Yeah I have a 2002 gsxr 600 and the brake lines have condensation in it and it’s not smooth to brake also is the back brake fluid the same as the front?
2007-06-21 18:10:42 · 7 answers · asked by matrixracer98 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Motorcycles
Hi mate, this is a pretty easy process once you have done it once!
The rear and the front have separate brake resovoirs and if you do the front you might as well do the rear as well so you have peace of mind!
The same sequence applies for both braking systems.
Firstly, you need some equipment!
Go to the local hardware and buy yourself 1.5mtrs of 5mm diameter clear hose. This should fit over your bleed nipples on your brake calipers.
you will also need some break fluid, dot 4 usually for our Jap Bikes.
Get a bucket of warm soapy water with some sort of towel in it just in case you spill some on your plastics. Even set up some clean rag under the front master cyl/resovoir!
You will also need some basic tools as well!
If you havn't done this before, start with your rear break first as there is only one caliper!
O.K, you need to locate you rear brake resovior and remove the cap.
Locate your break caliper and with the appropriate ring spanner crack the bleed nipple and leave it lightly nipped.
Use only the ring end as you don't want to destroy the hex on your nipple and leave the spanner on it!
Place on your clear hose on the bleed nipple and the other end into a resovoir like an old orange juice container!
The next step is to drain off some of your oil. This take a little bit of co-ordination.
Light crack open your bleed nipple and depress your rear break lever fully to the stop, under control, in one fluid movement.
Lock off the bleed nipple and release the break lever slowly, otherwise the backpressure forces oil back to the resovoir and it may spill out!!!
Once you have drained a bit out, but leaving some in the resovoir, unbolt the caliper and spread the break pads apart with a screwdriver carefully whilst cracking your bleed nipple. This will evacuate any burnt oil from your cyl.
remount the brake caliper and place some fresh oil into the resovoir. repeat the first initial step. What you want to do is estimate how much oil is in the line and pump say two or three resoviors through the lines, this will ensure it is clean and free from AIR!
Make sure when you are pumping the new oil through that you don't let it run down to the point where the master cylinder sucks air! You can see th opening on your front brake resovior but the rear one is near you foot peg, but to be safe make sure it has some in it when you bleed it.
This ensures you dont get air into your brake system.
For the front depending on whether you have race lines fitted or the standard it is relatively the same. Bleed one side and the the other!
Don't over complicate it and you should be fine.
Make sure you test it before you go nuts on your favourite piece of road.
Ensure you brake prgressively so you dont get any surprises!
2007-06-22 00:08:03 · answer #1 · answered by Rider ZX10R 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
2002 Gsxr 600
2016-10-04 11:27:28 · answer #2 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
having "condensation" in your brake fluid has nothing to do with smoothness. you will know you have water in your fluid if you get the brakes hot enough to boil - and then you cannot compress the steam and will have NO BRAKES at all. Standard DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid is hygroscopioc and water completely disolves in it. As water content increases the boiling temp comes down. You can't "see" condensation. If you see droplets or "gobs" in the fluid - it could be somebody added - or changed the fluid to a synthetic. they will not mix and synthetic brake fluid will NOT absorb water (it remains in droplet form - and has a boiling point of 212 degrees). If that happened you should remove/disassemble the calipers and clean thouroughly and refill with fresh DOT 3 or 4 fluid.
2007-06-23 07:55:22 · answer #3 · answered by Thomas E 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Generally, you run plastic tubing from the brake line to a cup of brake fluid. You work the brake lever, squeezing out the old brake fluid. Once that is done, you begin adding the factory recommended brake fluid to your master cylinder and begin working the brake lever. You want to get fluid in there, and remove the air. Once you get it in there, you crack the bleeder valve slightly and work the air out, adding fluid until you get resistance on the lever that's not spongy. Once the brakes feel right, then close the bleeder valve tight, and you should be good to go.
The best thing to do, is get a manual. And you can see how it's done. If you've got contaminated brake fluid, you definitely need to get it out of there, or you risk brake failure.
2007-06-21 18:30:51 · answer #4 · answered by C J 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Same brake fluid.
Bleed the back, then the front, without allowing any air.
Use new brake fluid.
If you don't know how to do the process, google 'brake bleeding'.
2007-06-21 18:15:30 · answer #5 · answered by G L 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Daft thought, air lock on the fuel tank filler?
2016-03-19 04:16:29 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Use one of these to remove old fluid and bleed system with new fluid:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92474
2007-06-21 21:51:32 · answer #7 · answered by strech 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋