How to prepare natural fertiliser?

Question

By natural fertilizers, we may prevent soil and water pollution

Answer 1

When thinking of natural fertilizers I think of the compost pile, animal manure, green manure crops, etc. If this is the answer that you are looking for others have pretty well covered the subject and there is not a lot I can add to it, so I won't try. But when I read your question, an article that I had read sprang to mind that you may be interested in. It was a new concept to me and may sometime make a big impact on agriculture. I found the web site for the article so I won't go inti it. You can read it if you are interested, but just to say it is about making a granular all natural fertilize that could be marketed with a guaranteed analysis.
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5021077-description.html

Answer 2

It is call composting.

Or Compose.

This will depend on the type of operation, for small garden you may need 2' x 2' area to collect waste from the garden, kitchen(vegetable pilings) and let it decompose, the decomposition can be helped to great extent by sprinkling 18,18,18 fertiliser, and some soil from the garden, on the heap of garden waste, and turning it over and sprinkling some water.

Rotating drums are available for this purpose, waste is loaded in the drum and rotated once a day, every day and water and fertiliser is added at the start, after that only water is added. It is a batch process so people have two heap, and use them alternately. In case of drum, you still have two additional heaps and the drum.

Tricks:
Use 4 stakes say 8 ft long berry it 1 ft in the ground in the 4 corners of the 2' x 2'(it could be any size), take a Burlap cloth and make a wall 6 ft high, nail the three sides but 4 th side is tied to the stake so you can open it from time to time to work the heap (turn it over).

Some dig a hole in the ground and throw the waste in it with soil and fertiliser , still needs turning, still need two holes, one ready to use and one getting decomposed.

Answer 3

Look at what organic materials are available to you in bulk in your area. Also see what you wish to spend on this project to make up for what you are lacking. I do not know where you are in the world so I have a hard time offering suggestions on what to look for and how to make the most of it. I live here on the beaches of Cape Cod Massachusetts. If I wish to garden with a "No Till" or heavy mulch method, I would be collecting sea weed as often as possible. Everything is available in sea weed and contrary to belief that it contains too much salt, it generally doesn't unless it is freshly soaked with sea water, and then a rinsing before unloading it or away from the garden by a few feet at delivery is all that is needed. All you need is a pickup truck and a pitchfork and go to the 4 wheel drive beach. If driving isn't allowed or not possible then a wide wheeled wheel barrow will be sufficient. If you're real slick you can get the beach sweeper truck to drop off a load to avoid the long haul back to their landfill spot, but the savings on your labor will mean you pick out the garbage. Along with sea weed there is also the marsh grasses and the waste from shellfish to compost.

Get to know the local landscapers and get them to drop off leaves and tree chipper materials but ask them to be selective with those great green grass mowing cuttings to avoid chemicals that may not compost right. I have seen the effect of using clippings from weed treated lawns that were not fully composted. Most of the garden dies or has problems and it takes a while to figure out what the heck the problem is. The proper mix of green and brown materials kept well aerated by turning with a fork (or bucket loader if you have a lot) every day or two and kept moist but not soaked will yield nice material that is very rich. Adding a good amount of manure, especially from bird and you should not need much else. Look at the Berkeley composting process for the fastest turnaround for your material. And look at methane fermenting as a way to get good compost and get a usable gas first if you have the need.

Wherever you are there is something organic, probably right around the corner if you look, and for a little labor it will be free or very cheap. If not leave it alone and keep looking. Keep in mind that even the organic material can ruin ground water. Those with a lot of manure or big rotting bulk piles know this and want it gone so you can frequently get it for just the cost to truck it. The manure source is generally obligated by law to get rid of it and can't have more than a certain amount or pay fines. And it is like that for a lot of materials rich in organics.

Keep in mind also that you may be in a place to get green sand (potassium minerals) and rock phosphate. Along with dolomite they are great long lasting slow release. Some folks need clay. Keep an open mind as well as your eyes. Know what you need in your soil by getting it tested also. Good luck

Answer 4

Assuming you are residing in any temperate region where deciduous trees and grass are available, this is how to make simple compost into dirt, year round.
This is what the majority of my flower gardens consist of.
First, very easy to make an earthworm bed and this is an easy way to aid breaking down compost faster.
Start in a shaded, undisturbed area that remains or can be moistened.
Cover the area with an animal manure like rabbit pellets or debris, like brown leaves. Moisten with water and cover with a sheet of plastic, plastic lid or something of that sort that shades and keeps moisture underneath. You can add manure and leaves occasionally, moisten and recover. In several weeks, worms will be established.
I compost according to the "Wheeler" It is list of suggestions written on a cardboard wheel.
Decide if you want a compost pile, open bin, or enclosed bin.
These 4 items turn items into compost.
Nitrogen-fresh cut grass/veggie-fruit scraps/weeds.
Oxygen-mixing or turning the pile.
Water- keeping the mixture moist. Rain/recycled bath water.
Carbon-fallen leaves/paper shredded/cardboard.

Answer 5

Any fetilizer can cause pollution. The only way to prevent pollution is to test. Soil testing and test the "fertilizer". If you do not know what is needed and what is being applied, you are "shooting in the dark" and may be creating a problem. The waterbodies nor the groundwater knows or cares if the fetilizer is organic or not. It is excessive nutrients that cause the problems.

Answer 6

Any aggrecultural west like Plant leaves, kitchen west are gathered and dumped in a shallow pit and then covered with mud for decomposing leaves as manure after 5-7 days by initiate earthworm which is also called vermi compost .
animal west , human exereata is extreamly good for vermi compost which is called natural fertiliser.

Answer 7

Compost of many sources: coffee ground, expired milk, eggs shells soaked in water, manure from animal waste, etc.

Be careful while handling animal source manure, though. E-coli and other bacteria that are harmful to human may be brought to your home and your system. Make sure you wait long enough for the compost to mature- just let it sit long enough. Wash well those organic produce since some might have poop on them-funny but true in many cases.

Answer 8

all answers are ok but i would advise anyone before they go out and start using any natural forties you first test your soil -- believe me your can add too much of a good thing and do not forget the water table -- most folks get their water from pipes but if you live in the country and have a well you can get unwanted stuff into the ground water that will end up in your well.

Answer 9

Make the cowdung into liquid & spray it on old leaves & other similar wastes. Like this , make 3 or 4 layers . Keep it wet for a month. now , you will get the natural fertilizer & can be used for any plant.

Answer 10

the best form of natural feriliser is rotten leaves.plants shed their leaves.these have to be gathered and dumped in a shallow pit and then covered with mud.the pit has to be moist(not wet).after 5-7 days reopen the pit and use the decomposing leaves as manure.
u can also put all kitchen waste(vegetable peels,left over food stuff,rotten food,even left over meat and egg) directly i.e. put it under the plants and them cover it with moist soil.
all paper waste can also be similarly used.rotten newspapers are specially good for plants.
even human excreata is extremely nutritious for them.
on some farms human waste is collected in a pit and then channelled underground to reach all over the farm without external labour.
similarly all animal waste is good.cowdung is especially recommended.