can someone help us with our 2006 Chevy Cobalt problems?

Question

We purchased out cobalt is july 06 new.OUr current problems are the car dieing when idling.This had happened over 60 times and the dealership doesn't know what to do because they can't reproduce it. They changed the gear shaft but that wasnt the problems.There is a loud rattling noise from our rear tires.Our weather temp can be as much as 20 degrees off! it will not go up and down at anytime during the 4 hours a night that i am driving it and i know that the temp. has changed.OUr new problem is the dash said that our door is open but all are tightly closed and the inside light will go on. While the car is off with the key in the ignition it will beep to no end.We will be driving and there are no alerts then we will get the door is open and all the lights come on. 1 mile down the road it all goes off.Our drivers seat seatbelt lock also will jam now and it has been cleaned and the dealership said that it is fine but you still can't push the red button down to get out of the seatbelt.

I called chevrolet and they want me to take it back to the dealership 1 more time so the customer service specialist can tell them what to do and see if they have done certain things to the car. She said if they can't answer her questions then they will do a buy back under the lemon laws. She was very apologetic and spent 1 1/2 hours on the phone with me going over all the times we have had the car in to get fixed. The car goes in on Friday so we will see what will happen. There is a electrical problem because our car alarm will go off at all times for no reason also now. This was my 2nd chevy loved my 03 Venture and 99 Jeep. Traded both in for a 06 uplander and a 06 cobalt and we hate both of them. NOthing but problems!

Answer 1

This bulletin is being revised to add models, model years and additional information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-04-012 (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System).


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When servicing a vehicle for any type of customer concern, the following steps are imperative. Inspect and ensure the integrity of all related wiring harness connectors. If the wiring harness connectors are not properly put together or engaged before they are locked together, numerous types of intermittent conditions may occur, which may include any of the symptoms listed above and possibly others.

The first step in any type of electrical diagnosis is a visual and physical inspection of the wiring harness connectors for integrity. Many times, the vehicle may be repaired just by disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors. As with all repairs to wiring harness connectors and terminals, a pull test of the terminals within the connector should be performed. A pull test is performed by inserting the proper size terminal test tool (not a paper clip) into the terminal to determine whether or not the terminal is making good contact, or whether the terminal has been damaged from the prior improper connection or lack of connection.

Notice: Most terminals used in current module connectors (ECM, BCM, EBTCM and the like) are small 0.64 mm sq. terminals and can be damaged by probing with the wrong tool.

The J 35616-64A or B probe has been designed for these terminals that may be both a round or square design.

For example, if the Connector C2 of the engine wiring harness to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), for the 2.2L equipped Cavalier or Sunfire is not properly seated into the PCM:

• The cam lock lever may close, however improperly.

• The cam lock lever may even snap out of position.

• The vehicle may have an intermittent condition with any one of the components which are controlled or monitored by the PCM.

THE CAM LOCK LEVER IS DESIGNED TO PULL (OR ASSIST) THE CONNECTOR INTO ITS FINAL POSITION ONCE IT HAS BEEN PRESSED STRAIGHT INTO THE PCM HEADER PAST THE INITIAL DETENT, ALLOWING THE LEVER TO BE MOVED INTO THE LOCKED POSITION. It is not only a retainer but an assist during the connection process . When the wiring harness connector is properly connected to the PCM, a snap will be heard when the connector is in position to be fully seated. The cam lock lever may then be closed. The cam lock lever will then do its designated job as both an assist and ensuring the connector does not come apart due to vibration or other types of conditions found in vehicles as they travel down the highway.

Remember, if a terminal (metal) or the connector (plastic) is damaged, they should be replaced. DO NOT replace the complete wiring harness assembly.

Answer 2

Wow, I agree. it's hard to give meaningful advice on this. I've got an 2006 Cobalt LT that I got new, and I haven't had ANY of the problems that you're describing at all. I've got a little over 12,000 miles on it now. My on board dash computer & lights work fine. The only issue I had with it was the key would get stuck in the ignition & I couldn't get it out. That was quickly fixed under the warrenty with less than a week of down time. You should look into the lemon law on this, it sound like your car picked up a wild pack of gremlins on it's way off the lot. So far my cobalt has been a fine running car. I have yet to get the 36 MPG they claim it has, but it's a respectable 28 MPG unless I totally baby it.

I hope this helps.

Answer 3

It's hard to give a meaningful advice - there are way too many possible reasons for that. Good news is sooner or later the problem will become permanent, and the dealer will have no choice other than fixing it. What I would think about if I were you is what are gonna do when it runs (or rather rattles) out of warranty? I - if I were you - would also think twice before buying another chevy or suchlike.

Answer 4

you are doing the right thing, just keep good documentation of all the times you have taken it in, who you talked with, how they acted, anything that may steer the c/s rep your way. they may make a suggestion as to something else to try, just go along with it expreess you dissatisfaction and how much its been a burden bringing it in, arranging rides, and relay the fact that they still are wanting a payment made when its in the shop and you cant use it.

Answer 5

The problem is the tech needs to talk to kdiesel sounds like more than one head is needed for this one. With out being able to check it by computer i would say PCM. New stuff has wierd problems sometimes that don't make any sense.

Answer 6

Lemon law is three tries and you are out, keep taking it back keep track and document what, where, and when these things happened, then demand a new car

Answer 7

the worst problems our dealership see's involves aftermarket accesories such as stereo systems,remote starts,aftermarket power sunroofs,if you don't have ant of these accesories, iwould suggest leaving it for your dealer to fix and don't bug him to much.these problems are HARD to find,if it is more than a couple weeks though,I would pursue the GM buyback option,or lemon law.

Answer 8

If the dealer ship cant fix it in 3 attempts and has had reasonable access to the vehicle, they will have to buy it back!

Answer 9

call the LORDSTOWN PLANT in Ohio, they are the ones who make the car and complain to them about it and they might help you resolve the problems with it, they don't like to have customers complaining about their cars, I think GM Lordstown assembly has a website you can get a phone # from.

Answer 10

if you bought it new file it under the lemon law ,and get a new one