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4 answers

It all depends on if you have equity in your car or if you are upside-down on it.
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Equity (being upright): Means that the value of your car is GREATER than the amount you owe the bank for your vehicle.

In-Equity (being upside-down): Means that the value of your car is LESS than the amount you owe the bank for your vehicle.

After contacting your lender and verifying your payoff, see what your car is worth on the NADA website to find out if you are upright or upside down.
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If you have equity in your car, then the dealership will pay off your old note with the value of your car and SUBTRACT the remaining balance from the cost of the new car.

If you are upside-down in your car, then the dealership may elect to pay off your note and ADD the remaining balance to the cost of the new car.

Typically 37 months into a 60 month loan is when you achieve equity, but that's very situational.

Don't let the dealer trick you by not giving you a fair price for your old car. That is equally as important as the cost of the new car.

2007-07-23 03:56:54 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Well...depends on if you owe more than the trade-in value. If you do owe more (which is the predicament I'm in right now), yes, the remaining balance you owe will be tacked on to your new car balance. If the trade-in value is greater than what you owe, that amount would be subtracted from the new car balance.

2007-07-23 03:44:19 · answer #2 · answered by Sunidaze 7 · 1 0

Generally, yes it does. Of course this is the pay off balance not the interest. Call your loan officer and ask for the pay off balance. This will be the amount that is added to your new car purchase.

2007-07-23 03:43:06 · answer #3 · answered by dukeandpaleface2004 1 · 0 0

In general yes but that also depends on the value of your car in contrast to what you still owe.
Say you have a car that is valued at 2000 dollars and the dealer is willing to give you 2000 dollars for the car because it is th value of it they pay it off. So it zeros out. However if you owe 2500 on a car and it is valued at 2000 there is a 500 dollar difference. Those 500 dollars will be rolled into your loan.
So say you buy a new car for 10000 it will actually result in a price of 10500.
I hope this helps.

2007-07-23 03:42:59 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 1 1

when you trade in a car that is not paid off the dealer will pay off the balance of the car.if you owe more on your trade than its worth the extra will be added to your new balance, like if you owed $5000.00 but trade value is only $4500.00 they would add $500.00 to your new loan balance

2007-07-23 03:44:02 · answer #5 · answered by suzukifox01 2 · 0 0

No but you will have a new car and be upside down in the loan practically until it's paid off due to the negative equity. If you plan to keep the car, it's great, but will cost you thousands if you ever want out of it.

2007-07-23 05:03:24 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Not really, the dealership is going to give you a trade in value for your old car, you subtract that value from what you owe and the difference is what you will get stuck adding to your new car financing.

2007-07-23 03:40:09 · answer #7 · answered by opinionmeister 2 · 0 0

Just say the car you traded in, they are giving you $8000.00 for it and you still owe $5000.00 on it. They will take $5000.00 and pay it off and apply the $3000.00 to your new one. Hope this helps.

2007-07-23 03:45:18 · answer #8 · answered by summergirl 5 · 0 0

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First, of all the market was a screaming buy in februaly, March, and April. It is probably back to normal now, and will probably provide a more or less average return over a period of 30 or more years. It is trading at 14 times long-term average earnings, more or less, and the 130-year historical average is about 15 times earnings. So it is only a little cheaper than average, and therefore only a bit more of a "buy" then average. If you only look back 2, 10, 20 or 30 years, you get a really skewed picture of how cheap it is. You shouldn't put money in the market you might need to take out in less than 30 years. Many would argue with that statement. The convention wisdom is 10 years, but that does not account for ther interest you would have earned if you had put it in the typical bank money market account or treasury bills for 10 years. In the short run, it could double or could be cut in half. If the 1% interest rate is fixed, and cannot be increased for any reason other then you being more than 30 days or more late paying them, then I would leave the loan in place and pay the regular payments. If it is variable loan, or if they can jack up the interest rate, I'd go ahead and pay it off. In general, though, it is best to start with no debt other than student loan debt and low-interest primary mortgage debt, before investing in stocks and mutual funds. An exception to this is if your company's 401-k /retiremnt plan has amatching funds feature. in which case you should always invest enough to get the full matching. But, other than that, you should follow this following general outline: First, save about one month of living expenses in cash. Second, split your potential savings (besides 401 -K minimum for matching) 50-50 between paying off your car loans credit cards, consumer loans, and high interest or variable student loans, second mortgages, home equity loans, or home equity lines of credit and saving up an emergency fund equal to about a year's worth of living expenses. Third, once you have no high-interest or variable or potentially variable debt, split your savings 50-50 between building up your emergency fund and investing in a 401-K and/or IRA and/or Roth IRA or Roth 401-K. You should not bother investing in non-tax advantaged mutual funds or stocks or other investments like real estate until you are already saving about $500 per month in a 401-K or IRA or Roth IRA. (If you are able to invest in both types of accounts, I'd split my tax-advantaged retirement account saving evenly between Roth IRAs and 401-Ks and tradidtional IRAs. and 401-Ks.) Once you are saving a total of $500 per month in one or more tax advantaged accounts, and have no high-interest or variable or potentially variable debt, you can invest in stocks or mutual funds. The 50-50 rule applies. Of the 50% going to investing, whatever is left over after you invest $500 per month in a tax-advantaged retirement account schould go to mutual fund investing. If you have kids and you want to save for their college, do that with some of the money that is left over after you invest about $500 per month in tax-advantaged retirement accounts. It doesn't much matter whether you use college savings vehicles like educational IRAs or Uniform Gift to Minors Accounts. You trade marginal tax savings for a whole lot less control and a lot more risk when you do that. Fifth, once you have a 1-year emergency fund, you can devote 100% toward investments, and college, and your $500 per month in retirement savings. You need not pay off your mortgage early. I'd even be comfortable with somebody taking out a 30-year fixed rate, low-interest mortgage at age 50 or 60. There are some advantages to doing this, both from a return perspective and from a liquidity/risk perspective. tha last thing you want is to end up with hunreds of thaousands of dollars in home equity, and nothing besides social security to actually live off of and to handle emergencies.

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2016-08-24 09:35:56 · answer #10 · answered by ? 4 · 0 0

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