ourselves. Can someone please give me step by step instructions on how it should be done and also waht materials we will need. Also any pointers or tips are really apperciated.

FYI: We will be using 18 inch porcilin tile.

Answer 1

I'm kind of surprised it took this long for any answer? Mine took awhile to type :)

The first step would be to determine what the sub floor will be. Whatever the existing finish floor is now; should be removed. Tile can be installed over Plywood or MDF. You need not strictly have concrete backer board as a sub floor. It should be level/not flex/ and not have screw heads or nail heads protruding.

Then the room should be "squared". By that I mean, take measurements in two directions to determine the size of the layout, and run perpendicular snap lines. I often lay out two courses of tile to determine the eventual CUTS I'll have to make. That way YOU can determine how many full pieces go where and look best where. Then I save all the cutting for the end of the job. I try to have the CUTS as same size pieces when at all possible,,, or at least give that illusion. In your case, with a 1/4 inch spacer you'll have to figure one inch added for every 4 tiles,,,if in fact they are exactly 18 inch.

You may have cove base molding which should be removed.

You might RENT a wet saw, or get a Diagonal grinder and a diamond blade, for the cuts. You should assume no less than 10% for waste and OOOPS, plus have a box for future issue, as tile stock is not a forever thing in lots on store shelves.

Once you have the layout figured, you can begin setting. I suggest 1/4 inch grout lines; Thinset/polyblend mortar, mixed to the consistency of mashed potato. Working with a rectangular "Trowel/Knife, with 1/4 inch "teeth" work against a chalk line, probably in no more than 4 tiles at a time in your case...keeping in mind an EXIT strategy so you don't have to disrupt any set tiles. Using spacers (+) shaped, inserted in the eventual grout lines, press the tile GENTLY into the mortar. I also use a level as well as my hand constantly running over each successive piece for Flat/Level.

Remember you can wait till the end to install the cuts; at the perimeter walls and those around cabinets etc.

You can also use the rubber spacers to pull out any real excess mortar from the grout lines.

24 hours set time, you can walk on the tile. Then it's on to grouting.

In a color you choose, I suggest a Poly blend/Sanded grout and mixed in small quantities, to a similar consistency as was the mortar. For application you should have at least one rectangular, rubberized Trowel, and large/flat grout wiping sponges; a bucket handy, with water, and again work toward an exit area in smallish areas at a time. Grout is a more rapid set than mortar, but will need as much time eventually to be cured in.

You can scoop it from the mixing bucket with a paint knife/scraper, or the rubberized trowel, and press it into the grout lines (after removing the spacers). Then using the grout trowel, which in essence is a type of squeegie, scrape along the grout into the grout lines perpendicular or at any angle to them, as opposed to straight along. Try to note voids or air bubbles in the grout to avoid having to go back over.

Since two of you are doing the job; one can apply while the other follows behind with the wiping. You can work out the logistics of that.

Again,,, in an area you can manage; wet the sponge; wring it out as dry as possible and wipe at the grout lines in the same way it was applied, at an angle. This process might take 3 steps? Each one being that as the grout sets, the sponging can be slightly more damp. Proper use of the Grouting squeegie will allow that you won't have large lumps of grout to wipe away. IF/ AND; as your grout seems to be setting in the bucket,,,stir it, or even add a few drops ONLY of water to assure that you aren't installing grout already drying too much,,, but avoiding that it becomes FLUID.

You need not apply any real PRESSURE to the grout wiping, just consistency and work it in steps.

Assume also that once you're comfortable that you haven't left or removed too much grout, LEAVE IT ALONE. Once dry it will leave a filmy residue which can be mopped after the fact.

Allow another 24 hours before moving anything onto the floor, and most especially when possible don't DRAG anything across the floor into place.

Then enjoy the job by having an after party,,,even for just the two of you.

It may not be a NEATLY performed procedure, but certainly a DIY can do a great job.

Steven Wolf

Answer 2

the 1st factor is i'd desire to understand is this laminate glue or snap at the same time (do you desire to maintain this floor ?) in case you donot care that's a thank you to eliminate your laminate first of all determine which way the laminate is started out this provides you with a solid beginning factor. this would desire to easily fold up ward ____/ like that once you start up up you will desire to have the capacity to soak up thold laminate in one million hour. determine you eliminate all your wall base first., that's what holds down the laminate. After it is up you will would desire to confirm what style of underlayment is on the subfloor. the main person-friendly is durock in case you're putting down ceramic . despite if that's vinyl tiles then you would desire to apply luan (one million/4" thick use the comparable thickness for the durock). you will desire to degree you length and width of the floor magnificent chalk lines to confirm the place your beginning factor is ( you do this with the two style of floor).in case you like extra preparation e mailme.