disc brakes on a mountain bike?

Question

We bought an haro V2 bike for my girlfriend we just want to use it on the road and maybe some light trail riding but not so much just mainly on pavement and or dirt roads. I took the wheel off today to put it in the car and didn't realize you had to do something to the disc brake itself.. Now there is this thing that they say is activated when the wheel is off from the bike and now the wheel won't go around. I guess its a second retention thing or something. WTF is up with this. Why did bikes have to get all technical. I guess I am just old school and am only used to the regular V brakes. Can somebody help me here?

I should have looked over the bike more I didn't even realize we had disc brakes till we got it home and I pulled it out of the car and put the wheel on now there is this thing that goes right inside of the spokes that I just can't get to go anywhere. I didn't even know they put disc brakes on bikes ever at all I thought they were only for cars and such oh well where has this world gone that we gotta make bikes be so technical. The manual even says if you take the wheel off the wrong way this secondary retention device will make the brakes be inoperable until the wheel is put back in the right way. I don't know what is a wrong way or a right way to put it back in. I just put the wheel into the slots and turn the rapid release and snap back in place which is the only way that seems logical to me. I don't know what I am doing wrong. Oh well I am taking it back today and telling them I want just regular brakes on it. Take these dang disc brakes off I don't like the concept of it.

Ok so I am stupid I took it in to the bike shop today and what they did was put the wheel on going the right direction lol and it just snapped on.. no tools no nothing.. two seconds it was done dang I should have looked at it closer but I was just getting off from work and pissed off as well cuz of traffic and having to do something right after getting off from work. I don't know what the best answer was so I will just pick one randomly

Answer 1

Roberto and Mirage.. are correct on spreading the caliper back. My only suggestion would be the for the next time you take the wheel off to transport the bike.
1) find a piece of wood or plastic (I use a paint stir) close to the same thickness as the gap between the brake pads.(get as close to the proper gap as possible to avoid pump up)
2) cut the material so it is only slightly larger than needed to fill area where the rotor was. (if too large it could be knocked out during transport)
3) place the spacer in the slot and put a rubber band securely on the brake lever to clamp the spacer.
What this will do is keep the proper space during transport and not allow the brake to pump up when the brake lever is activated by accident.
I would like to take credit for this idea but can't I learned it from several racers who keep their bikes in the trunk of their cars.

Answer 2

I need to disagree approximately the announcement that no one rather demands disc brakes. A lot will depend on the kind of driving you do. V brakes are first-rate for so much driving, mainly the kind of monitor and paved driving you're suggesting. Because the brake block is at the rim, it signifies that the braking floor comes into touch with water and your braking is for this reason lowered. The truly challenge with V brakes is whilst you're going off street. More in particular, whilst you're going to get muddy. Most dust is not a challenge, seeing that your wheel rotation will throw the dust transparent. The challenge arises as quickly as you hit clay. My final motorbike had V brakes. I used to be out on a membership experience one night time and we went across the discipline boundary (Bridleway went that means). It received clogged up beautiful swiftly. The V brakes did not support and I needed to free up the brakes, however they nonetheless acted to clog up all the dust at the tyres. In the tip I ended up sporting the motorbike for approximately a mile. This could no longer have occurred with Discs. The braking floor is close the hub, so won't get clogged up with water as effectively and, extra to the factor, won't imply that you just come to be with a dust encased wheel. The different motive why disc brakes are well, rather than clearance, is the preventing vigor. The further efficiency signifies that you'll hurtle down the hill and no longer need to pre-plan your give up such a lot. In reality you'll holiday later earlier than hitting the nook or wanting to give up. Mechanical disc brakes don't seem to be first-class and the cable has a tendency to get glagged up, so the efficiency isn't first-class. That mentioned, they have got the dust clearing characteristics wanted. An option could be cantilever brakes. These have the identical drop in efficiency whilst rainy, however the twine cuts via the dust, serving to to shed it. Hydraulics are quality in phrases of efficiency, however anticipate to pay just a little extra. your different alternative is to get V brakes, however with disc equipped hubs. That means, if you happen to wish to improve later you'll. Luck

Answer 3

What I think you're refering to is that the brake level got pushed while there wasn't the disc rotor. This makes the caliper close in and there is no space for the rotor back on.

I think you can take a wide flat screwdriver and gently push the pads apart.

What you need to do next time is to put somehting between the pads in the caliper to prevent the pads from closing again. A piece of carboard does help in this.

Answer 4

Well, not to insult you but you probably overbought. There is no need for discs for the type of riding you do.

I agree with Roberto, but would use a wide paint scraper instead of a screwdriver to ease the caliper apart. If you have hydraulic brakes it is likely you will have to remove the reservoir cap before you do it, then CAREFULLY move the calipers. Replace the cap before you try to actuate the lever.