Canon AE-1?

Question

Does anyone happen to have the Canon AE-1 shutter times? (Night, Day (Cloudy, Sunny)
It would be extremley helpful. The ones I have are incorrect.
Thanks!

The settings for shutterspeed and F/stop.

Answer 1

I have my manual sitting next to me, but I'm not sure what you mean. Can you elaborate a bit?

Answer 2

Film used to come with little papers in them that told you how to set y our camera per condition. The AE-1 is an advance on that, but you can still do it the old way. If you want the old way, there are a bunch of photo books that will tell you enough.

Since I have A-1s and an AE1 (not the AE1 program), I would tell you to set the ASA (which is the ISO number, they just changed the name of it) to what the box says, insert your film into the camera and make sure that it is wrapped OK, then turn your camera on and look through the viewfinder and there you will find the meter. Look at one item and while you are looking at it, change the f stops on the lens and see what differences that makes in the meter reading.

Your camera has both a program mode and an auto mode. If you shoot on auto, set your camera at, say, 1/250th of a second, and let the camera do the work.

You need a book of some sort to sort of retell you the relationship of film speed, shutter speed, and aperture and then you are off to the races. The AE1 is an excellent camera to learn on and a camera store in town has called me to see if they could get mine today for a beginning student.

Photo Ace is a bit blunt with his answer and should respect that everyone does not know what he knows - that is what this venue is for.

Answer 3

Uhh, yeah...Nice copying and pasting from Wikipedia, dude. Yes, you need to use 35mm film. The most common type of film. It comes in canisters and you can find it almost anywhere. Now, finding GOOD film is another matter. Most places nowadays just carry crappy 400 ASA consumer-level film. To get the most out of your camera, go for something a little less general-purpose and cheap. 400 ASA isn't bad, but the higher the speed, the more grain you get. Grain is like digital noise. Except not quite as ugly...and sometimes used for artistic effects. If you see 135 on a box, for some reason it means 35mm, though I have yet to figure out why. Some of the most famous kinds are Fujichrome Velvia 50, Provia 100F, Kodachrome 64, Ilford, Efke, Tri-X, and T-MAX. The final four are black and white, and the first three are slide (or positive) films. I'm not really familiar with good colour print films, but I've used Fujicolor 200 a couple times and it's nice. Oh, and I think all those B&W films are also "real B&W". Just meaning they use a hand-developed process rather than C-41. It may cost more to get it done, unless you buy a dark bag, developing tank, and chemicals. That only gets your film developed, though. For printing, you either need a full darkroom or to bring your developed negatives to the laboratory to have them printed from there. Printing would be the regular price. It's only the developing that's more expensive than C-41 film, because it's done by hand.

Answer 4

The top flash synch is 1/60th. As for shutter and aperture settings, they are no different than for any camera. Take a class or get a book in beginning photography.

The AE-1 is a great camera, I shot with it and a 50mm lens for 20 years. I still have it, but it now has an exposure problem that keeps re-occuring, so I don't use it any more.

Answer 5

It all depends on the type of film you are using, what the EI/ASA is of the film. Rule of thumb is f16 for sunny days at the shutter speed equal to the EI of the film. Cloudy days, open up 2 or 3 fstops. Night time, just experiment.

Answer 6

what are you talking about, did your school teach exposure?

shutter speed depends on ISO and appeture