water test kits?

Question

I plan on purchasing one for my aquarium I'm cycling. Well I saw them and they are quite expensive. What are the most important test kits that I really need? so I don't have to buy all these test kits that I don't really need.

Answer 1

You need to have testing for ammonia, nitrite, and ph at a minimum. I'd get nitrate and water hardness testers just to have them. We did have a question come in last week about why do people stress it. I happen to feel safer myself checking my levels at least once a week because I carry more expensive fish then most is all, and I will not tell you that you are wrong if you test your water. Some may feel it's unecessary, I don't. They are not that expensive either. You could get a master set which would carry for all parameters, but as a minimum, get something to test for your ammonia, nitrite and ph. Do not use those strips either, I find them to be inaccurate and unreliable. Test tubes, meaning liquid reagent testers are the way to go.

JV

Answer 2

Years ago, I was conned into buying a master kit to make sure I didn't kill any fish off. If you are willing to be patient, you don't really need a kit. Here's the method I use for a new tank:

Set it all up, add the declorinator, let it run 48 hours, heater, filter, etc.
Add a small group (6-8 for 30 gal) of bullet proof fish (I prefer zebra danios). Know that that a few may die - this is regardless of a water test kit.

Let the fish cycle the tank for 6-8 weeks. This should be enough time for the whole ammonia, nitrite, nitrate cylce to work.

SLOWLY add fish to the tank, 2 small fish every 2 weeks MAX. I prefer to add a pair a month. You can remove the 'starter' bullet proof fish after adding your first 3 sets to the tank.

The idea is to get the nitrite/nitrate cycle peaked and then going on a regular schedule, then add your 'good' fish. The water tests basically tell you when the levels spike and drop to normal levels. If you're willing to wait and be sure the cycle has started by letting things take it's course, you will be fine.

Good Luck!!

Answer 3

I use the Freshwater Master Test Kit by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals for both my tanks (75 and 10 gallon). This kit holds the minimum in essential tests (pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate), test tubes, caps, color range cards, and direction/problem solver booklet. Each solution bottle holds 1.25 oz of testing solution which can be replaced individually as needed. I have not replaced my test bottles in two years with regular water testing-the solutions last a long time. I got this kit online for about $20.00 on eBay. I highly recommend this kit. Check out these websites for more information. Good luck!

Answer 4

API master freshwater test kit is necessary. it comes with pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, which, contrary to above answer, are ALL extremely important to monitor. and you definitley do need to worry about ammonia after the tank is cycled, it doesnt matter even if you have a canister filter. you also need to worry about nitrite and nitrate after the cycle. you should also have GH and KH tests.
if you want invertebrates or saltwater, a copper test might be necessary, but not very.
if keeping plants, youll need iron and phosphate.

the only needed ones are ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.

Answer 5

most important is ammonia and ph but if you don't have plants you'll also need to test for nitrates iron and other stuff like that is pretty usless enless your afraid you might OD your fish with plant fertilizer I just add 1/5 the recommended amount so the next time I put more in the chances of an OD are unlikely since that makes 2/5 and the plant should have sucked up the fertilizer so it's probably like 1/10 or something but you really don't need as much as they say unless your plants are yellower than lemonade.

Answer 6

Ammonia, pH, nitrate, and general hardness.